Does anyone know of where to get a proper dual air intake outside of the US? All the top Z tuning places sell them, but I can't find anywhere outside the US selling them.

Ideally somewhere in the UK..

 

Looking for either the Y shaped version or the JWT style (not joined) version. Would also consider 2nd hand pipework, but looking to get new filters.

Thanks in advance!

What's the "Y-shaped version"?

i have this doolz v2 system i recently purchased from gibster tt for £160 including delivery, so i want back what i paid its the full system which was just fitted then removed as dan gibstertt choose to go in a different direction. extension bars https://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=65

thay have being slightly modified to fit correctly, the other section is this https://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=65

How much of a dual intake you looking for? I may have a spare pair of blue silicone pipes I used to make my na's dual ram intake, no mafs, filters or selin though, just ended up with duplicate pipes.

 

They would join hard pipes if you have them, ( tt or na) but will only fit a turbo if you have a fmic. Can't find any pictures of it on my old tt

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by (adl) phoenix

This is the Y shape one I have seen:

 

 

I am really after a reliable set up as I am not after high hp's, just targetting a reliable 400ish bhp atf. Currently running a ZedWorld ecu + fujitsubo exhaust and decats and k&n filter. I would rather go down the route of increased/cooler air flow and remove more exhaust based restrictions, map/change ecu, better turbo's etc. and not stress the engine components too much to keep it as reliable as possible. Also, it's a long term investment! It appears from reading posts on his excellent forum and other less reliable internet forums that a dual intake and FMIC or uprated SMIC's are straight-forward ways to cool air and increase flow. So, this is the plan.

 

The Doolz system does not have good write ups - I found this: it makes sense but may be a system far more than my needs..

"The purpose of the Doolz is to allow the MAF sensor to meter air beyond the range that it was designed for. This is a relatively hard wall event. Once the airflow exceeds the MAF sensor's measurable range (at about 550-600RWHP high load) then the air volume is no longer metered accurately. This was the reason for the creation of the Doolz system in the first place. Its been marketed as much more then it was design for. Increasing the size of the intake and exhaust pipes would have a larger effect then going with the Doolz when you're engine is below this threshold.

 

The down side to using the Doolz intakes is related to just how it "fools" the ECU into seeing more air flow then the MAF sensor is seeing. The MAF sensor basically only meters half the air volume and the ECU is programmed to double what it sees. The result is half the resolution (increments between measured air compartments) and the potential for error based on the "ASSUMPTION" that both sides are pulling equal volumes of air.

 

Resolution effects how well the ECU can detect small changes in air flow. When at idle and low load cruise, a relatively small amount of air is being measured by the MAF sensor. Even less now that its halved by the Doolz. If resolution is low then it takes a larger amount of airflow change to be detected as a different amount. Remember that the ECU is digital and will meter the air in steps. The resolution is basically the width of the step. The greater the width between steps the more delta air is required to reach the next step.

 

Case two: If one filter path flows less air then the other then the assumption of equal half air measurements no longer exists. It can leave the engine running rich or lean depending on which path has a higher restriction. All it takes is one filter getting dirtier then the other or one filter seeing more air buffeting and the ECU no longer sees an accurate measurement of air flow and thus delivers an incorrect amount of fuel.

 

Don't get me wrong here. If the airflow requirements are being exceeded then a dual MAF sensor system will be your best solution. The Doolz would be a distant second option in my opinion. Its a primitive solution to a complex problem that’s been marketed as a simple HP mod for everyone."

 

Source: http://www.zcar.com/forum/12-90-96-tech-discussion-forum/290588-dual-intake-vs-doolz-intake.html

Any thoughts?

Greg

Have a read of read of this:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?161859-Anyone-running-a-Selin-twin-MAF-setup&p=1646460&viewfull=1#post1646460

 

and importantly the Greg Dupree post on TT.net contained within.

This is what I have on my zed I had it fully serviced last year and I bought two K&N air filters.

 

 

Ok, a dual intake splits the intake completely. Separate air flow to each turbo. The Y-shaped item you posted is a single intake. The picture in the post above is a single intake. It just has an adaptor with two filters.

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by Noz

Hi Noz, is it better than having two on or just the same as having one on and is there much benefits in having two than one filter?

Hi Noz, is it better than having two on or just the same as having one on and is there much benefits in having two than one filter?

 

Having two filters before one MAF is the same as having one large filter (with equal surface area) before one MAF.

So really having two filters hasn't made much difference so was it pointless of the previous owner before me doing that mod

This is the Y shape one I have seen:

 

 

I am really after a reliable set up as I am not after high hp's, just targetting a reliable 400ish bhp atf. Currently running a ZedWorld ecu + fujitsubo exhaust and decats and k&n filter. I would rather go down the route of increased/cooler air flow and remove more exhaust based restrictions, map/change ecu, better turbo's etc. and not stress the engine components too much to keep it as reliable as possible. Also, it's a long term investment! It appears from reading posts on his excellent forum and other less reliable internet forums that a dual intake and FMIC or uprated SMIC's are straight-forward ways to cool air and increase flow. So, this is the plan.

 

The Doolz system does not have good write ups - I found this: it makes sense but may be a system far more than my needs..

