Hiya guys think my maf has gone and not liking the selection on eBay right now. Anyone got a good one they're willing to part with?

 

Thank

I have one if you want to test, but it's not for sale

Hiya guys think my maf has gone and not liking the selection on eBay right now. Anyone got a good one they're willing to part with?

 

Thank

 

What makes you think the maf is at fault? your previous post mentions a whole bank of cylinders playing up, did you compression check that side yet? easiest way to check if maf or and air leaks are the problem is to run the engine with the maf\disconnected and if there is a significant improvement then it could be the maf or air leaks.

 

Jeff

Had check for air leaks with a tester and its all good.and also removed all the timing covers and checked the timing its spot on. My mates compression tester was too short :glare: currently thinking maf or cas. My idle timing is all over the place, up to 43 at idle. Pretty sure that's not normal

Had check for air leaks with a tester and its all good.and also removed all the timing covers and checked the timing its spot on. My mates compression tester was too short :glare: currently thinking maf or cas. My idle timing is all over the place, up to 43 at idle. Pretty sure that's not normal

 

Checked left hand cam timing too? so you removed the two metal water pipes to get access to remove the left cam cover ? ok if you did, strange for one side of the engine to be effected by the maf when both sides share the same manifold ?? if you have a screen shot of the diagnostic when at idle, one thing that comes to mind is the throttle position sensor, this can cause all sorts of running issues,especially of the hard idle switch is activating at the wrong time, saying that again this would effect the whole engine not one side, its is possible you have more than one problem that is compounding finding any one of them.

 

 

 

 

Here is a tech thread to basic belt timing I did some years back > http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt&highlight=cambelt

 

 

Did you have the top of the engine at least this stripped???

 

 

 

Also Just check the ecu plug is firmly home as the can bend out of shape sometimes and create bad connections at the point where the injector outputs are, it is always good to eliminate as much as possible before spending money.

 

 

 

The type of compression tester you need is as below, cheap on e-bay, available at Halfords but dearer, local motor factors be a good place to try.

 

Jeff

 

 

Jeff

Edited January 28, 20179 yr by JeffTT

This is a screenshot from cold. Iv got both upper timing covers off left and right. All marks align

 

Ok, need a screen shot once the engine is up to temp as a comparison, and is the egr valve still active / connected?

 

Jeff

so wen for a drive to warm it up and this is what its saying problem seems to go away when the engine is under load. also brought a compression tester that'll be with me next week with any luck xD

 

thanks

 

If you blip the throttle does the timing wander all over the place ? ive had several cars now with worn cas drives in the exhaust camshaft,its easy to see with a strobe

so wen for a drive to warm it up and this is what its saying problem seems to go away when the engine is under load. also brought a compression tester that'll be with me next week with any luck xD

 

thanks

 

 

Not an awful lot wrong with the screen shot when warm, the timing is high but guessing it's an auto to manual conversion and neutral switch not connected. Tps and hard idle looks OK as does the the all important maf signal.

 

 

Odd the egr valve is showing active on a warm engine, be inclined to disconnect the vacuum pipe to that. Also the 02 sensors look to be giving bad readings, do not underestimate bad readings from faulty 02 sensors, it's actually better to have them unplugged than giving bad signals, could be that simple.

 

Jeff

Edited January 29, 20179 yr by JeffTT

Thanks very much Jeff I'll give it a go tomorrow. Also gunna crack the timing light out. Yes you're right its a manual conversion, and also the egr has been removed and blanked off. Didn't get to do anything to it today thanks to the rain.... D:

well this morning i tried the o2 sensors and it will not rev over 2500rpm like its hitting a rev limiter even when i plug the o2 sensor back in its still doing it

now have an air flow meter code on ecu and it idles like a champ now so maybe it was on its way out and now its dead?

well this morning i tried the o2 sensors and it will not rev over 2500rpm like its hitting a rev limiter even when i plug the o2 sensor back in its still doing it

 

Ok you say disconnected 02 sensors and will not rev, I guess you mean the maf you disconnected, as that will incur a code and will have a 2.5k rev limit that is as it should be, what I meant by by disconnecting it is to see if it idled better with it disconnected, revving it up past 2.5k will as you have seen incur the rev limit, its a get you home limp mode, so have you disconnected the 02 sensors also or not,?

 

 

now have an air flow meter code on ecu and it idles like a champ now so maybe it was on its way out and now its dead?

 

Idles like a champ? you mean better? if so it could of just been the connection, or if you did disconnect the 02 sensors could be that, or in fact do you mean with the maf disconnected it idles better, need clarification .

 

You can reset the maf code.

 

Jeff

i went out and disconnected the o2 sensors. didnt even touch the maf. car would not rev over 2500rpm. plugged them back in and still wont rev. plugged the laptop in to see what was going on and it was giving me the maf code (i had not touched the maf) i had a quick play with the plug to check and and still got the code. checked voltage on pin B 0.02v with the ignition on.

 

when letting it sit at idle with this fault it is idling just like it was a few weeks ago. no misfire and nice and smooth..

i went out and disconnected the o2 sensors. didnt even touch the maf. car would not rev over 2500rpm. plugged them back in and still wont rev. plugged the laptop in to see what was going on and it was giving me the maf code (i had not touched the maf) i had a quick play with the plug to check and and still got the code. checked voltage on pin B 0.02v with the ignition on.

 

when letting it sit at idle with this fault it is idling just like it was a few weeks ago. no misfire and nice and smooth..

 

Well that is weird your screen shot from yesterday shows the maf working, the code would suggest either a disconnected maf or a failed one ( open circuit ) and or wiring / connection issue, looking more like major fault as maf now with some smaller issues you have slowly resolved.

 

Jeff

Well I have sinned! in my hast I brought what I was hoping would be my best option for a maf at short notice (let's not go into details I'm a fool) anyway with said abomination plugged in. Ideal is fine and revs ok till about 3000ish or higher if I go slowly. It won't boost either. Ergantly need a real working maf if anyone has one??

Ive got one buddy

Ohhh nice wanna text me mate? Need one asap xD driving to stoke Monday xD 07947799519

You coming to the Ace cafe meet Jay?

You coming to the Ace cafe meet Jay?

 

When and where is it mate?/

When and where is it mate?/

11th Feb London ace cafe

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=186644

Messaged

well iv now got 3 maf's thanks to buying one from Iangreenfield :3 and winning 2 on ebay for £17 :D one of which iv fitted and is working, car now is back fighting fit! so happy this morning.

 

Also found this little issue of an air leak on the passenger side turbo the other night that must have been like it since my manual conversion..... but with all the little faults fixed old smokey seems to be running better than ever :D

 

Thanks for all the help guys especially Jeff's wisdom. think ill get a set of o2 sensors just for good measure when i change my leaking exhaust too xD

 

thanks for all your help jeff

You have a txt buddy