Hello all! (from France!),

 

After a year of really nice rides with the Red Z32, including track days and Spa Classic sessions

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?166760-A-Z32-driven-to-France-for-a-new-or-continued-life-into-a-nice-home!

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170028-Z32TT-500-BHP-on-Spa-Classic-2013-25-amp-26-of-May

 

I could not resist a second Z32 when the special dedicated track version was for sale end of last year

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173306-1991-High-Power-600bhp-Track-prepared-300zx-TT-for-Sale

 

A one day drive to UK with the trailer and the car was now in Reims!

The discovery of the car was as expected regarding the specs, but a few things were not exactly as good as it should be...

Christmas and New Year was too busy with the family to look at it, and January was just filled with professional travels and business matters!

I now took the opportunity of this week end to start having a look as the weather is better (here!).

 

I could not have the idling running on all six cylinders in UK, and restarting the engine here was the same or worst (not starting!):

Checking the Motec diag screens on a PC with the ECU connected, I have no errors.

I checked the connectors for both coils and injectors, and could not find any real fault, even if they are not "fully reliable" at the look at them.

I then had a restart and pushed the throttle to get 1500/2000 rpm... and the engine runs fine on 6 cylinders, with AFM values correct and stable.

 

I come to two possible reasons:

1. Un calibrated throttle sensor as idling value is very low. I have to recalibrate the range and look if it comes to better situation.

2. Poor jetting of injectors on idling as 700 cc/min units are probably running badly with very short opening times.

 

I cannot see any problem on PTU (phase 2) or synch, as it woul not run correctly at higher RPM than idling.

The petrol in the tank is probably very old, so I should change it for new.

The petrol filter has to be checked for plugging

The pressure regulator will require some pressure check to avoid any problem on this side

 

Would you consider above points as the right points to be checked?

Do you see any other point that could give those faults?

 

Comparing the steering assistance between the red one and this one, turning the wheels is initiating some noise as soon as turned (like it woul do on the end of the turn).

What could be the reason for this?

 

Thanks!

Hi,

 

Does it run better when fully warmed up? Some of the above will depend on how the motec is setup to idle ie via timing and tb opening or through the idle air control.

 

I wouldn't worry about the size of the injectors being an issue

 

 

Ps did you get the calendar?

I have to check the idling method with the Motec, and I will confirm.

Good that the injectors should not be a problem.

 

I thought that I confirmed the calendar reciept... :blush: sorry and thanks for it: Very nice, and standing in my office!!

sounding like steering system might have air in the pipework if its groaning.

Jaffa:

The idle control is done by idle air control through proportionnal output channel 1

Santa:

How to get rid of the air in the pipework? Self purge by running, or defined method?

 

I disassembled the balance tube and replaced the small O-Ring as it was white packed stuff in the groove...(!)

Edited February 17, 201411 yr by Hub280ZX

there's a guide to bleed the PAS, involves front in the air and turning lock to lock repeatedly

 

re the idle, is it better when warmed up? ie it's a generic idle issue rather than cold start

I could not resist a second Z32 when the special dedicated track version was for sale end of last year

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?173306-1991-High-Power-600bhp-Track-prepared-300zx-TT-for-Sale

 

A one day drive to UK with the trailer and the car was now in Reims!

 

Hubert exporting another UK spec 300ZX to France. No wonder they are becoming a rare sight in this country!

 

there's a guide to bleed the PAS, involves front in the air and turning lock to lock repeatedly

 

re the idle, is it better when warmed up? ie it's a generic idle issue rather than cold start

 

When you say front in the air, you mean wheels off the ground or... higher?

Idle is not better when warmed up. I have to keep my foot with little touch to avoid engine stop, and under 1500/2000 rpm it is not running with all 6 cylinders.

 

Thanks for the picture Andrew!

You still have many in UK compared with France, and this one is not counting in the classic list with all the changes...

Looking to have it on the road in a few weeks... hopefully.

Fresh plugs might be a good start

What do you recommend for such upgraded engine?

Platinium or irridium, grade 7 or even 8

Looks like Platinium still have their fans because of a longer nose, but irridium gives the hot/cold choice

I must admit that I never looked at the ones I have on the other Z32, but they should be platinium as mapping was made by John Dixon and he is a fan of those

I would go with 8's, but if the map is at all off they will probably foul. If the map is ok, then 8's will be no bother.

