Car is now off the road till the weather improves in March/April.

 

I'm no mechanic but do like to play around and sort what I can.

 

I hate how cluttered the Zed engine bay is know guys delete certain things.

 

Just now I'm trying to get the air regulator off and it's just a pain, so would like to delete what I can to make things less cluttered and easier to access.

 

What would you recommend deleting guys?

First things first i would m9ve the battery to the boot or somewhere else.

 

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Engine :)

All deleties are here http://www.twinturbo.info/63104/index.html but a lot of stuff you can relocate

The simple, easy stuff first would be good for me :)

All of it

 

 

It's surprisingly easy to work on now, the only pain is the balance bar- this may go at some point

 

I recommend you start with deleting:

The aivs

Egr

Fuel pressure boost unit

Water bypass

Ptu relocation

 

Further to that you can

 

Relocate battery

Relocate fuse box

Relocate pas reservoir

Delete hicas

Wire tuck

Boost solenoids

Fuel damper

 

There are a few more but I can remember

 

That lot will keep you busy over the winter

Did I mention I'm no mechanic lol, that engine bay looks super smooth, I'm a long way from there though lol.

That is super smooth and quite a dedicated long process to get that result.

 

If I was you I'd start with the AIV, Carbon canister and PRV. That will remove a large chunk of crap that sits up by the battery and BMC, removing this stuff alone makes life a lot less complex. If your feel capable I'd remove the plenum and do the coolant bypass and EGR. While your back there is replace the hoses from the turbo coolant lines, check the hard tree or delete it as well. That assembly gets neglected and fails and leaks. All good future proofing.

 

I have quite a few deletes on mine but it's a case of function rather than the look. For that reason Ive retained the factory firebox location and PS resivoir. They are easily serviceable here, just by lifting the bonnet. My battery may end up in the boot but for the access it grants the two minutes to remove it, which should happen when your working on the car anyway it's not much help.

When I did my tidy up, I bought 6 new injectors and a new loom. The injectors weren't hard once I was that deep, I didn't need to worry about the crunchy loom as I pulled it about. The new one was neater, more flexible, not really hard to wire up either.

 

Just a bit tricky to get through the firewall.

 

Get the plenum off and get a bin ready.

Shame as the plenum was off recently when the injectors where upgraded to 555s.

 

Not by me though that was at a garage, wish I had planned this then and life would be much easier.

 

Is it ok to delete the air regulator?

I don't think so, Jaffa has done it but I think it's a lot of effort to make it work.

 

I left my pcv on too, with new SFS hoses and vlaves. Didn't fancy fitting a catch can and thought a bit of oil on and old engine piston rings may be a good thing.

I just dis-connected the air regulator and capped the hose ends.

 

My car started and idled so much better without it, looks easy enough to delete, just remove it and cap a few ends?

I thought about doing this and I might do in future, as I'm sure you have done you need to cap the balance bar and the t on the air valve. I think it's quite a popular mod on 240sx's etc

 

I don't think it's really needed in our climate plus the air valve will deal with the target idle speed to a large extent

I thought about doing this and I might do in future, as I'm sure you have done you need to cap the balance bar and the t on the air valve. I think it's quite a popular mod on 240sx's etc

 

I don't think it's really needed in our climate plus the air valve will deal with the target idle speed to a large extent

 

 

Funny you mention the t on the air valve, I have capped off the side with the air regulator.

 

What about the other side of the t, can that hose/brackets/etc also be removed and capped or is that 100% required for the idle valve to function?

All of it

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]91663[/ATTACH]

 

It's surprisingly easy to work on now, the only pain is the balance bar- this may go at some point

 

I recommend you start with deleting:

The aivs

Egr

Fuel pressure boost unit

Water bypass

Ptu relocation

 

Further to that you can

 

Relocate battery

Relocate fuse box

Relocate pas reservoir

Delete hicas

Wire tuck

Boost solenoids

Fuel damper

 

There are a few more but I can remember

 

That lot will keep you busy over the winter

 

 

The more I look at that white engine bay, the more I want my car to look like that :)

 

Shame there are not many 300zx gurus nearby to help, every car club I've been a member of it's always the same, you can count the Scottish members almost on one hand.

Funny you mention the t on the air valve, I have capped off the side with the air regulator.

 

What about the other side of the t, can that hose/brackets/etc also be removed and capped or is that 100% required for the idle valve to function?

 

The other side is needed. The air is feed in here, through the valve and directly into the plenum. The other route in is the to also take this air in from the t to the air regulator and then into the balance bar. The feed for both of these (into the t) comes from the turbo inlet hose, it's metered air but from before the throttle and turbo.

Turns out either it didn't have AIVs or they have been removed, the PRVR thing is also already removed.

 

I have now removed the air regulator.

 

I've got the front bumper off checking some stuff, I see my car still has the auto box cooler at the front, as it's been convereted to a manual I would assume this can be safely removed?

You could always delete the decat downpipes and sell them to me LOL. I'm based near Slamannan

Turns out either it didn't have AIVs or they have been removed, the PRVR thing is also already removed.

 

I have now removed the air regulator.

 

I've got the front bumper off checking some stuff, I see my car still has the auto box cooler at the front, as it's been convereted to a manual I would assume this can be safely removed?

 

Are you sure it's the auto box cooler and not the oil cooler. As standard the box cooler is built into the radiator. Some people used to upgrade to the uk spec cooler for their oil then use the jap smaller one for the box. Take a pic