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The car starts fine from cold after about a mile its starts to stutter and lose power with a strong smell of petrol.its a 91 tt import.any ideas before I start pulling bits off would be most appreciated

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  • Author

Cheers,ill test the readings on the maf.by ecu temp sender do you mean the on at the front with 2terminal plug?

 

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Cheers,ill test the readings on the maf.by ecu temp sender do you mean the on at the front with 2terminal plug?

ECU temp sensor is the 2 pin plug on the top water pipe, also might be an idea to check intake pipes for splits / leaks as this can also induce over fueling as there is unmetered air entering the system

  • Author

did find a small vac leak and this appeared to fix the problem of the bad idle, althoughi think its masking a underlying problem as it still won't rev much past 3k and feels like its on the limit (i presume this is safety boost).Ecu test doesn't throw any faults up just says code 55 all clear?!?Today i take the car out after a slightly damp night and its stuttering again,i have a temp sensor on order and gonna test the ecu today.Is there anything else i could do while i'm playing with it??

yeah, check and clean all connectors (make sure you do the MAF one as well) some of the connectors are hard to get to and undo but patience and care will reward you.

 

it's critical to do regular PM on these cars... high performance = high maintenance (a car is like a woman.. lol) yes a 20 year old one !!!

 

so check/replace oil, air & fuel filters & oil on a regular basis.

  • Author

someone said a small bit of vasiline on the connectors will help stop air/moisture corrosion,i have looked into it and seems worth doing but i don't know anyone thats used it themselves.Is the fuel filter under alot of pressure?i feel it a silly questio,i was told its not as simple as just undoing it and changing?Thanks for the relpy though :)

  • Author

feared it could be,the one thats on it is 18 months old,replaced by the previous owner (£400 reciept!!) i'm guessing ill find one cheaper lol

wow 400quid ... if it does turn out to be the maf they can be priced up to 90quid .. but if its new ish to what u saying

would say Prob a bad wire/connection

I'm having the same problem! Engine wont give me no power after 2,500 - 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs (NGK), replaced fuel filter, tried different Maf and Ptu to no avail. Done a diagnostic when idle and under load, code 55! It's like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Smells like its running rich too. Had this problem since opening her up down the duel carriageway with way to much oil in the engine. Had loads of smoke exit the exhaust. Thought the engine had blown. Did not smoke on way back up duel carriageway but would not accelerate normally... Then took for mot and passed! lol! Since then, changed oil and filter, no smoke. Wondering if any sensors been damaged by excess oil? Thought I was the only one with this problem! It's so frustrating! :taz::taz::taz::glare:

did find a small vac leak and this appeared to fix the problem of the bad idle, althoughi think its masking a underlying problem as it still won't rev much past 3k and feels like its on the limit (i presume this is safety boost).Ecu test doesn't throw any faults up just says code 55 all clear?!?Today i take the car out after a slightly damp night and its stuttering again,i have a temp sensor on order and gonna test the ecu today.Is there anything else i could do while i'm playing with it??

 

This points to a wet MAF, have you got a nose panel with vents in it? also take the Air Filter and MAF off the car, inspect the filter to see if its wet / starting to decay, you need to clean the element inside (some will say how or search) the maf and make sure its dry, also just remember just because its only 18months old, doesnt mean it wont fail sooner, might just be one of those things, but while its off, inspect the MAF connectors / cable connector, get some contact cleaner on there and clean with a nail file.

 

If you need a second hand known working maf, i have one for sale matey.

  • Author

took the maf off yesterday and the temp sensor tested the sensor-working fine.put a hairdryer on conectors (nice and shiney no green) on the maf etc seemed to run better but still in saftey mode.Today back to normal,the nose panel does have vents in it so am guessing a damp issue somewhere hopefully.I have a maf coming this week used but tested £20 bargin lol,i agree just because its 18 months old means nothing logically

  • Author

i agree very frustrating just seem to be going round the engine chasing a shadow lol,sifting through the service history that came with mine its happened before and coil packs were changed,tps,maf,etc faults cleared but seem to reappear months later.seems as if the previous owner had similar problems

  • Author

changed maf today,blocked the front vents on the nose panel ticks over and runs like a dream,no fault codes either :).BUT still seems to be in safety mode and it won't pull,seems to get to about3k and backs off??gonna clean out the cone filter how do you treat it after washing it?is there a spray for these?

What filter do you have fitted? Ive come across a similar problem, where the filter was not allowing enough air to be metered, changed the filter to apexi type (copy) and idled nicely and revved well.

  • Author

dunno the filter type as it came with the car,i noticed when you rev the engine the 'y' shape intake pipe with the filter on does compress quite alot (as if your sucking on a partially blocked straw)which led me to think the filter may need cleaning or changing

  • Author

I only have error code 55 but months ago i had knock sensor code,thanks for the link.ill change the fuel filter anyway and probably the air one to

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