Hi everyone :),

 

My name is Tom, I'm looking at buying my first 300zx in the few months, ideally I'd like to get a bone stock z. I've done my homework on what to look for when buying a z, just few questions what people recommend is a price wise on buying a 300.

 

And what are zs like to live with?

Is there over hints and tips or things to advod when viewing?

 

Cheers tom.

Hi Tom.

 

Prices for a reasonable one start at around £4k up to £9kish for great condition cars. Manuals tend to have a higher price than the autos.

 

Generally if kept in good mechanical condition they are pretty reliable. There are some parts that go bad, but generally you should have a problem.

 

When viewing first of all look out for rust. in the sills, in the rear arches, in the rear wheel well, front crossmember etc. :lol:

Like any car, I always look at the service history. It gives me an indication of its use.

My service history is all in Japanise!

Imported 300zx TT 91 four years ago!

All service history is from me.

Gazwas is a reliable seller.

By one off a forum member.

Or take a forum member to a z you want to look at & buy.

Good look with your search.

Welcome to the club Tom and what's your budget?

Hi gaz, I'm looking round 4-5k

 

Also I forgot to ask, this is going to sound silly but is the any different between the SWB and the LWB as in driving and handling and parking differents (yes I know swb don't have any rear sides and are smaller )

What do you mean SWB doesnt have any rear sides?

 

The SWB is rarer and tend to demand a premium. They tend to have tighter cornering and better weight distribution (as the fuel tank is within the wheelbase) so is generally the choice for track focused cars.

Sorry that was meant to be rear seats but stupid auto correct

Sorry that was meant to be rear seats but stupid auto correct

Oh yeah, so fuel tank is moved where the rear seats were, and so the fuel cap is in front of the wheels. The roof and tailgate slopes steeper and has a more stubby rear. About 6 inches shorter overall. Some other small differences also.

This is worth a read, a few tips on both selling and buying a 300zx here > > >

 

http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzs.html

 

Jeff

 

Edited January 2, 20187 yr by JeffTT

I always do a MOT history check too. Can give you some idea what's been going on with the car in the past etc

Hi mate, welcome to the club.

 

In my limited experience, SWB cars spin up a bit easier. But these cars can be modified to be anything you want.

 

Mine had a rust problem. And has had a number of silly electrical niggles and boost/vac leaks, these have made it run a bit roughly, but it has never not worked/run.

 

It isn't that thirsty really. You can use the same fuel and have a far less capable car, e.g. mx5.

 

Any car you find, put it up on here and we can all look over it with you.

Thanks you everyone for all of your help and answering questions, which probably get asked all the time, I really appreciate it.

Not a bother, post some cars you're looking at and we can give you a crash course in zed shopping :)

The SWB is rarer and tend to demand a premium. They tend to have tighter cornering and better weight distribution (as the fuel tank is within the wheelbase) so is generally the choice for track focused cars.

 

Weight distribution for 2+0 (SWB) is 55:45 F/R and for 2+2 (LWB) is 53:47 F/R.

Weight distribution for 2+0 (SWB) is 55:45 F/R and for 2+2 (LWB) is 53:47 F/R.

Maybe that was the wrong word. More where the weight is making the lwb more prone to oversteer no?

 

Nice info though :)

There are some parts that go bad, but generally you should have a problem.

 

Ooooops.. :lol::lol:

Hi Tom.

There are some parts that go bad, but generally you should have a problem.

 

. :lol:

 

im guessing is that's meant to say you shouldn't have a problem lol ?

Welcome tom lots of advice and help here thats our whole reason for being so to speak. Good luck with your search but take your time and look at as many as you can. However if you want a SWB non turbo then slick pete has a good one for sale at a very reasonable 3k

Edited January 3, 20187 yr by Iangreenfield

ok thank you for the advice =]

im guessing is that's meant to say you shouldn't have a problem lol ?

Oh yeah lol.

 

I'm thinking about MAFs and early ptus and things can go bad, sometimes early injectors. But on the whole they don't tend to break down of running right in the first place

i was looking at getting a 1995 jap import targa top facelift 300zx but then i saw it was a non-turbo =[

I personally wouldn't worry about year too much, condition is more important.

 

And as much as it is possible to turbo an na, it is a huge amount of work and not really worth it.

 

Whereas a lot of people put manual boxes into automatics and by all accounts isn't that hard. I haven't done it myself, but my car is an auto to manual conversion car.

 

You actually get some arguable benefits with that set up, smaller turbos, different cam profiles.

I personally wouldn't worry about year too much, condition is more important.

 

And as much as it is possible to turbo an na, it is a huge amount of work and not really worth it.

 

Whereas a lot of people put manual boxes into automatics and by all accounts isn't that hard. I haven't done it myself, but my car is an auto to manual conversion car.

 

You actually get some arguable benefits with that set up, smaller turbos, different cam profiles.

 

yer id like to do a turbo swap but just seems a lot of hassle , id like a stock factory M/T TT ,ive found a coule of zx but there really up north and its about 4-5 hour drive.

I personally wouldn't worry about year too much, condition is more important.

 

 

^^^this!

 

Condition condition condition. Z32s, when they start to rust, rust fast and they have quite a complicated panel assembly where the rust does break out, so quality repair is never cheap.

 

Take your time and never go for the first car you look at unless it's obviously a minter. Mint cars are hard to find as they're usually owned, a fresh import is always your best bet if you can't quite find what you're looking for. Avoid anything with a bodykit/awful paint or unappealing custom interiors. Mechanical upgrades are great if quality parts have been used, quite often (unless it's a fresh import), that's not the case. There's still a lot of rotten or bodged Z32s out there although these numbers are falling thankfully, but so too is what's on offer.

 

Just take your time and don't rush, you will eventually find what you're looking for.

Avoid anything with a bodykit

 

i can a sure you that i wont got anywhere near a 300 with a bodykit