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clutch ajustment ?

right my clutch peddel bitting point is and always has been right on the floor and sometimes i have a right old job of getting it into 1st gear ,it feels like it doesnt want to go and so to make it go in i select 2nd then back to fisrt then it goes in no problem, might not be an accociated problem but it might help. i have a new slave new master and new toped up fluid that dont move. i do have to much play in the peddle and going to see if any ajustment minght help, cant harm, my question is do i wind the bolt in to get a higher bite on the peddle? dont want to go wrong way and pop anything out. looked at guides dont really help awnsering that question. cheers

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you need to look at the Pedal push rod adjustment see if its backed all the way back first .. if it is .. adjust it out this will give u a little more throw on the master in turn pushing the slave more

but all so the bad part of this is the clutch pedal its self will be high up then brake pedal

right my clutch peddel bitting point is and always has been right on the floor and sometimes i have a right old job of getting it into 1st gear ,it feels like it doesnt want to go and so to make it go in i select 2nd then back to fisrt then it goes in no problem, might not be an accociated problem but it might help. i have a new slave new master and new toped up fluid that dont move. i do have to much play in the peddle and going to see if any ajustment minght help, cant harm, my question is do i wind the bolt in to get a higher bite on the peddle? dont want to go wrong way and pop anything out. looked at guides dont really help awnsering that question. cheers

 

Are you sure all the air is out of the system? If it is, then this guide describes symptoms

(including yours) and adjustment procedure:

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/clutchadjustment.html

Edited by AndrewG

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

  • Author

cheers mark so far the only thing i caould see was the loocking nut 14mm so i manage to loosen whilst slipping my hand of the nut and now have a 1/2 inch cut on my finger but coulnt workout how to wind it in or out i must need to strip out more air venty stuff i guess to get proper accsess i guess, is that right? the bolt has plenty ajustment in or out,though

adjust.jpg

 

 

 

The adjustment method is quite simple, once the 14 mm nut is loose, spin it down to the un-threaded part of the rod, then you can use the 14 mm spanner to turn the nut and the rod at the same time.

 

Check each full turn to be sure that there is some play left because if not you will end up with the clutch pedal holding down the clutch a little which is not good.

 

Once happy with the setting the 14 mm nut needs to return to the lock position however its likely it has tightened on the rod now, so what you do is half depress the pedal with your hand, push hard\sideways on the pedal so locking the rod, and then with spanner move the nut and it will release, you should be able to spin it in to position and tighten.

 

Note: changing the rod adjustment will not effect the pedal height compared to the brake pedal, only if the switch stops are moved will it change.

 

Jeff TT

  • Author

Right so me being dumb if i undo the locknut and wind it down to the unthreaded bit then i can wind it in or out with a ten mm spanner? so the rod must have a hole it it then with a cable through it and whislt im here whats with the yellow and green drawings?

Right so me being dumb if i undo the locknut and wind it down to the un-threaded bit then i can wind it in or out with a ten mm spanner? so the rod must have a hole it it then with a cable through it and whislt im here whats with the yellow and green drawings?

 

No cable through the rod, the clutch is hydraulic, the rod acts upon the booster and master cylinder mechanically which in turn hydraulically moves the slave cylinder which acts mechanically upon the clutch fork arm and this finally mechanically acts on the release bearing and clutch cover, the yellow and green highlights relate to if the switch stops need adjusting, sometimes these are adjusted to give more pedal throw when particular clutches are fitted, this is when the hight will not match the brake pedal.

 

Jeff TT

  • Author

right ill have a another go as my hand has stop throbbing and the lock nut is not done up f t, thanks for the advice guys

  • Author

Mine dont look like that in the pics, mine has no 10 mm nut to turn because mine has a fine splines going in to the cylinder thing. so it looks to me the only way im going to do this is to take out the pin on the peddle wind the whoule unit out of the nut about 5 mm , them try to put back the pin and silver bit thus making the brass bolt thing longer, i think. heres 2 pics to show that there different, mine is a 1990 tt uk model, thats prop were the diff is thou maybe?

clutch pic 3.jpg

clutch pic 2.jpg

hope this helps all this working upside down is not good for my head. lol

ok in your pic its a 14mm nut .. but u can adjust the clutch some more as u can see there is still some thred poking tho the collar ..

but remember u only need to keep adjusting untill the clutch feels better .. dont do it to much

once its ok .. Move the nut to the U collar and lock the thread off

Mine dont look like that in the pics, mine has no 10 mm nut to turn because mine has a fine splines going in to the cylinder thing. so it looks to me the only way im going to do this is to take out the pin on the peddle wind the whoule unit out of the nut about 5 mm , them try to put back the pin and silver bit thus making the brass bolt thing longer, i think. heres 2 pics to show that there different, mine is a 1990 tt uk model, thats prop were the diff is thou maybe?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]77506[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]77507[/ATTACH]

hope this helps all this working upside down is not good for my head. lol

 

I found the same on mine.

Instead of removing the link, I adjusted the thing by using long nosed plies and gripped on the splines.

Fiddly I know, but saved any dismantling.

  • Author
I found the same on mine.

Instead of removing the link, I adjusted the thing by using long nosed plies and gripped on the splines.

Fiddly I know, but saved any dismantling.

 

didnt want to do this because i dont know how the rod is connected in the clyinder because of the splines on it , it must get keyed in with the splines. is the rod just sitting in a threadded splined whole, dont want to cause anymore damage to somthing else?

The splines on the rod are a red herring, they do not engage into anything, the rod is free to turn and it not directly connected to anything and is just a push fit into the clutch booster its is fitted in. Turn the 14 mm nut until it get to the spline section, from there when you turn the 14 mm nut it will turn the rod and this will make the road longer between the clutch pedal and the booster.

 

Once happy with the setting the 14 mm nut needs to return to the lock position however its likely it has tightened on the rod now, so what you do is half depress the pedal with your hand, push hard\sideways on the pedal so locking the rod, and then with spanner move the nut and it will release, you should be able to spin it in to position and tighten.

 

Jeff TT

  • Author
The splines on the rod are a red herring, they do not engage into anything, the rod is free to turn and it not directly connected to anything and is just a push fit into the clutch booster its is fitted in. Turn the 14 mm nut until it get to the spline section, from there when you turn the 14 mm nut it will turn the rod and this will make the road longer between the clutch pedal and the booster.

 

Once happy with the setting the 14 mm nut needs to return to the lock position however its likely it has tightened on the rod now, so what you do is half depress the pedal with your hand, push hard\sideways on the pedal so locking the rod, and then with spanner move the nut and it will release, you should be able to spin it in to position and tighten.

Thanks thats the info i was looking for ,so i now know i cant damage the clutch booster. cheers

Jeff TT

 

cheers ill return to that in the morning

  • Author

Is done and fills loads better, its now about half way up appose to being on the floor,might wind it in just a nats to get perfect for me. Cheers for help guys.

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