West replaced the clutch on his Z because it was slipping only to find that the new clutch is slipping! any help and advise i know would be much appreciated.

 

dan.

Assuming it was a like for like unit so no differences with the bearing carrier it most likely the pedal adjustment, the pedal bite position is adjustable behind the pedal by changing the length of the rod.

Sure there is a how to somewhere with pictures, will try and find it.

Jeff TT

I think there is some adjustment on the peddle, hopefully someone like Jeff or Mark will be along soon to help.

 

Paul

Assuming it was a like for like unit so no differences with the bearing carrier it most likely the pedal adjustment, the pedal bite position is adjustable behind the pedal by changing the length of the rod.

Sure there is a how to somewhere with pictures, will try and find it.

Jeff TT

not sure what clutch came out but he replaced it with a blue point one, will mention the pedal adjustment thanks.

 

dan.

Also check the flexi line as these can implode and hold on to line pressure after you have taken your foot off the pedal and it keeps the clutch slightly depressed although the pedal returns up, a faulty master cylinder can have the same effect, fluid lock can also be a problem if the pipework is close to the exhaust header and the fluid has too much moisture in, try changing the fluid.

 

Jeff TT

 

seen this will mention it as well.

 

dan.

its also worth mentioning contamination of the flywheel or clutch, had this happen couple years back, small amount of oil had touched the plate and it kept slipping, had to replace the plate

Taken from the TwinTurbo.net site acknowledgement to the poster there Maj

 

 

 

My clutch is slipping!

It's most likely (99%) the clutch pedal adjustment!

I had a Clutch Masters Cyclone 3.5 installed and it slipped like hell, especially after warming up. It was down to the fluid going hydroscopic when the clutch pedal was adjusted too high! (Basically it means the fluid got hot and expanded throwing out the clutch and making it disengage a little).

 

If you have a Pre 1992 300 then your clutch master cylinder may need changing - The later cylinder has a bigger bore for the fluid and helps to solve this problem. The Nissan service bulletin recommends changing this part and the clutch return spring. Only replace these parts if clutch adjustment fails to fix the problem.

 

Adjust your clutch pedal so that the engagement is around the middle (between clutch up and down)... After many adjustments I found the best position was 1/3 way from the floor. This gave quick engagement and correct disengagement without crunching the gears, it also cured the hydroscopic problem.

 

Advice:

1. If it disengages near the top it's adjusted to high and it may well slip, especially after warming up.

2. Too near the bottom and it may not disengage correctly and crunch the gears or even lockup, especially when cold.

3. If the clutch position changes when the car warms up and is exaggerated when stopping at lights, (it can also feel more hard to press) then it's still too high.

4. Just two turns on the clutch adjustment nut can make a big difference.

5. Remember how far you've turned the nut and what the results were in case it needs several adjustments. If only I had done this!

 

Jez

 

The procedure is best done by laying on your back with your head placed just below the clutch pedal (so yeah, a good idea to shake the crud off those floor mats prior to this drill). With light in hand, look towards top of clutch pedal. There is a clevis with a rod (pointing towards front of car) and jamb nut attached. Loosen the jamb nut (14mm). See below for which way to rotate adjusting rod. Note that rod rotation direction is when viewed from the DRIVERS SEAT perspective.

 

BEHAVIOR: Engages too close to floor, may grind when putting into 1st or reverse.

REMEDY: rotate rod clockwise (rod is unscrewed from clevis making it longer).

 

BEHAVIOR: Engages too far away from floor, slipping may also be present.

REMEDY: rotate rod counter clockwise (rod is screwed into clevis making it shorter).

 

Working room is quite tight and a pair of long needle nose pliers work nicely for rotating the rod. A little rotation goes a long way so don't rotate more than several revolutions between test drives. If things are getting worse you are probably rotating the rod in the wrong direction. It is sometimes difficult to see if the rod is even turning since you can rotate it only about 1/10 revolution at a time (due to aforementioned tight working quarters). Take a thick tip felt pen and place a few marks on the shaft to help monitor rotation progress. And don't forget to tighten the jamb nut when through.

 

 

 

 

Might be worth putting this in FAQ.

think the clutch adjustment has solved the problem with clutch slipping thanks for the help.

 

dan.