Has anyone used this product?

Can it be used in a Z's gearbox?

Does it make any difference or if you use good quality oil and change it regularly,do you need it?

Lots of questions I know but I'm getting a pre-winter service done and was wondering if it's worth getting some Slick 50 for the gearbox and maybe the engine.

Any thoughts,suggestions or advice would be grateful.

Cheers,

F.T.

I wouldnt put anything other than gear oil in the gear box.

 

A while ago AY3388 brought up a good point of if, Slick 50 was so good, why dont they sell it to oil companies to put it in with thier oil from the can. Answer, the oil companies feel there is no need to do so.

 

People just do an oil change every 3000 to 6000 miles. 6000 the max really. I do it every 4,000. Make sure you change the oil filter with it too and use some good oil, semi-synthetic or full synthetic. You may thing that its cost too much to do an oil change every 4000 miles or so, but its a hell of a lot cheaper than a new engine or engine rebulid.

 

Stuart

I once added the Australian equivalent (ptfe?) of Slick 50 - because it was cheaper - to an old Saab 900 Turbo immediately after an oil change. And while the engine was idling - over a 5 minute period - the engine revs went up noticeably. Therefore I concluded that the stuff works. And when I got my naZ 2 and a half years ago I did the same, but the revs stayed as they were. No conclusion to this apart from I think it's worth it cos if it does make a difference then that's great, and if it doesn't, we'll it's not a lot of money to chance. A relative of mine who used to sell oil says Slick 50 is the same addative that's already in oil to give it it's lubrication qualities, just not 'watered-down' by an oil carrier.

 

I've tried the gearbox equivalent (on same 900 Turbo) with no noticeable improvement, but the gearbox (manual) was already noisy.

 

good luck

 

Jack

question was put it in the gearbox - Is there not a possibility if it does work that it makes the synchros worse ie crunchier cos the reduced friction stops them using friction to synchronise the cogs before they mesh as they should do

Slick 50 got taken to court in the US for false advertising. And had to pay out huge amounts.

 

I wouldn't do it, oil companies spend millions on there oils anti wear packages. Just buy some decent oil in the first place.

I just did some searching and found what looks to be a very knowledgeable (and very long) article on additives. Mainly re engine rather than gearbox but hope it illuminates the debate.

 

It also has stuff to say on synth vs other oils.

 

It's here http://www.paterson5.freeserve.co.uk/oil%20additives.html

 

I won't do a comprehensive cut and paste but just mention that the ingredient appears to be a suspension of Teflon. DuPont wanted to stop supplying it because it was worthless but got forced to continue to supply. Just a couple of quotes:

 

DuPont's Fluoropolymers Division Product Specialist, J.F. Imbalzano said, "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines."

Synthetics and synthetic blends offer a wider range of protection than standard petroleum products. However, it should be noted that this extended range of protection reaches into an area of temperatures and pressures virtually impossible to attain inside most motorcycle engines and transmissions. In other words, if you use them, you are buying a sort of "overkill protection." It's certainly not going to hurt anything - it's just unnecessary.

 

As a basic rule of thumb, using the standard engine oil

recommended by your bike's manufacturer and changing it about

every 3000 miles will afford you all the protection you'll ever

need. But if you feel better knowing you have more protection than you need or, if you like the extended service-life feature,

there's certainly nothing wrong with using a premium grade

synthetic blend lubricant.

Blimey, where's Nelson when you need him?

 

Cheers - Gio

yes its true that making the oil more slipery if you know what mean causes the syncro mesh to syncronise the gears slower causing crunching or so i have been told this is becaues friction is what is needed.

Most people where I work(Shell) reckon it's a waste of money, and we now own it as we've bought out the company that make it in the USA:D