 

write up for PS bleeding

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=7&design=default&total=98

irridium give Noz a shout sorry Noel hell put you right on the plugs with any upgrades that u have,water air condensation engress in a car that get used twice a year might be a prop. i bet if you did drain fluids and replace bet its gone, oh how funny that i only just said about this car the other day ,spooky.

If you're fouling plugs, try some fresh copper NGK BKR7E plugs for the time being. They do exactly the same job as Iridium (thin-wire centre electrode) plugs and are less prone to failure due to fouling. They are longer than the BCR8ES that I use in mine, so closer to stock design (not that I've found any issues whatsoever running BCR8ES). Don't use platinums.

 

Injectors much bigger than 740cc will idle just fine as long as the mapping is correct.

 

You need to be measuring AFRs to see what's happening.

Thanks for info guys!

So, the matter was to find spark plugs in Reims today, and I could get 6 units BCR8ES (the BKR 7 EIX-11 are on order as not avaliable).

I took some time to get the actual plugs out, and they are BKR8 EIX... black as if they stayed in a fuel chimney for years!!

 

The pictures...

 

 

 

 

 

 

They are all six the same. Not wet (they ran on Sunday for about 5 minutes around 1000 to 2000 rpm).

I changed them for the ones I have BCR 8 ES gapped 0.9 mm.

 

Before I try to restart, I would like your opinion.

It looks like the fuel is much too high, at least for idle, and that's all the car has tried to run since Two years!

However, when I started it on sunday, the AFR readings were not showing crazy numbers as they were around 11/14, and the garage was not filled with dark smoke. So could this come from multiple attempts to run it just warming up, without cleaning on the road?

 

Maybe I should start and see how it runs with the new plugs, and after a warm up session, check two or three again to see if they become really black?

 

I have to solve matters for the technical control (MOT equivalent) to have it registered before I can go for a ride on the road...

yes, i would imagine it's from the warm-cycle, and does sound like it's on the rich side as well. The Coppers don't foul as easily so you should be fine to do multiple start up / warm cycle's without worrying about it and while you troubleshoot you're other issues

Before I can proceed further, I have to solve this starter problem.

When SlickPete changed the starter, the wiring was not functionnal with the added pannel having a general switch and a starter push button. So basically, he changed the starter for nothing, and I have a spare one!

The wiring is interrupted somewhere, and the engine starts actually from a separate wire to contact the + from the battery.

Considering the battery on the passenger side, and the action with this wire on the battery, it is not possible to sit in the bucket and look at what happens at the same time.

I have the impression that the throttles are too much closed (physically) to allow the engine to run on idle. The help of a foot push is necessary, but not possible being alone!

I will try to connect an extra push button on this wire... hoping that it does not welds with the spark induced.

 

Of course, the wiring as it is now with this push button for start is nothing defined on a wiring diagram, and I have to trace the whole circuit before getting mixed... and risk short circuits!

Anyone knows if there is a relay activated with the key contact on start position and where it is located? Hopefully the extra circuit is connected to this relay...

 

I'll also have a lift of the car tomorrow, and have a look to quickly inspect it from under...

There are two positive wire to the starter, one should be heavy duty and is permanently connected via a big bolt terminal, the other is much smaller for the actual start signal.

 

There is no relay on the signal cable unless it was an auto originally

 

I've recently overhauled all the wiring on mine so happy to help

OK! :thumbup1:

Jaffa, you were right, asking a sparks plug change! Noz, I used BCR8ES and they run fine! Thanks guys!!

I had a start test with four hands, and it runs nicely at 1000/1050 rpm with engine cold. No hesitations any more, and same vapor output from both exhausts until I stopped. Good, so the engine is now running fine for start and idle. Lambda values are around 12,5/13

By the way, is it possible to clean those fouled spark plugs and how? ... Or should they go direct in the bin?

 

On the other hand, I had a lift on the 4 column lifter, and I could easily find the starter cable that I have to check.

The view under the car was not impressive... as there is a number of areas where the rust has more than appeared!

I'll target first the obligations for the french MOT, and get the registration. But then, I will need a better look and have some protection done.

good to hear :) throw the old ones in the bin!

