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Chicken or egg...

Hi Guys, I've been having little niggly problems with idle/stalling/hesitation.... I've seen the threads about a whole load of problems regarding this. Now, as I can make out there are quite a few adjustments that can be made which will effect the idle rpm, for instance, tps, throttle body balance even the cable adjuster, but what I would like to know is this, in what order do you make all these pertinent adjustment to set the idle, I have been going round in circles adjusting, re-adjusting, I cant seem to nail it down.

 

So can someone tell me in what order I make them and how to zero everything at the start.

 

Rich

 

ps just as I thought I knew all the ways to adjust things I read a post by groover giving me another one (Take off the yellow plug of the IACV with engine running and with a flat blade longish driver, turn the idle screw, once the revs are down to about 650 or nearly dying, plug the iacv plug back in and the ecu will take over the idle. )

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I assume before you started adjusting things you checked for vacuum leaks, TPS working correctly, timing ok.....??

Zed #2: 1998 Midnight Purple 2+2 NA. (owned 2020 - now) 

Zed #1: 1995 Blue Slicktop NA (2013-2015)

 

Are you doing it by ear or have you got a a readout of the values via Consult or similar?

 

With the IACV, I typically set it so that the AAC value is bang on 15 (this is the lowest value, so in order that it isn't too 'open' without you knowing it, it needs to be at the point when just dropping from 16/17 to 15). I don't remove the plug, because the less the loom is disturbed, the better IMO. The idle RPM value depends on the target RPM set by the ECU map. All adjustments to be done when up to temp and all ancillary items switched off.

 

TPS: Set it to 0.44-0.48v at closed throttle. Then disconnect the 3-pin oval connector to ensure the idle switch is correctly operational. Reconnect the connector after a few seconds.

 

Try disconnecting both O2 sensors and see if your symptoms improve.

 

Setting the idle correctly via the sensors is a 5 minute job whilst monitoring the live data.

  • Author
I assume before you started adjusting things you checked for vacuum leaks, TPS working correctly, timing ok.....??

 

Yep, all them were okay and adjusted through Scantech/Conzult on my laptop, it all started because I just wanted to adjust the idle, on my old Mk 2 escort you just twiddled a screw... Now I'm not actually sure which bit adjusts the idle..

 

Cheers

 

Rich

  • Author
Are you doing it by ear or have you got a a readout of the values via Consult or similar? Yep, Scantech etc on a laptop

 

With the IACV, I typically set it so that the AAC value is bang on 15 (this is the lowest value, so in order that it isn't too 'open' without you knowing it, it needs to be at the point when just dropping from 16/17 to 15). I don't remove the plug, because the less the loom is disturbed, the better IMO. The idle RPM value depends on the target RPM set by the ECU map. All adjustments to be done when up to temp and all ancillary items switched off.

 

TPS: Set it to 0.44-0.48v at closed throttle. Then disconnect the 3-pin oval connector to ensure the idle switch is correctly operational. Reconnect the connector after a few seconds.

 

Try disconnecting both O2 sensors and see if your symptoms improve.

 

Setting the idle correctly via the sensors is a 5 minute job whilst monitoring the live data.

 

is this method primarily the same as groovers? but without the plug removal.

 

on the tps adjustment, which oval connector are you referring to, is it the one on the valve at the back with the yellow connector?

 

Where are the o2 sensors?

 

Rich

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