"The purpose of the Doolz is to allow the MAF sensor to meter air beyond the range that it was designed for. This is a relatively hard wall event. Once the airflow exceeds the MAF sensor's measurable range (at about 550-600RWHP high load) then the air volume is no longer metered accurately. This was the reason for the creation of the Doolz system in the first place. Its been marketed as much more then it was design for. Increasing the size of the intake and exhaust pipes would have a larger effect then going with the Doolz when you're engine is below this threshold.

 

The down side to using the Doolz intakes is related to just how it "fools" the ECU into seeing more air flow then the MAF sensor is seeing. The MAF sensor basically only meters half the air volume and the ECU is programmed to double what it sees. The result is half the resolution (increments between measured air compartments) and the potential for error based on the "ASSUMPTION" that both sides are pulling equal volumes of air.

 

Resolution effects how well the ECU can detect small changes in air flow. When at idle and low load cruise, a relatively small amount of air is being measured by the MAF sensor. Even less now that its halved by the Doolz. If resolution is low then it takes a larger amount of airflow change to be detected as a different amount. Remember that the ECU is digital and will meter the air in steps. The resolution is basically the width of the step. The greater the width between steps the more delta air is required to reach the next step.

 

Case two: If one filter path flows less air then the other then the assumption of equal half air measurements no longer exists. It can leave the engine running rich or lean depending on which path has a higher restriction. All it takes is one filter getting dirtier then the other or one filter seeing more air buffeting and the ECU no longer sees an accurate measurement of air flow and thus delivers an incorrect amount of fuel.

 

Don't get me wrong here. If the airflow requirements are being exceeded then a dual MAF sensor system will be your best solution. The Doolz would be a distant second option in my opinion. Its a primitive solution to a complex problem that’s been marketed as a simple HP mod for everyone."

 

Source: http://www.zcar.com/forum/12-90-96-tech-discussion-forum/290588-dual-intake-vs-doolz-intake.html

Any thoughts?

Greg

 

The post you quote, and the previous post by 'JT240z' are outdated ("Going with a Dualz intake is a complete waste of money unless you're pushing over about 600RWHP"). Which is fair enough as they were written in 2009.

 

A true dual intake set up is very worthwhile. It is definitely not required for 400bhp fly but it will allow 400bhp to be attained at lower boost levels.

 

I wouldn't really be looking at changing turbos for 400bhp, the stock items will have the best response & torque levels (typically 5% higher than BHP).

 

NGK BKR7E spark plugs

Stock turbos

Stock injectors

Full turbo-back exhaust, 2.5"

Exhaust manifolds

Dual intake

2.5" IC pipework

FMIC

 

With that set up, the downside is the cost of the 2.5" IC pipework. As you mentioned uprated turbos, I have assumed that pulling the engine is a given, hence the inclusion of uprated exhaust manifolds. However, there are many ways to achieve a certain power output. I managed 394bhp with cats & standard intercoolers in place, but with using high boost levels. By allowing the VG to breathe, you decrease BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) and the engine makes more power for the same amount of fuel used (ie "easier"). I would expect you to hit 400bhp fly with 1.1bar of boost on stock turbos with a set up like the one listed above :)

Thanks Noz, could I ask will the standard clutch handle that power or will it start to slip after a while at higher revs

So really having two filters hasn't made much difference so was it pointless of the previous owner before me doing that mod

 

That kind of set up is more due to space limitations & design considerations than anything else. It's a Zed, so everything is twice the price :D

 

If you have a big filter (eg HKS mushroom) jammed in down there facing the front of the car, you can end up having low speed drivability issues. Depending on the wind direction, throttle position, engine load and vehicle speed, the MAF element can be affected by turbulence and under certain situations it will read too high a voltage, resulting in very rich fuelling. I experienced this when I had my MAF & filter behind the near side indicator. Once I blocked off the bumper slats & relocated the MAF to the engine bay, it was fine.

 

With the set up you have, you won't get any of those issues, as air cannot enter the MAF without being drawn through due to the requirements of the engine. Also, the air filter surface area needs to be sufficiently big for 300+bhp of air.

Thanks for your info Noz

Thanks Noz, could I ask will the standard clutch handle that power or will it start to slip after a while at higher revs

 

Believe it or not, I went from a rapidly-dying autobox with 2 gears (and reverse!) to an OS Giken twin-plate, so haven't been able to investigate fully the limitations of the stock clutch. From other people's accounts, it seems to range from 330bhp-420bhp. The only time I have had a clutch fail was an uprated one from Z1 when I was mapping in Spain. It died within 2 pulls. I think 'tomfromthenorth' was running a stock clutch which didn't last too long at 420bhp & 430lb·ft (IIRC).

 

I did manage 500+bhp and many full-bore 6k rpm launches on a standard-spec MR2 Turbo Exedy clutch though! It slipped a couple of times up the strip, then appeared to be fine after that the more power I put through it :wack:

 

If you have a big filter (eg HKS mushroom) jammed in down there facing the front of the car, you can end up having low speed drivability issues. Depending on the wind direction, throttle position, engine load and vehicle speed, the MAF element can be affected by turbulence and under certain situations it will read too high a voltage, resulting in very rich fuelling. I experienced this when I had my MAF & filter behind the near side indicator. Once I blocked off the bumper slats & relocated the MAF to the engine bay, it was fine.

 

Well mentioned noel. Had forgotten I had to block the holes in front of my filters on the na aswell,