Hi all,

 

The sagas continue..

 

After sorting out all the corroded relays in the drivers footwell fusebox and not using the car for a few weeks, the drivers window now doesn't open. Passenger opens/closes fine.

 

The window switch works, and I've read the posts about the amplifier/relay black box at the bottom right of the door panel. I have the exact same sound as the vid here. No motors turning or grinding.

 

So I can hear the contacts clicking when I press the up/down switch, and can see them clicking now I've taken the black cover off.

 

I didn't see any broken solder contacts (pic below), but I resoldered and cleaned up all the connections at the pin connector, and most others, however I still have the problem.

 

Could be there something else wrong with the unit besides the solder? Have I messed up something in the drivers footwell fusebox? Could the motor have died with no drive instantly? Or any other electrical connections known to cause problems hahah.

 

Any help appreciated!

 

Ugh, the wires have been tampered with!

 

Am I right in saying that from the relay/amplifier/black box unit, two wires should go to the window regulator motor itself? Thick green, and thick blue/white?

 

The green on mine is snipped. The relay/black box end connects to a thick yellow/blue which goes into the car. And the thick green end that comes from the motor connects to a thick green/black, which likewise goes into the car. Haven't been able to find where they go.

 

Likewise with the switch loom. The large white/black wire at the switch end is connected to a thick yellow wire that goes into the car. And the other end of the snipped white/black connects to a thick green wire, which again goes into the car.

 

I'm hoping to magically find a relay of some sort these all connect to for an unknown reason. Only thing I can think of is if he's done this for some kind of switch for the immobiliser he fitted. Just gotta find out what the wires are and where they go!

 

If the wires are the problem..

This is the FSM wiring diagram for the power windows, so you can trace the wires:

 

Am I right in saying that from the relay/amplifier/black box unit, two wires should go to the window regulator motor itself? Thick green, and thick blue/white?

 

The green on mine is snipped. The relay/black box end connects to a thick yellow/blue which goes into the car. And the thick green end that comes from the motor connects to a thick green/black, which likewise goes into the car. Haven't been able to find where they go.

 

Likewise with the switch loom. The large white/black wire at the switch end is connected to a thick yellow wire that goes into the car. And the other end of the snipped white/black connects to a thick green wire, which again goes into the car.

 

Later i'll look into this, my door card is off and i'll see if I can shed some light for you.

This is an aftermarket issue as you have like mine some sort of window closure linked to an alarm, should still work though with manual control.

 

Look at the pics of mine below, I've got blue and brown going into the car, aftermarket colour/wiring of course.

 

 

Yep mine looks just like that!

 

I'll check out all my alarm wires incase I did something when I had the box off.

 

Cheers for wiring diagram too Andrew.

 

With the blue/white and green wires going to the motor, am I right in saying if I apply a 12V circuit directly to the connector pins (from a spare battery), the motor should start?

With the blue/white and green wires going to the motor, am I right in saying if I apply a 12V circuit directly to the connector pins (from a spare battery), the motor should start?

 

Yes - put a fuse in the spare battery circuit to be on the safe side when testing.

Motor is good. Not found a wiring issue so far, tryna source a new amplifier isn't as easy as I thought haha