hi

 

some help needed

 

so the story is the following just came back from a drive with wife and kids wasant racing it ,(Z as been working whit no issues for the last few months), parked, then had to go out again so had the car running until it warms up , then went to pull over just stumbled and died.

 

Still starts, engine runs for a few seconds then stumbles again and dies.

 

Checked errors on ecu have code 55

 

So today made checks on fuel pump, relay and fuse all good and filter is clean to.

 

PTU all good still had a spare one from last time that had connections issues on Z (so i would recognize the issue has i had it before).

 

CAS good to already cleaned all the connections just to be sure

 

Sparks are good

 

Then got a ECU from my mates z and issue is still there so not ECU problem

 

Then tought ok lets check and swap the MAF around and see if it is gone and for my bad luck no nop problem still remains,

 

then while doing the MAF swap he tried to put his hand on it and covered it to reduce the airflow and gess what? it will run and keep in fully working when reduce the airflow whit a book on front of the MAF ?

 

i dont think its a MAF problem has his Z runs whit my MAF ?

 

also if there is no covering of the airflow in front of MAF and i try to start whit gas on bottom will rev up to 3k revs but then will just stumble untils goes off

 

if just start it whit no gas z will rev normaly but when lowering revs will just start to stumble a few seconds later

 

just dont know were to search anymore desperated ? already tried kissing it and kick the tires to see if it was a witch but no that dosent work either?

 

HELP any ideas? desperated z owner:......( i want my z back :............(

 

Thanks for any help:...........(

Have you checked the rubber intake pipes going to and from the throttle bodies/intercoolers?

hi

 

yes have checked and there is no leeks i also had previouly had the z running whitout any pipes on it and it will run and keep revs.(other times when had other issues whit it)

do you have a timing light? reason i ask, ive had to change a CAS recently as the car kept cutting out, wasn't until i went to adjust the timing and tapped the cas to get it to move, that the car kept cutting out again, so changed the CAS and problem solved. you say you have checked the CAS, but how? just checking the connections on this faulty one didn't do anything, everything was clean as a whistle, but the CAS was still faulty.

 

Might be worth, undoing the 10mm nuts and just rotating it see if you can get the car to cut out, if thats not the issue, the timing light will come in handy to get it back to the correct timing.

 

Might not be your issue, but at least its something to think about.

hi

 

no dont have timing ligth on

havent moved CAS just cleaned the connectors on it , looking at previous marked marked position when last changed the timing belt its on correct place for my marks.

 

but if it was issue whit CAS it shouldand work ok while im cutting the air flow from MAF if im correct?

well when i first noticed the cutting out it was only under load when planting your foot, so changed the MAF, but it still did it, then it started doing it when cold, then when i checked the timing, and went to adjust the CAS thats when it would die, so first thought was check the CAS connection, but that was clean, so tried again with the timing and still it kept cutting out the moment i moved the CAS, i swapped the CAS over, and that was it no more cutting out.

hi

 

hum intresting back in a few min going now to try and move it brb

hi

 

ok so if i move the CAS will go off and wount even be able to switch on any more turning to rigth side of the engine moving to left side goes back to the same,

 

so i start it it goes to 1k rvs normal whit the usual noise while runing ok when revs stars adjusting back to 0.9k - 0.8k rvs were it normaly the pointer sits on it will just going down up to 0.5k revs then will just go to 0 then 0.5k rev to 0.5k until whit will eventualy witch off.

 

havent seen any timing ligth either caming on ? its a 90reg by the way maybe it dosent came whit it ?

 

i can rev it up to about 2k rev by gas on while revs going down and gas out while up and will evently goe to 1k revs and then i can rev it toaround 2k revs until it will cut out again

 

(can only get a CAS tomorow to test has its to late to ring to get 1 borowed in, will try it in any of cases to be sure)

hi

 

ok so if i move the CAS will go off and wount even be able to switch on any more turning to rigth side of the engine moving to left side goes back to the same,

 

so i start it it goes to 1k rvs normal whit the usual noise while runing ok when revs stars adjusting back to 0.9k - 0.8k rvs were it normaly the pointer sits on it will just going down up to 0.5k revs then will just go to 0 then 0.5k rev to 0.5k until whit will eventualy witch off.

 

havent seen any timing ligth either caming on ? its a 90reg by the way maybe it dosent came whit it ?

 

i can rev it up to about 2k rev by gas on while revs going down and gas out while up and will evently goe to 1k revs and then i can rev it toaround 2k revs until it will cut out again

 

(can only get a CAS tomorow to test has its to late to ring to get 1 borowed in, will try it in any of cases to be sure)

 

Timing light isnt on the zed its a device you use to set the timing using the lower crank pulley mark.

 

If the zed isn't cutting out when moving the cas left or right, put it back to where the marks are on the CAS that the 10mm bolts made and tighten them back up, CAS has been successfully ruled out.

this is whitout covering the MAF have it tested by covering it now , but while doing during day time this was when we were able to rev it has usual and nothing semed wrong whit it

Timing light isnt on the zed its a device you use to set the timing using the lower crank pulley mark.

 

If the zed isn't cutting out when moving the cas left or right, put it back to where the marks are on the CAS that the 10mm bolts made and tighten them back up, CAS has been successfully ruled out.

 

 

Oh ok thats what i was wodering i normaly use the original points or marks made by me to set the timing , by millage its 83k and timing belt was changed at 61k jsut i case it helps in any other ideas.

Have you checked...

 

1 - the rest of the connectors (i.e. ecu temp sender unit & fuel temp sender unit..)

2 - the connectors on the IAA (back of the block near the battery)

3 - TPS voltage.

4 - vac/boot pressure (and how)

Have you checked...

 

1 - the rest of the connectors (i.e. ecu temp sender unit & fuel temp sender unit..)

2 - the connectors on the IAA (back of the block near the battery)

3 - TPS voltage.

4 - vac/boot pressure (and how)

 

 

 

hi sorry for delay to get back to you got over busy at work

 

1 - the rest of the connectors (i.e. ecu temp sender unit & fuel temp sender unit..)

 

ok removed all the connectors they were a bit corroded so i cleaned them all including injectors

 

2 - the connectors on the IAA (back of the block near the battery)

 

yes ive cleaned them to also removed IAA and cleaned it whit petrol

 

3 - TPS voltage.

 

yes it fine 4.5v

 

 

4 - vac/boot pressure (and how)

 

vacum hoses you mean ?

 

ive looked arround and all of them are in the correct place no slipts on them

 

any more ideas?

 

Thanks

help still needed

 

already bougth another maf + another fuel pump + another ptu cleaned all conections help

im paying £ for any one that comes and figures out what it worng whit it ???

 

HELP NEED MY BABY BACK

right have you swapped the ecu temp sender unit?

if that is no good, it could be making the ecu think the car is still cold and over fueling but the rest of the engine is tying to run at temp and could cause it to stall (particularly an auto) and i don't think that would throw a code.

easy way to check is with conzult as that gets the temp of the ecu and not the gauge.

if not you can check resistance with a multi-meter, to warm it you could put it in hot water... ouch.. ouch... lol...

 

for the vac/pressure test on the induction / vac system:

 

you can make something up like this:

 

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.89

 

then put it in place of the air filter and pump air into it...

 

it should hold pressure... don't go high... 15psi is fine, if there is a leak you will now soon enough... it's just finding it after that.

hi

 

just checked the ecu temperature sender whit multimeter and it seams fine as resistance changes while puting it on hot water.

 

didint manage to get a compressor in will try and figure some one to borrow me 1 tomorow will give you update them:)

 

thanks