I have a spare sub frame that I'm going to get powder coated and swap the bushes out for new Poly ones. Looking at the various "How to's" on the subject. would those of you who have done this recommend getting the new poly bushes that come with the outer sleeve, like these form CZP?

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-subframe-sleeve-kit-w-energy-suspension-bushings-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32-55400-74102_p_3146.php

 

It sounds like the worst part is actually cleaning the left over rubber off the outer sleeve, once the inner sleeve and rubber goo has been removed. (I was going to burn them out, as per the many videos on the net show)

 

As an aside, has anyone here actually fitted SPL solid mounts on the sub frame or diff? If so how bad is the ride/noise?

 

All advice welcome, Thanks

Brings back memories.

I too had to replace all of my rear brake lines not to long ago.

 

As Jimmer says, a lot easier with the sub frame out of the way.

 

I wouldn't want to attempt the brake lines, with the subframe in situ, if would be more of a faff. Dropping the subframe wasn't as bad as thought it might be.

 

Don't suppose you remember what diameter pipe you bought do you?

Old subframe stripped of everything

 

Now just a pile of parts to start cleaning up, painting and re-bushing

Out of curiosity was there oil in the diff cooler lines you cut? What condition is the diff oil cooler and motor?

Out of curiosity was there oil in the diff cooler lines you cut? What condition is the diff oil cooler and motor?

 

No oil in either on the lines. The oil cooler isn't to bad, can't remember the motor, but I will get some photos for you.

 

Don't suppose you remember what diameter pipe you bought do you?

 

All I can remember is that I was well advised to use Kunifer pipe, better quality and durability I believe.

I'll see if I can find an off cut and measure it.

One thing I do remember, when joining the repair pipework to the existing steel pipework my cheep flaring tool did struggle a bit.

I wouldn't want to attempt the brake lines, with the subframe in situ, if would be more of a faff. Dropping the subframe wasn't as bad as thought it might be.

 

Don't suppose you remember what diameter pipe you bought do you?

 

3/16 common size copper brake pipe,readily available from Euro car parts or GSF along with new unions.

3/16 common size copper brake pipe,readily available from Euro car parts or GSF along with new unions.

 

Just checked an off cut, as Jimmer said, 3/16.

Definitely would recommend the Kunifer grade of material mind.

Thanks for taking the time to check the pipe diameter Redwine300.

 

Jim many thanks for the link and info on the pile flaring tool, much appreciated.

 

I will make sure a post up the pictures once I get to replacing the brake lines.

Hi

I see your going to powder coat the subframe im thinking of doing that too but also thought of using something like por 15 or something from eastwood paints

what do other people think of powder coat verses special painted coatings?

Managed to get to spend sometime on the car yesterday, and finally get most of the rear suspension etc, bolted to the subframe. All of the OEM bushes have been replaced in the control arms, tension rod and hub knuckles, with Driftworks poly bushes. Whilst stripping the lower control arm, I installed new ball joints. I had to admit defeat on the ball joints, in the hub knuckle for the HICAS. After spending nearly 4hrs just on one of them, I gave up and took it to my local garage who pressed them out for £20 :yes:

 

The subframe bushes and diff bushes have been replaced with Energy Suspension units. They weren't that difficult to replace, just time consuming really, carefully, drilling cuttting and a bit of burning involved. Differential bushes being the easiest of the lot. The diff oil has been drained and I'm just awaiting the new Redline oil from Opie Oils. I also replaced the 2 mounting studs and nuts on the diff as the original items were heavily corroded.

 

The subframe was powder coated by a local firm. All of the other parts diff, arms etc, were cleaned up with a wire twisted/knotted wheel in the angle grinder. Hydrate 80 (a rust neutraliser) was then applied to everything, followed by zinc primer and 2 coats of POR 15. I gave the drive shafts a good clean plus coated them with Hydrate 80 again and POR 15, for good measure. I have new Driftworks lockout bar to fit and that is pretty much it. Now time to move onto the rear brakes lines........

 

.

 

Edited March 5, 20178 yr by bigh

The rear brake lines not looking good....

 

 

The rear brake lines not looking good....

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104764[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104765[/ATTACH]

 

Hi matey,

 

just done my brake lines using 3/16 kunifer pipe, I bought a kit from ebay that included a pipe cutter and flaring and bending tool tool similar to this

https://goo.gl/images/2iQFI5

on ebay from vintage warehouse 65

be sure to get the heavy duty flaring tool for the kunifer pipe

I also covered my pipe in a heat shrink material to give it the factory look, best way I found to bend the pipes was to have the original laid out and then start from one end

bending to match the old pipe but also cable tie the pipes together as you go along

have a look in my rust arch repair thread mate

Cheers hanks for the tip on the cable ties, I will give that a go on the remaining pipes. Already borrowed a similar tool for the pipe flaring, it's not to bad once you have done a couple. Hopefully finish the pipes this weekend, just need a couple of coats of Hydrate 80 and sealer then should be good to steady re assembling everything.