12.5:1-13:1 on cold start? That's OK assuming it gradually leans out. 12.5:1-13:1 on warm idle is not so good unless you're running high-lift cams and don't like the lumpy idle.

 

Stick with coppers and just change them every 5k miles or 1 year.

So basically, he changed the starter for nothing,

 

No he didnt. Slick Pete doesnt do anything for free!!

Lets get the facts in the correct order.

1. Rob asked me to supply him with a working starter motor. Which I supplied. I charged him £30 which was a fair price

He had been told previously by someone else that his was faulty.

2. When I went to see the car he asked me to help him fit it.

3 after it was correctly fitted the car still wouldnt work which pointed to a faulty activation to the starter.

4. The quickest way to check this out on a day when no tools or diagnostics were available was to rig up a live feed to the solenoid actiator wire direct from the battery, which I did.

5. The car started immediately and sat there idling on its own for 15 minutes.

6. I paid Rob for the parts I bought from him. shook hands .... and left.

End of.

Veuillez m'excuser, Monsieur Slick Pete...

I am bad with my english, and it was not my intention to let people understand something wrong.

I never said that you did the job for nothing in terms of charge, cost, money or payment.

All I was meaning is that from Rob faulty diagnostic, you changed it for no necessity.

Thanks for having installed the extra wire to get the missing activation and engine start.

 

Congratulations for your running project on the 240Z! Very nice job!

OK, some more progress made yesterday and this morning:

The start push button was dead (no contact on push!).

I tried to find one locally yesterday morning, but Reims looks like a desert for spares you are looking for!

I found one finally on an old piece of electric board, disassembled it, enlaged the hole in the plate and monted it.

I rechecked the cables and assembly, and it now works! Starting from the driver position is nice compared with the flying wire!

 

I had an oil change before proceeding, putting new 10w50 Opie Oil fats road quality. I put 3.25 liters (without changing the filter).

Level is fine, with pressure a little less than 5w40 that was in it (low rpm and not driving).

 

This is the video of the restart, with a view inside the car and on the exhausts. Cobra pipes are quite loud, and I hope that it will not be too loud!

 

One more "discovery" as I wonder if Rob even knew this was installed...

Inside the glove box from the central console, there are quite a number of extra electronics in there.

I could recognise a turbo timer and a valve controler from what is written on them.

Anyone having links for the manuals? There is an extra switch, potentiometer, and led installed...

I now have to find and learn how those are working (if they are installed and connected!)

 

 

A few more matters to finalize...

I have two more switches under the start panel, and they link directly to the Motec management ecu plugs.

I have to trace the pin numbers and find what they actually are...

The other one is correct adjustment of the front bumper with the right wing, and repair of a resin break in the bumper.

I also have to relocate the battery quick connection plug that is located at the rear of the front number plate:

We must have plates fixed with rivets in France as screws are not possible (too quick to exchange plates?:))

 

Insurance for the road drive will be activated next week... and I am now in a hurry to test the car!!

Hubert, HKS EVC 4 information:

 

 

HKS EVC IV Installation Instructions.pdf

HKS EVC IV Set Up Instructions.pdf

 

Car sounds a lot better than it did when you collected it!

Edited February 23, 201411 yr by AndrewG

The other knob could be traction control

Car sounds a lot better than it did when you collected it!

 

Being confident is sometimes rewarding!

Claire was like you when we met: She was keeping on telling me "Are you sure that we buy the car and bring it back home?"

I was blind to critics because I could not believe that the initial built was wrong, and the Japfest video was prooving it.

I think that the attention to the stored car was not the best one... and the look under is prooving it...

There is quite a serious job to be made for rust stop and efficient protection.

 

Let's see first if it runs as expected!

Thanks for the HKS information. I will try to find someone who knows how to calibrate and use it.

 

Jaffa: Yes, it could be as this option is (or was) activated on the Motec management.

There are quite a numerous options in there, even a full WOT gear change... that was disabled by Rob (or more precisely by the Motec tuner on his requirement!)

I will first have some drive for test when it is registered with french plates, keeping the HKS EVC off, traction control off, and not changing anything to the motec maps and actual functions.

I can have data acquisition from the Motec on test runs, and check all parameters to be safe (AFR/Boost/ignition).

After that, I can look in more details about every add on!

Edited February 23, 201411 yr by Hub280ZX