Hazard switch lamp

Part required is a 3mm LES, I got mine from eBay.

First you will need to remove the hazard switch from the air con pod. This is easy enough, remove the button by slipping a small blade screwdriver down the sides of the nob and ease the nob up.

Now you successfully tugged your nob off you need to remove the pod face. Undo the two screws on the underside of the pod and ease the face off the pod.

Unscrew the hazard switches two retaining screws, move the switch to gain access to the back and release the wiring harness.

You now have the switch removed and need to split it to get to the grey lamp holder. Slide your small blade screwdriver down the side retaining clip and gently separate the unit. NOTE THAT THE SWITCH IS SPRING LOADED AND WILL FALL APPART BUT DONT PANIC. You now have three parts to the switch plus the grey rubber lamp holder.

Pull the grey lamp holder out of its retaining pins and remove the lamp and wire.

The LEDs that I found have a resistor in line which will not go down the grey lamp holder enough for the LED to sit at the correct height. I decided to snip about 10mm off the holder so the LED sat nicely. You couldn’t have done this with the old filament lamp as the wires were not insulated, the LEDs are at the lamp and need to remain so where exposed.

To prep the LED you will need to start to remove the insulation on the tails of the LED. (You need to do this before running the wire through the holder as you’ll likely pull the wire out the LED if you try to do this when fitted in the holder.)

With around 50mm of wire exposed spin the cable to keep the strands tight, this is important later. REMEMBER TO KEEP WIRE THAT IS EXPOSED AT THE TOP OF THE HOLDER INSULATED.

Now feed the black wire down one side of the holder and the red down the other side. Pull and push the LED and resistor so the lamp is near enough the same height as the original was.

With the exposed wire hanging out the bottom of the holder you now need to thread the wire correctly so it doesn’t slip out when fitted. Remove the remaining red and black insulation round the wire remembering to twist the wire to keep it tight.

Push the wire back through the larger hole on the side that the wire came from. Pull the wire tight before moving to the next stage.

Now push the wires down the small holes returning it back to the base of the holder.

Now move the wire to the side and trim tight to the holder.

Repeat this with the second line of wire.

Place the grey holder back in its retaining clip being sure that the resistor is on the left side as shown.

Now you need to put the three parts of the switch back together.

The small part has two raised lumps that need to be seated in the main switch housing. Push the switch in slightly and drop the small part onto its seats. Releasing the switch should hold the smaller part in place and now you should clip the cover on. This part is a bit fiddly but keep calm and you’ll nail it.

Now with the switch in one piece plug it back into the harness and test. If it all works then rebuild the pod in reverse of dismantling, BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN ANY SCREWS ON THE POD.

If I didn’t work make sure your resistor is on the correct side, your instrument dimmer isn’t turned down (These LEDs might not like to be dimmed) and if it’s still not working there’s a chance you’ve pulled the wire out the LED or the LED was faulty.

I hope this helps guys. Sorry if it goes on a bit, mods feel free to edit if required.

Chris.