Thought i`d do it cold as the bugger wont run until its hot so my thinking was see whats going on when cold. Not looking good, all over the shop as far as psi tolerances are concerned. My results are cyl1: 145 cyl2: 145 cyl3:130 cyl4:130 cyl5:140 cyl6:120

Double checked today..same results

 

I know thermal expansion would make a difference but its a 25psi difference between 1 and 6.

I have a bit of smoke every now and then..the plenum always has a puddle in it. The Sparks are all looking healthy although do seem to have oily threads but no sign of burning oil on the plug itself.

So i`m guessing my next course of action should be a warm wet test and see what differs.

She did pop the stick just the once awhile ago but i put that down to me not sticking it back in properly..(hung over maintenance never a good thing).

Doesn`t use water but is using oil.

So am i correct in assuming no.6 has given up the ghost or are there other possibilitys.

Any advice/opinions welcomed

Well the figures aren't catastrophic, so a wet test will now tell you a lot more. I presume that you will get a higher figure on 6 when wet, indicating either bore, ring or ring land damage.

No difference would suggest valves, but that seems a little less likely.

Hello mate..how the devil are you? Didn`t you move?

This engine has caused nothing but trouble..its the one supposedly rebuilt by the little ninja garage..i`ve replaced pretty much everything..just had the cam belt done too..new bde cam pulleys as the others were spraying oil. All the front seals were leaking cos they were the wrong sort..manifold was blowing cos of studs not being in the block properly..replaced almost every gasket and hose as some where missing..replaced injectors..(whilst i remember the cap had broken on #6.)

I`ve hardly driven it since i saw you last..not even had the chance to really try your chip out.

But I`m at a loss now as to where do i go from here..`i`ve spent too much time,money,blood sweat n tears on it to give up..it`s like always down to money or lack of it.

Wish I had a garage..i`d pull it myself

120 Although low is not gonna cause starting issues.the others are not of too great a concern.id be looking elsewhere .It needs a consult on it id say.

Hi jimmer,

Yeah i`ve found my idle valve to be out of spec ohm wise so i`ve got another coming from Mr. derby.

It starts fine but as soon as the revs come down from the cold start it just hits the floor and dies..restarts every time and holds once warm.

 

But if you are to put load on it when cold its all over the place, surging wanting to die etc. but once up to temp its ok. I`ve replaced the ecu temp sensor, checked the tps..injectors are in range too. ptu is series 2, cas is new. I do need to check the accordion hoses for splits..

Only thing i can think of apart from the idle valve is the maf.. which, i`ve noticed has obviously been dropped by someone in the past as its circuit housing is cracking but that`s been fine up till now .I did borrow joelys maf to compare and it still ran the same although suppose it wouldnt hurt to pop the top off and inspect. Just had to redo my speedo both sides cos the solder had cracked ..maybe this is the same.

 

No error codes. oh and it`s a new loom so no dodgy connections

I have the free software ecu talk and datascan plus free conzult so i`ll plug in when i get the chance.

The thing that puzzles me is why run ok when warm?

Edited November 11, 201312 yr by santa