Got a strange one on my drivers side window. It goes down as expected but is really slow and weak going back up. It's so weak that it can't close properly on the rubber and I have to open the door to get it to go the full travel.. It feels as though the motor isn't getting enough power.

 

I'm not sure what's causing this as it's fine powering down.

 

Any ideas?

Window amp, it seems the time of the year for it, im going to have to take mine out to re solder as im resorting to banging the door card to get the window to work lol

Window amp, it seems the time of the year for it, im going to have to take mine out to re solder as im resorting to banging the door card to get the window to work lol

 

I'll get it off and have a look :thumbup1:

Right, I've taken the amp apart and found a few dull joints. It's very hard to tell on the pic but all the ones marked with a red dot are dull when compared to the other joints.

 

 

 

Next job is to re-heat the dull ones and see if that fixes the problem.

those joints look ok

It's the picture Mark, when you look at them straight on in normal light they are a dull grey.

One of my repair threads from some time ago, hope it helps.

 

Jeff TT

 

 

Drivers side window issues? the window power amp controller has a habit of failing leading to an intermittent or non working window, lucky it is a very easy fix and free to boot if you can use a soldering iron.

 

The unit in question is fitted in the drivers door, it is held in place with a single 10m bolt and has one 8 way connector plugged in to it, roughly just off central towards the rear of the door.

 

Once removed the outer case needs easing off the lower connector area, the internal part then slides out in one piece.

 

Photo 1 shows the internal parts of the unit and the pcb its all mounted on removed from the outer case, the two relays to the left are the output up and down for the window motor and the steel busbars to the right are the connection interface to the door wiring loom and the source of the problems.

 

Photo 2 shows the unit end up where the connector goes in and again the source of most issues the unit suffers from.

 

 

 

Photo 3 shows the rear of the pcb and the area in red is where the connector busbars are soldered to, not easy to see the problem yet.

 

 

Photo 4 shows the problem in clearer detail, the pin solder has failed and this is the cause of the intermittent or no connection and the failed window operation.

 

 

Photo 5 shows the method of repair, by applying a soldering iron to the effect area the solder will reflow and make a new connection.

 

 

 

Photo 6 shows the final result, a nice solid connection that will get that window operating again, just put the unit back together and refit to the door.

 

Happy fixing :D

 

Jeff TT

Thanks very much for that Jeff. I haven't got any broken joints but won't hurt to resolder the bits you've popinted out as well.

Could this be the same for the passenger side?

Gotta admit my passager door window is a bit crazy,

If i use switch on passenger door it's fine, but using drivers side switch to shut passenger window it's slow like the battery is low.

Goes up and shuts fine but really feels like it's struggling.

There is no window amp in the pass door, it is routed through the window amp in the drivers door, or partially routed iirc.

All this but you said it worked but slow, wind window fully down and flood and wipe with WD40 all the edges the glass rubs against, you will notice loads of dirt, once cleaner it will fly up.

 

The passenger switch will not operate if the drivers switch is unplugged :thumbup1:.

All this but you said it worked but slow, wind window fully down and flood and wipe with WD40 all the edges the glass rubs against, you will notice loads of dirt, once cleaner it will fly up.

 

The passenger switch will not operate if the drivers switch is unplugged :thumbup1:.

 

I'll give it a go bud, but I replaced the glass and rebuilt the door at the end of last year so it shouldn't be that dirty (yet).

I'll give it a go bud, but I replaced the glass and rebuilt the door at the end of last year so it shouldn't be that dirty (yet).

 

My 1991 MX5 is a bit weary like you state but when I put a bit of spray about a couple of times a year, works a treat, you'll get it on the glass of course but don't worry about that :thumbup1:.

iirc There are adjusters on the runners themselves, maybe since your rebuild they have settled, they may need re adjusting.

iirc There are adjusters on the runners themselves, maybe since your rebuild they have settled, they may need re adjusting.

 

You implying that my work's are shoddy!!...lol

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's worth looking at mate, good idea :thumbup1: