As per the title, what do you think about them, problems to look for when buying one and which model is preferable.

 

Thanks Paul

ECU issues is biggy.

 

Great car, great handling, quick, but not as quick as the Zed.

 

Basically the components used on the Earlier GTOs ECU had weak capacitors. I have seen GTO's blow pistons, become totally immobilised, missfire and have starting issues, because one or two capacitors have leaked on the ECU circuit board shorting it out.

 

There is a guy called the ECU Doctor who rebuilds ECUs replacing all the weak components. for around £300 when I last had it done.

 

The best mod on the GTO is the lightweight pulleys, a nightmare to fit, but well worth it, needed to remove drivers side front wheel, and transffer box for the drivetrain, so decided to drop gearbox and change clutch at the same time :D

 

Performance gains were brilliant.

 

I love the GTOs. Like I said not as quick as the Zed, and nowhere near as much of a kick. But a much "safer" feel whilst driving.

 

Most GTOs with issues relate back to the ECUs (Inc blown headgaskets).

 

 

Prefacelift, TT Manual is my preffered model I like the pop up lights, they suit the car much more imo. Plus you get more on the car as standard. (due to cutbacks on the 2nd edition)

pm indian_zx, really nice guy, he has one, he is on the gto forum, plus he loves zeds. sure he will give the pro's and cons.

I went out in the Z again this afternoon, think Im going to have to get a GTO as a 2nd car, for the bad weather. It drives amazing even in the snow and ice.

 

Will prob only get an NA GTO though, as no need for the extra power in the weather I will be driving it in. I just love the feel of them whilst driving. Keep my Z for "best" occassions lol

I had a GTO great car rear spoilers get problems but alot less problems than a zed i found. A nice drive too and the 4wd feel is great. All over a nice GT but performance wise cant beat a zed and therefore i dont think the prices are as high.

 

Sold mine and got back in a zed as the GTO was a bargain and only meant to be a temporary profit

Thanks for the input guys.

 

Paul

My father in law has a 95 GTO MR, which is basically the lightweight TT.

 

Its a lovely car, very sure footed and has great road presence, but i just prefer the zed.

 

He is looking at selling it soon aswell as he has just bought an XKR, will probably end up on PistonHeads classifieds

He is looking at selling it soon aswell as he has just bought an XKR, will probably end up on PistonHeads classifieds

 

Hi Nick, can you give me a heads up if he does put it up for sale.

 

cheers Paul

something you should check up on... I've been told that they are notorious for having chocolate gear boxes... (got a mate who had an issue with one and then did some investigation).

 

it might be work your while checking on one of their forums for issues with the manual gear boxes..

^^ Thanks for the heads up^^

 

Paul

hi i have a mk1 pearl white 3000gt as well as z tt

 

1st of all the 3000GT & GTO are slightly different in the way that they have different spec. 3000GT's have slightly bigger turbo's & more luxuries on them but because they are UK from factory they tend to be notorious for rust underneath especially as some are 20 years old. GTO's are imported from Japan & usually have spent much less time in the UK climate on salted roads. A GTO has slightly smaller turbo's & oddly will cost slightly more to insure.

 

I know many things have been said previously but here are some hints in list form. Some things are obvious for any car some are specific for this car but I've stuck 'em on the list anyway:

 

-Check for leaks underneath & around seals etc. look under the transfer case as well (a freshly cleaned engine is sometimes a sign of hiding leaks)

-Make sure Check Engine Light isn't on

-Make sure sport light isn't flashing (sign of fault with Electronic Controlled Suspension Models or faulty strut or after market struts or lowering springs)

-Check for proof of 60K service ( if not will have to be done as precaution & is expensive)

-Check PCV hoses & connection to intake bubble (hoses from the rocker covers! if badly fouled with oil evidence of blow by & possible piston damage)

-Insist on a cold engine to start (after it warms up there should be no ticking rattling or squeaking)

-Check to see the engine stability for worn mounts

-Check the car idles OK

-Check the oil pressure gauge at idle & make sure it's not too low (a lot of these older cars run low oil pressure)

-Check the temp. at idle is OK (usually sits at half way mark)

-Check for knackered turbo seals (take off the 2 pipes to the 'Y' next to the battery & feel for oil also look down the back of the intake plenum to where the black metal intercooler pipe goes, around the seal is usually full of oil if the seal's gone)

-Check the front & rear aero spoilers activate with the switch

-Look at the state of the oil (these cars are supposed to have an oil change at 4000-5000 miles)

-Check the fluid in the master cylinder looks OK

-Have a look at the brake discs for rust & scars

-Look at the brake pads & see how worn they are & see if the wear is even

-Look at the pipes to the callipers & make sure they're not brittle or cracked or evidence of fluid leaks, make sure the bleed screws are OK & have their covers

-Have a look at the coolant double check that looks OK

-Check if the car has working immobiliser (they do go faulty & burn out like mine did)

-Check that the car has insurer approved certificated for cat.1 immobiliser, alarm & tracker (my insurer insisted on it & it makes insurance a hell of a lot cheaper)

-Check the sump hasn't had a bang coz a lot of cars get lowered & catch the sump

-Check the car has the right wheels on coz people fit after market ones from other cars which have the wrong rolling radius at 25.7" thereabouts (wheel spacers are a good indicator of the wrong wheels & wide spacers give rattling issues at speed)

-Check the bumpers, headlight & bonnet aren't slightly misaligned coz the slightest front end bump on these cars throws it all out of place

 

When you take the car for a spin:

 

-Check for wind & road noise coming through the corners of the front windows at speed (a lot of older cars have this, like mine)

-Check gears engage well & clutch is light (2nd gear synchro is notorious on these cars)

-Make sure the brakes are OK with no judders or binding pistons (the brakes on these cars should be good, some say Mk.1 have poor brakes but mine were superb)

-Give it some beans & listen for the turbo's (make sure there is no whining or clattering, the turbo gauge in the centre is only an indicator of what the ECU thinks it should be & not a true figure of boost)

-Make sure there is no smoke coming out of the exhaust & make sure there is no coolant smells from the exhaust

-If a Jap model see if the speedo has been converted from KMH to MPH (check for proof it's been delimited, 112mph on the Jap cars not a bad thing if it hasn't)

-Check that the cruise control works

-Check that the active aero works on auto

 

Well that's all I can think of but most of it's basic stuff really. If possible arrange with a local garage close to the viewing if you can use their ramp for 10 minutes to have a good look underneath. Then you can check exhaust condition, have a good look at the transfer car & rear diff, check for leaks, check the horizontal suspension i.e. roll bars. tie rods.

 

Anyway mate good luck with it but if you get stuck loads of guys on here will help

Will do chap, Ill prob see him this weekend and ill see what his plans are

I think there CRAP! bought one before the zed, never again bought for £2000 sold for £650. Autobox blew up, ecu burnt out wanted to much money one repair or new so got rid!

Hey Paul,

 

Father in law is now ready to sell his GTO. Are you still looking? If so, i can forward you his contact number and you can make contact directly

 

Thanks

 

Nick