After it is fully degreased, any traces of surface rust, scratches etc. removed, there will be parts with bare metal, what is the best primer to use on a combination of paint and bare metal? I'm also restoring a lambretta, so this will help with that too if anyone can recommend anything?

 

Cheers, Tudor.

if you have removed Rust kinda regardless even if u suspect it ... get a rust treatment on > Primer > Paint > Topcoat :)

After it is fully degreased, any traces of surface rust, scratches etc. removed, there will be parts with bare metal, what is the best primer to use on a combination of paint and bare metal? I'm also restoring a lambretta, so this will help with that too if anyone can recommend anything?

 

Cheers, Tudor.

 

2K regular primer/filler. apply several coats allowing each coat to flash off to avoid runs. Bout 4 good coats from a 1.4/1.8 nozzle will be good.

allow to harden overnite. LIGHTLY sand with 600G/800G to smooth out any imperfections.

Hit it with top coat.. If solid colour then 2K topcoat. or if metallic then appply basecoat and as soon as that has flashed off apply 2K clear coat. MS will be fine.

Etch primer for bare metal and If the old paint is still visible and you are going to use any 2k paint i would spray a sealer coat to avoid any reaction or etch primer the whole bay as it is 2k compatible, then as Pete suggested 2k high build primer will give you a rally good surface for base coat.

Etch primer for bare metal and If the old paint is still visible and you are going to use any 2k paint i would spray a sealer coat to avoid any reaction or etch primer the whole bay as it is 2k compatible, then as Pete suggested 2k high build primer will give you a rally good surface for base coat.

 

Personally i dont use etch primer on mixed surfaces. While it is designed to stick to bare metal well it doesnt adhere to old paint as well as 2K in my experience.

Modern good quality 2K primer is very good on its own and will cover any colour 100%. As its chemically cured too it sticks well to everything. Bare metal, old flatted down paint. fibreglass flatted properly, hair,skin, dogs paws etc etc:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

BTW its also toxic:huh:

Likewise painting over modern paints I dont use sealer coats. Its not normally neccessary.

And it doesnt adhere as good as 2K either.

Then again I am normally on a deadline for getting paint jobs done.

You appear to work at a more leasurely pace Graham so adding more coats isnt an issue for you!!:laugh::laugh:

 

All IMO of course:yes:

Lol, leisurely pace, so true. Trial and error i like to call it.

 

I tried a headlight panel with 2k primer after flatting the old paint, but it reacted badly and had to sand the lot off again, although i only used sealer on the rear bumper so far to stop reaction, i agree generally the 2k primer is great and adheres really well. I feel i sanded past the old paint rather than flatting, which is why i got the reaction.

Cheers, haven't prepped it yet, the only surface rust is the battery tray and under the clutch master cylinder where someone has spilt brake fluid in the past and it's bubbled the paint, and little bits where some seam sealant has lifted, but will I be re-seam sealing the whole bay, and neater than factory, I'll see how much bare metal there will be, and throw some pics up, cheers guys. It's not metalic, just a solid colour, have sprayed cars before, but no bare metal etc.