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Featured Replies

that many not be the problem....

 

first have you done all the checks with connectors, clean air filter, TPS voltage and timing (with a light)?

 

if so, then easy to adjust the idle... back of the engine (near the batter)..

 

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Idle+Control

 

Fully warm up the car.

Turn off engine.

Disconnect the electrical connector for the AAC valve (yellow) points upwards.

Start car.

Turn the Base Idle Screw clockwise until the idle drops to about 650 RPM.

Reconnect the AAC valve's connector.

The idle should quickly raise, then gradually settle down to about 750 RPM.

  • Author

Thanks for reply mate,had a look can see the adjuster screw but no yellow connector block?i turned it clockwise and it did slow down a bit to 1000rpm then ran out of adjustment but no doubt it will rise again as i couldn't find the yellow connector block to disconnect lol.

does this help...

 

it's the connector with the yellow dot (the higher one when on the car).... the "T" piece is at the top (when on the car) and the unit points away from the battery, so you have to lift cables to see the connectors.

let me stress that turning the screw with the connector still on won't help at all!!!!

 

iaa1.jpg

 

but have you done all the other checks as well? if not you could just be making things worse.

 

you can just see (in the pic) the connector behind the screw...

 

iaa2.jpg

Edited by Medallion Man

  • Author

Thanks alot mate for that,will try have a better look later.The plenum has been off to change a faulty injector?so there may be something else causing it.

a common issue when putting the balance bar back on is getting one of the brackets trapped under it where it bolts down causing leaks... just check that as well...

make sure the fuel temp sender unit is connected and the connector is clean.... there is so much to check after that job... good luck..

 

so a must would also be the TPS voltage and maybe re adjust the throttle bodies linkage ... I think Jeff did a post on it.

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