Hi, just Got the car back up and running after a gearbox change, previous box showed signs of internal damage ie intermittent gear selection problems, but what ever the problem it would never get out of 2nd. At the time i never checked fuses, Gearbox ECU etc.. i was told the box needed changing and took it on faith. However , now the new box is installed (which was taken on faith yet again it was fine) when i took it out for its first run, it would only use 1st and 2nd in D mode. i have recently had it pointed out that the problem might be external to the box ie the fuses, Gearbox ECU, etc...

 

So i have found out how to put it into diag mode, which i will try soon and give the results, i found this site

 

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Automatic+Transmission+Diagnostics

 

which looks great anyway in case anyone hasn't found it yet. i know where the Gearbox ECU is located but need to know if the GB has any fuses that blow and if so where are they

 

I cant think of any other issues that might affect the smooth running of the box but again, if anyone knows better please advise.

 

Another question, when i press the overdrive? button, a light illuminates on the RH set of warning lamps called "MISSION OIL" (i think it means transmission oil) has a wire gone astray? have i somehow got a rogue dash unit.

 

Kind Regards

 

Rich

sorry, cant edit. its the bottom of the long post near the end of the thread!

sorry, cant edit. its the bottom of the long post near the end of the thread!

sorry, cant edit. its the bottom of the long post near the end of the thread!

 

Then get subscribed :P

sorry, cant edit. its the bottom of the long post near the end of the thread!

 

Then get subscribed :P

i will, its run out. hadn't realized ;)

i will, its run out. hadn't realized ;)

Are you saying you feel the tps issue is still there as your still getting the error code on the autobox? if so disconnect the battery for a couple of hours and then do a code check again, it maybe an old code and is a red herring.

 

Jeff

Are you saying you feel the tps issue is still there as your still getting the error code on the autobox? if so disconnect the battery for a couple of hours and then do a code check again, it maybe an old code and is a red herring.

 

Jeff

I'll try that, is that the only way to clear codes?

I'll try that, is that the only way to clear codes?

I'll try that, is that the only way to clear codes?

 

Yep, or disconnect the autobox ecu, also the autobox ecu could potentially be faulty I guess.

 

Jeff

I'll try that, is that the only way to clear codes?

 

Yep, or disconnect the autobox ecu, also the autobox ecu could potentially be faulty I guess.

 

Jeff

I'll try that, I have another auto ecu as well. So I'll swap that tomorrow as well and post how I get on. How difficult is an auto box swap with no lift, just out of curiosity as I have a spare box at well ;)

I'll try that, I have another auto ecu as well. So I'll swap that tomorrow as well and post how I get on. How difficult is an auto box swap with no lift, just out of curiosity as I have a spare box at well ;)

I'll try that, I have another auto ecu as well. So I'll swap that tomorrow as well and post how I get on. How difficult is an auto box swap with no lift, just out of curiosity as I have a spare box at well ;)

 

Not too bad as its flat bottomed and if you remove the torque converter with the box very little fluid loss, still bloody heavy mind, lower down on a trolley jack.

 

Jeff

I'll try that, I have another auto ecu as well. So I'll swap that tomorrow as well and post how I get on. How difficult is an auto box swap with no lift, just out of curiosity as I have a spare box at well ;)

 

Not too bad as its flat bottomed and if you remove the torque converter with the box very little fluid loss, still bloody heavy mind, lower down on a trolley jack.

 

Jeff

Thanks

Thanks

Okay, so I checked for continuity between main ecu and auto ecu and that seemed fine. Swapped the auto ecu with a known good one, initially the power light did not give the 16 warning flashes on ignition. So big grins and took for a test drive. Still only first, second and reverse. Also when I got back, I did another transmission diagnostic and again getting code three (throttle sensor circuit shorted or unplugged). Pulling my hair out now. Main ecu shows code 55, idles ok. But at about 2500 revs, if you try to hold it there, even in neutral the revs constantly pulse between 1000 and 2500??

Anyway, when it got dark I decided to remove the transmission from my other car. Of the top two difficult bolts to remove, I removed the passenger side one, but the drivers side one isn't there I don't think. I can feel the hole where it should be, unless it bolts from the engine side?? I can't seem to separate the box from the engine. Any ideas or pics of the bolt locations?

Thanks

Edited January 30, 20169 yr by evilanger

Okay, so I checked for continuity between main ecu and auto ecu and that seemed fine. Swapped the auto ecu with a known good one, initially the power light did not give the 16 warning flashes on ignition. So big grins and took for a test drive. Still only first, second and reverse. Also when I got back, I did another transmission diagnostic and again getting code three (throttle sensor circuit shorted or unplugged). Pulling my hair out now. Main ecu shows code 55, idles ok. But at about 2500 revs, if you try to hold it there, even in neutral the revs constantly pulse between 1000 and 2500??

Anyway, when it got dark I decided to remove the transmission from my other car. Of the top two difficult bolts to remove, I removed the passenger side one, but the drivers side one isn't there I don't think. I can feel the hole where it should be, unless it bolts from the engine side?? I can't seem to separate the box from the engine. Any ideas or pics of the bolt locations?

Thanks

Did you remove the bottom cover plate between the engine and bell housing and undo the bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel???

Yep, I've done some searching and i think it might be the dipstick tube or maybe the wiring that goes up to the engine bay

Haven't had time to go and check, will try and check Friday

Okay, so I checked for continuity between main ecu and auto ecu and that seemed fine. Swapped the auto ecu with a known good one, initially the power light did not give the 16 warning flashes on ignition. So big grins and took for a test drive. Still only first, second and reverse. Also when I got back, I did another transmission diagnostic and again getting code three (throttle sensor circuit shorted or unplugged). Pulling my hair out now. Main ecu shows code 55, idles ok. But at about 2500 revs, if you try to hold it there, even in neutral the revs constantly pulse between 1000 and 2500??

Anyway, when it got dark I decided to remove the transmission from my other car. Of the top two difficult bolts to remove, I removed the passenger side one, but the drivers side one isn't there I don't think. I can feel the hole where it should be, unless it bolts from the engine side?? I can't seem to separate the box from the engine. Any ideas or pics of the bolt locations?

Thanks

 

I don't want to 'lead you up the wrong path' but with the car not revving past 2500 revs, doesn't that point a finger at the MAF. I'm not too sure if this would send a signal to the ECU and in turn to the autobox ECU as this is similar to what I had on my Navara??

 

One for Jeff.

I don't want to 'lead you up the wrong path' but with the car not revving past 2500 revs, doesn't that point a finger at the MAF. I'm not too sure if this would send a signal to the ECU and in turn to the autobox ECU as this is similar to what I had on my Navara??

 

One for Jeff.

 

You're thinking of limp mode, which limits the revs to 2500 and can be caused by the MAF, but i'm no mechanic so I don't know what else it could be if not the MAF :S

No, I've not explained very well, the car revs freely till redline, but if you try and hold the revs at about 2500, it won't. The revs rise and fall between 1000 and 2500. Maybe boost leak? Maf would give a code or limp mode, wouldn't it?

No, I've not explained very well, the car revs freely till redline, but if you try and hold the revs at about 2500, it won't. The revs rise and fall between 1000 and 2500. Maybe boost leak? Maf would give a code or limp mode, wouldn't it?

 

Yes you would get a code for MAF not working properly, and limp mode wouldn't even let the engine rev up to redline.