Been told at mot I need to reply all the brake pipes. So I've ordered a couple of reels of kunifier brake pipe. What I was wondering though...

 

Do you use this for the pipes the run the length I the car? If not, where do I get those from?

Come on lads. Looking at the names who looked at this, someone knows

I found this and he is quite helpful and informative........

I've watched a few of his videos. I just need to know the lines under the car are the same. So they aren't steel or anything specific

Copper brake pipe is easier to work with both bending and installing, a little extra care is required when making the ends in the small crimping tool though.

 

Access is s little tight and a good idea to draw a line by line sketch showing where all the pipes go, the ABS unit been in the boot is why all the pipes terminate there, straight forward job which of course is easier on a 2 post ramp but if you get back end up high and secure with axle stands, remove the rear exhaust boxes and both rear wheels its not too bad.

 

 

Jeff

I have access to a 4 poster. So it's the same lines throughout then? I take to the lines at the back will be a bit of a pig?

Did that job myself recently. Access is difficult, but I had the subframe out for other work so it was easy for me. At least half of the brackets that hold the pipes in place were mashed by the end of it.

 

5 pipes at the rear just in front/above the fuel tank.

 

*Three down the full length of the offside (one for front offside wheel, one from brake booster/reservoir, and a return to brake booster/reservoir)

*One down the full length of the nearside (front nearside wheel)

*One short pipe connecting to a splitter, with one pipe then going to rear nearside, and one pipe going to rear offside

 

You can buy joiners so you wont need to replace them the complete length of the car Lee.Usually the ones under the floor are in good condition up to the point they meet the rear subframe.

Did that job myself recently. Access is difficult, but I had the subframe out for other work so it was easy for me. At least half of the brackets that hold the pipes in place were mashed by the end of it.

 

5 pipes at the rear just in front/above the fuel tank.

 

*Three down the full length of the offside (one for front offside wheel, one from brake booster/reservoir, and a return to brake booster/reservoir)

*One down the full length of the nearside (front nearside wheel)

*One short pipe connecting to a splitter, with one pipe then going to rear nearside, and one pipe going to rear offside

 

 

Thanks mate

You can buy joiners so you wont need to replace them the complete length of the car Lee.Usually the ones under the floor are in good condition up to the point they meet the rear subframe.

 

I'll have a proper look when I'm next under the car as the ramp as bust at the minute sadly. Is it all the same line though if I do need to replace

I used copper pipes for all of mine, but did one end of the car at a time.

 

*Jacked up the rear with subframe off etc.

*Replaced all rear wheel pipes (ABS actuator to splitter; Splitter to offside wheel; Splitter to nearside wheel - 3 in total)

*Cut and replaced the other 4 pipes (front two wheels and two for BB/reservoir), but with their length finishing midway along the length of the car, disconnected at the front end

*Lowered, jacked up the front, wheels off

*Cut and replaced the 4 pipes at the front end of the car, connecting them to their correct new pipe midway along the car, if that makes sense

 

Not the most ideal fix in terms of pressure loss/leaks/professional finish, but it worked for me since I couldn't get the front of the car up at the same time.

 

Also the diagram shows where the joiner/splitters are, represented by the white blocks. Ideally don't want more joins than that, since they are there for a reason for ease of brake pipe replacement. But I ended up with two more due to the car being pinned up against my house wall. Had no issues though. Hope this spiel helps