Having seen a question about changing the abs sensors on the diff a week or so ago I had the very job come in the workshop and though a few pics would be useful.

 

As it happened this particular zed had a hicas lock out fitted which made the access a little easier but not by a lot, it made the pics easier though.

 

 

The sensors on the rear diff do not fit directly into the alloy unit but into steel inserts that are pressed into the diff, now this makes for a 50/ 50 chance of the unit coming out easy, the steel insert rusts and makes the removal a real pain, the most important thing is to ensure the sensor comes out of the insert not the insert out of the diff.

 

As it happened this zed was a little rusty :blink: and the sensor was held fast by rust in the insert, a generous amount of WD40 or similar is required and needs to be re-applied through out the job.

 

The 12 mm bolt needs undoing and its worth using a good ring spanner to be sure there is no chance of rounding it off, also once it starts loosening off is to work it back and forward to prevent its snapping because that will really mess up your day!

 

 

 

Of course we had done both in-built diagnostic check and on our specific ABS diagnostic tester but its a good idea to check the sensor with a test meter, the pic shows the good sensor on the drivers side the one that was faulty was the passenger side and was open circuit.

 

 

As the picture shows the sensor is well rusted in and we had to leave it overnight soaking in releasing fluid.

 

 

 

So with lots of WD40 and a good pair of water pump pliars the unit is slowly rotated back and forward with with more WD40 re-applied.

 

 

Continue.....

Edited August 28, 201312 yr by JeffTT

So with some luck and work you will start to see the unit come out of the insert:

 

 

 

More turning and more WD40:

 

 

The sensor will most likely be damaged if as stubborn as this one but if your changing it then its no biggy, the unit will finally come clear.

 

 

So once removed the insert needs cleaning up and lightly oiling to help the new one slip in without any trouble, once fitted and the retaining bolt done up ( not too tight) then its a case of connecting up and running the car and hopefully no ABS fault light!!

 

 

Good luck with this guys this was done on a four post ramp standing up, would be a mare on your back on side jacks unless the sensor was one of the few that come out clean.

 

 

Jeff TT

Edited August 27, 201312 yr by JeffTT

Great write up Jeff and will help a lot of members. Thanks for that :thumbup1:

Excellent Jeff. any chance of doing one for the front's?

You've done it again !

 

Maybe in your retiement you should gather all of these together and publish then in a 'How To' book for tyhe Z32 ! It'd be a best seller !

fronts are the same method of change out as the rears

 

see here:

Loccation http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/028.gif

air-gap http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/036.gif

sensor resistance range and self diagnosis using ABS control unit LED to identify wheel sensor fault http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/037.gif

 

 

cheers,

connector locations http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/040.gif