Hi all! :yes: Just took Z For M.O.T today and it passed with 2 advisories!! :clap::clap: The car has been off the road for 4.5 years so I am quite surprised!!! It is running quite rough though and I suspect one of the cylinders is not firing, although it seems to do this once its got up to full temp!! Once this starts to happen it does not want to rev very high? Any advice on what should be changed after standing for such a long time would be appreciated... Many thx...

 

Felt great to be back in the old girl!! :biggrin::biggrin:

After such a long period of inactivity, I would first check all of the connectors in the engine bay, they are prone to corrosion.

It will be a matter of disconnecting and cleaning each one, there are quite a few to do, so might take a while. Look out for those that are difficult to see such as the ones at the back of the engine on the right.

Hope that helps.

Thx Redwine300, I appreciate your advice and I will follow that through this week. Gonna change the plugs and considering an oil change! Although the oil on the dipstick looks as if it's just come out the bottle!! Very clean...

Any updates?

Not had time this week! Mad at work! Will try this weekend! Will post once I have a tinker!!! Thx m8!

well, first thing to do is the standard checks, with engine running remove each coil pack connector at a time and see if the engine note changes, if removing one doesnt change the engine tone, then you have found your dead cylinder, change the coil pack with a working one on the engine and see if the problem follows it, if it does replace the coil pack. if it doesnt and the same is happening, check to see if you have a spark on the spark plug

 

Remove spark plug from cylinder, place in coil pack with coil pack connected, ground the spark plug (rest it against the plenum) and check for spark at tip when cranking / engine running, if there is a spark then its not the plug, if no spark replace with known working one and try again, if no spark you need to do a continuity check between the coil pack and the PTU, if the wire has continuity, then next up is cleaning and checking the PTU connectors, if these are corroded or showing oxidisation, clean up and see if this sorts out the issue, if this doesnt, then it might be time to check a PTU replacement.

 

To help test the injectors, with engine running, place a long screw driver on the end cap of the injector and your ear on the handle, you should here a clicking sound, if this is all good your injectors are firing (this is only says the injectors are firing, not that they have the correct flow)

 

To test the CAS unit, remove 3x10mm bolts (best done with a timing light handy) remove the CAS and with engine off but ignition on, rotate the center spline of the CAS that connects to the Cam pulley, you should hear your injectors clicking away, if you cant or you hear missing clicks on rotation then the CAS needs replacing, if you hear unified clicking of the injectors the likely hood your CAS is working is a better one than if you don't. replace the CAS and reset the timing (15BTDC @ normal running engine temp)

 

thats the best way to start with rough running, also check your MAF connection and condition of Air filter if its been sat a while.

Thank you very much for all your excellent advice... It is very much appreciated! Once I get some free time I will do all these checks and report back to you guys!!! :cool3::confused1: just a quick question! For security I remove both the green relays! Unfortunately I dropped them both down a flight of concrete steps but did not think anything of it! I'm now wondering if I have had rough running since this happened? Just a thought!!! Cheers guys... :smartass::taz:

Edited September 13, 201213 yr by PaulR

They are pretty robust things, but you never know.

Easiest thing to do would be to replace them, that way you will know for sure.

Try posting in the wanted section, I am sure someone will have some replacements going cheap.

Vodkashots had some very good points, worth following them up along with a thorough check and clean of the remaining connectors etc'

Let us know how you get on when you get chance. If you get stuck I am sure someone will be more than happy to help.

 

ps... great news about the MOT by the way. Mine was off the road for a similar period and was a nightmare to get an MOT.

Edited September 13, 201213 yr by redwine300

Still waiting for free time and good weather! Watch this space!!!

Edited September 25, 201213 yr by PaulR

Any update yet?

Hi guys, been crazy at work so not had time until this weekend! Checked all connectors and changed spark plugs. Seems to of done the trick! On axle stands now awaiting new oil filter and oil! Can anyone recommend the best oil for a n/a? Thanks for all your help guys! It did the trick. :)

brand is up to you.

 

I use Castrol 15W40 Semi, but I guess 10W40 is also OK.

 

there are plenty of posts about this subject. :)

Hey guys, went with 5/30! All done and back on the road! :clap: only problem I have now it seems to die when I floor it, :blink: as if its being starved of fuel? :glare: Does this both at standstill and when moving! At low revs it's fine! Also, when the engine is cold, it will rev with no prolems at all! Any ideas would be appreciated. Many thx guys... :biggrin:

Edited October 25, 201213 yr by PaulR

Funny you should post this mine has started doing the exact same thing this morning, misfiring on 1 cylinder, I know which one just was getting dark when i got a chance to look.

Hey guys, went with 5/30! All done and back on the road! :clap: only problem I have now it seems to die when I floor it, :blink: as if its being starved of fuel? :glare: Does this both at standstill and when moving! At low revs it's fine! Any ideas would be appreciated. Many thx guys... :biggrin:

 

I would check the connection to the MAF unit. You will find it under the nose panel.

Hi Paulr, just a thought.... have you filled up with petrol since putting her back on the road?

Not sure but was told fuel could go off over time?

 

Russ

Hey guys, thx very much for your advice! It is all very much appreciated. I Have put £40 of fuel in since I took it for an MOT but thinking back, when I blasted it down the a dual Carriageway it did smoke alot, (white smoke) causing me to pull over, as I thought I had blown the engine this was due to the fact that there was too much oil in the engine. Since this has happened I'm not sure if I lost my power then or if I've lost power just recently just wondering if too much oil could have damaged any sensors? Since emptying oil and fitting new oil filter, no smoke at all and runs fine at lower revs. Just to add! Will rev to red line when started from cold but seems to play up when it warms up. Also tickover will settle to around 950 rpm. But starts at around 1350 rpm from cold, guessing auto choke working correctly ? Is this normal? I bought a conzult diagnostic off ebay, so will connect that up and see what results I get! anyone know where the 14 pin connector is? Once again guys your help and advice is very much appreciated thank you.

Edited October 27, 201213 yr by PaulR

Hey Guys and Gals! Ok here's an update! Changed fuel filter, connected conzult which showed fault 12. MAF sensor, cleaned connections and found a bad earth. Fault now cleared . Now reading 55. The car is still dieing when I accelerate. This is getting a bit annoying now! Just wondering what to check next. Drives fine at low revs. Below 2500-3000 revs. Any advice would be appreciated... Many Thx.

try another MAF meter. Most prabably the problem, before paying out for anything else. :yinyang:

if you need to borrow one im not far away,

That would be great dasla300zxtt, :clap: at least that will tick off one possible cause. Can you pm me. Much appreciated. :biggrin:

Edited November 4, 201213 yr by PaulR

thats the idea :) no probs, :thumbup1:

:yinyang: