alright guys.. any of you FMIC boys have trouble with water temps? obstructs the flow to the rad, just wanted to know if you've had problems or not. anything to write home about?

In theory, fmic could cause complications with flow to the main radiator at speed, although Im not aware of anyone actually experiencing issues having fitted one. It makes no different at idle, and anyone experiencing overheating at idle has other cooling system problems.

 

rang my breaker mate and he has got one as well as a water pump not so bad after all

 

Thermostat is only about a Tenner new, and I would not fit a used waterpump. They are only around £80'ish brand new, for genuine OEM. (many aftermarket/pattern part pumps are inferior).

hi

see your point but if I can fit the replacement part second hand at no cost which identifys the fault then buy new when faults located

hi did not relise that there is two coolant sensors recon this may be the problem as rusty on spade conector thanks guys

hi

see your point but if I can fit the replacement part second hand at no cost which identifys the fault then buy new when faults located

 

yeh, but its the labour involved to replace, stripping down the front end of the engine to replace them.

 

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hi did not relise that there is two coolant sensors recon this may be the problem as rusty on spade conector thanks guys

 

The larger one is the ECU coolant sensor, and the single spade connector is the dash gauge.

In theory, fmic could cause complications with flow to the main radiator at speed, although Im not aware of anyone actually experiencing issues having fitted one. It makes no different at idle, and anyone experiencing overheating at idle has other cooling system problems.

 

 

 

Thermostat is only about a Tenner new, and I would not fit a used waterpump. They are only around £80'ish brand new, for genuine OEM. (many aftermarket/pattern part pumps are inferior).

 

Would have to disagree respectfully on the over heating on idle issue being other things.

 

The only thing left on my system to change is the rad and getting rid of that A/C radiator, my temps still creep on idle, not very fast, but enough to be concerned about, i have renewed all my coolant pipes, including the matrix pipes, both front radiator pipes, the lower rad pipe, the 2 x water by pass pipes for the turbos, small pipe between the heater matrix core feeds, replaced the water pump, even got rid of a over heating gearbox, block tested the engine 5 times and still it stays blue instead of going green then yellow, ended up flushing the engine 3 times, cleaned out the rad a few times, replaced my fan clutch, thermostat and rad cap. yet it still creeps on idle.

 

Considering that is pretty much the total of what the cooling system is, unless ive missed something, the only thing that is left, is lack of air flow through to the radiator on idle, soon as i start moving, its fine again and the temps drop. its had 4 coolant changes even going to a 50/50 mix of coolant / demineralised water. and the temp still creeps.

 

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small world :) cant believe we both live on queensway lol.. about 1/4 mile away :)

 

yep, lol still temped to go for a drive in about 10 mins see if your car is out haha

Hi Vod's,

Did you say you have a viscous coupling fitted?

If so, are you sure it is actually engaging? for a while I believed mine was until I checked it by carefully trying to stop it with a heavily gloved hand.

Turned out I could stop it quite easily once I had plucked up enough courage to try.

Another way to tell if it is, is the very audible roar! I think they are designed to draw something like 2500+ CFM.

Very noticeable and extremely effective.

Changed mine for a known good one and the difference was incredible. I could easily leave mine ticking over for ages on the drive with the weather really warm and the fan would keep the gauge just below half way.

I wish I knew how to post a vid so that I could demonstrate the differance between a fan free wheeling and engaged.

Edited July 22, 201213 yr by redwine300

looks like ecu coolant sensor gone move spades on sensor gets hot really quick move them around and it drops off

cleaned contacts

think it could actually inside the sensor

thanks to all

Fit big smic's instead, no problem then :).I removed the aircon condensor when I stripped the rest of the aircon off and dont have any overheating problems even when stuck in traffic.

Ive had an fmic for years now,done several dyno runs where air flow can be lacking,had it dyno tuned in summer and the temp stays constant,i could leave it idling for hours with no issues.

Would have to disagree respectfully on the over heating on idle issue being other things.

 

The only thing left on my system to change is the rad and getting rid of that A/C radiator, my temps still creep on idle, not very fast, but enough to be concerned about, i have renewed all my coolant pipes, including the matrix pipes, both front radiator pipes, the lower rad pipe, the 2 x water by pass pipes for the turbos, small pipe between the heater matrix core feeds, replaced the water pump, even got rid of a over heating gearbox, block tested the engine 5 times and still it stays blue instead of going green then yellow, ended up flushing the engine 3 times, cleaned out the rad a few times, replaced my fan clutch, thermostat and rad cap. yet it still creeps on idle.

 

Considering that is pretty much the total of what the cooling system is, unless ive missed something, the only thing that is left, is lack of air flow through to the radiator on idle, soon as i start moving, its fine again and the temps drop. its had 4 coolant changes even going to a 50/50 mix of coolant / demineralised water. and the temp still creeps.

 

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yep, lol still temped to go for a drive in about 10 mins see if your car is out haha

 

you think your fmic is blocking "flow" to your radiator at standstill ? :confused1:

 

If she's getting hot when idling then you DO have engine/cooling system issues. As Jimmer said, should be able to idle for hours.

Edited July 22, 201213 yr by Yowser

you think your fmic is blocking "flow" to your radiator at standstill ? :confused1:

 

If she's getting hot when idling then you DO have engine/cooling system issues. As Jimmer said, should be able to idle for hours.

 

The fan still needs to suck air in through the radiator, where else is it going to come from? and no i do not think my FMIC is block flow on idle, but the A/C rad is seriously effecting cool air getting to the radiator on idle.

 

Instead of saying "you do have engine / cooling issues" like ive already said, point me in the correct direction then, block test stays blue, the liquid isnt even 6 months old, all coolant hoses have been replaced, the water pump has been replaced (new), the thermostat has been replaced (new), the rad cap has been replaced (new), none of the water pipes are old any more, im not losing water, coolant has been replaced.

 

The only 2 things not changed on my coolant system, is the heater matrix, and my main radiator. that is it. so either the rad is fecked, hence lack of cooling efficiency, or the A/C rad is having an effect of getting air pulled through it.

Ive had an fmic for years now,done several dyno runs where air flow can be lacking,had it dyno tuned in summer and the temp stays constant,i could leave it idling for hours with no issues.

 

There's your answer mate ^^^^

 

I've had no problems with over heating either: several enlarged intakes on front bumper - ARC PAS cooler - Greddy 3 row fmic - Mahoosive Calsonic oil cooler - Koyo rad - Viscous fan - vented nose panel & bonnet = no noticeable increase in temps (driven or at idle)

 

if the Koyo was OEM or if it wasn't so well vented then it could obviously be a very different story, though currently I can honestly say that it's all good

Vod mate, I still think you need to rule out the fact that the fan is engaging correctly or not, it may seem to be but could be deceptive.

The difference between free wheeling and fully engaged is very noticeable.

lol shes tucked away in the garage vods...hiding... waiting for friday :ninja: