Well had time today to clean all the connectors and double check again why cylinder 1 has gone down. I had spark and the injector ohmed within range at 12.6 ohms, so i unplugged the injector while the car was running and made no difference, so i knew then i must trace the problem further back, so having read about another member having an issue with the ECU, i thought i would start there.

 

I took the ECU out of the car and opened her up, all looked fine on the front of the board and the secondary board, so continued with the rear of the main board and i could see instantly the problem, green corroded pins on two adjacent pins on the board, which co-inside with the feed for cylinder one. The top of the pin had disappeared and although im good with a soldering iron i couldnt get enough heat on top of it without damaging the board, so i made a pigtail using some thin wire to bridge the pin to the relevant part of the board about 20mm away and did a continuity test and all seemed good.

 

Plugged the ECU back in the car and started her up and what a difference having 6 cylinders back:punk:

 

I have a very slight lumpiness, which i think maybe down to the plug in cylinder one caked up, even though i only put in new ones last week, burning no fuel, but it feels great to have some speed again and not sounding like a scooby :thumbup:

Bloody done well there mate, brilliant diagnosis.

 

Glad you got it sorted, some you lose some you WIN!

Well done mate. You should have posted pictures up

I will take some pics of the ecu pins in the week to double check the connection, im still getting a lumpiness and the car is stalling when warmed up, im thinking its the fast idle control valve, because when i switch on the air con the revs die, also i cant adjust the idle with the screw, which would normally indicate a dodgy maf, so cant get the intake percentage where it needs to be.

 

Fix one thing and another occurs :whistling: :biggrin: