Hey,

 

All my brake pipes are corroded to hell and leaking (non runner project car). I've replaced a lot of brake pipes before no problem, but I'm wondering if anyone has some advice/opinions if they have had it done? I have a pipeline diagram and have a pretty good idea of whats going on.

 

As far as the actual connections at the rear go though, the corroded nuts and awkward access don't look too good.

 

I'm wondering if anyone has actually rerouted their new pipes instead? I.e. drilling holes at either side of the boot for the new pipes to be sized and fitted easily.

 

My main worry is the rear pipes, as they don't have their individual pipes from the ABS actuator. Instead they share one pipe which has a splitter. I wouldn't want to create a braking imbalance from pressure travel distance.

 

Cheers

Its a big job to do it right as you need to drop the exhausts, diff. prop and rear drive parts. But worth doing right cozza.

Normally when i do this on customers cars .. i find dropping the sub frame as a whole far more better ... that way you have all the room you need and you can do a Nice job of routing them

 

Heres one i did few weeks bk

Edited December 29, 20159 yr by MarkDerby

Would give me a good excuse to replace all the cracking rubber with polybushes I guess. And the diff oil cooler pipes.

 

The diagram is great Mark thanks.

 

Is this doable with the rear wheels on ramps?

As Mark said, best with the rear sub-frame out.

When I did mine, I used a pair of strong axle stands at the rear designated lifting points.

Makes the job so much easier all round.

When I say wheels on I of course don't mean taking the full frame out. But given the weak jacking points at the skirts I need other strong points. I've seen people use the diff, but can't do that here obviously. Where about did you use redwine300?

Would give me a good excuse to replace all the cracking rubber with polybushes I guess. And the diff oil cooler pipes.

 

The diagram is great Mark thanks.

 

Is this doable with the rear wheels on ramps?

 

 

 

no mate you will need to support the car from the Rear Jacking points ..

 

Wheels off

Rear section of exhaust off

Unbolt Drive shaft from diff

Unbolt Calipers from Hubs

Unbolt Shocks

Unplug Hicas/Diff/ABS wires

Disconnect the Hicas Pipes from Top Joint ( if u have it on car still )

 

using a Jack .. Jack up on to the Diff its self plus using some wood to support it all

Undo the 4 Subframe Mount points .. Lower it all with the jack

you will need to Move the shocks around a little as they can catch the upper arms

once its on the floor or lowest point .. pull it out with the jack

Seems fairly straight forward,

 

Jacking should be fine actually. The sills are rotten but the actual jacking point seems solid.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it

Please don't support the rear of the car on the sills or jacking points, they are just not strong enough.

I will dig out some pictures of how I supported mine.

Please see below.

Edited December 29, 20159 yr by redwine300

Above is a close up of one of the two designated rear lifting/support points.

Just inboard of the rear sills around the targa drain points.

Hidden by the block of wood is an oval hole for reference.

that is the rear proper jacking point on the zed m8 ... i wasnt talking about the Sill point

My reply was to Cozza Mark. :lol::lol:

My reply was to Cozza Mark. :lol::lol:

 

:)

Yeep thats the bit I saw earlier and thought looked solid. Will have a few back up stands too. Won't be able to do it till the new year anyway.

 

Thanks for the help :)

Do yourself a favour Cozza and do it the 2015 way not the 1915 way, removing the rear sub frame jeez, what a long way to do it!! email me if you want for a break down on how to do it nice and easy. jeff@zedworld.co.uk

 

Jeff

lol funny guy . about the same length of time it tuck you do some of your prev customers jobs

lol funny guy . about the same length of time it tuck you do some of your prev customers jobs

 

Assume the guy is working from home not on a ramp and not with the benefit of full workshop tools so was giving DIY assistance nothing more..... strange why you feel it necessary to mention my previous customers?? and what the hell does "tuck" mean? did you mean "took" ? as it time taken?

 

Jeff

touchy ...... it was a typo .. :)

Personally, I did not find it that much trouble to take the rear subframe out, it was a learning experience and gave me the room to learn how to construct brake lines for the first time.

That said, I can see the advantages of just removing the diff etc', albeit restrictive.

I would add though, I think the primary objective is to help the original poster as opposed to the clash of the Titans. lol

Interesting thread. Thanks for the photos Mark.

 

Cozza let us know how you get on, looking to do this at some point myself.

Clash of the Titans for sure!

Apply heat or cold?

Black or white?

Left or Right!

Up or down!

Art:)

Interesting thread. Thanks for the photos Mark.

 

Cozza let us know how you get on, looking to do this at some point myself.

 

1h into the exhaust and I'm still stuck on one bolt. Just gonna saw the bugger off when the rain stops and go from there, will post any major updates

1h into the exhaust and I'm still stuck on one bolt. Just gonna saw the bugger off when the rain stops and go from there, will post any major updates

 

Lol, WD40 and some elbow grease should do it usually

 

I guess if they're scrap anyway might as well cut the bolts off.

Edited January 2, 20169 yr by Alic

Jeff's method would have worked but I then saw the state of the fuel pipe lines too and decided to just go for it.

 

Subframe with diff/shocks etc is almost ready to come off, but the diff is still stuck to the prop shaft. I've jacket the sub/diff back up for now to release stress, letting it settle with some WD40 at the moment. Any advice on where to lever/tap?

 

Also the front wasn't held on purely by the two bolts, there was another support that had to be removed, held to the car by two 14mm bolts. I'll get a pic if anyone wants to see what I mean, but 3 out of those 4 small bolts couldn't be saved. For those who Know what I mean, is it worth drilling them out and replacing or do they offer little support?

I think the primary objective is to help the original poster as opposed to the clash of the Titans. lol

 

Clash of the Titans for sure!

 

Zedworld V Automodz clash of the Titans your fooking joking lads surely ?:thumbdown: the guy was changing his nappy a few years ago on zeds !! when he has another 15 years working both continuously and exclusively on zeds alone with 2k + regular customers then maybe but in the meantime avoid drawing comparisons please its offensive .... jeez sometimes !! :smash:

 

Jeff

Edited January 4, 20169 yr by JeffTT

may be so ... but us spring chickens are with the time and the know ... unlike some that still work like its 1950's