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yes there is, apparently it defaults to 5 btdc, after (iirc from what jeff said) you need to adjust the timing once the conversion has been done, when the engine temps are between 60 and 70 degrees or something like that.

They should both be the same - 15 btdc idle @ normal operating temp.

 

However, if were talking Manual conversion then if you don't Earth the neutral switch after doing the conversion then the ECU thinks the car is in gear and raises the Closed throttle idle timing to 25 btdc.

 

Its not an issue, you can leave it or you can earth it.

note : If you dont earth the Neutral switch then dont try changing the base timing back to 15 btdc, or you'll retard by10 degree through the entire range.

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the above?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Andy

 

 

Are you sure its not 'Thanks in retard'? :lol:

note : If you dont earth the Neutral switch then dont try changing the base timing back to 15 btdc, or you'll retard by10 degree through the entire range.

 

Just to check then mate, I have done a manual conversion, and ignored the neutral switch, but, have set my base idle timing to 15 degrees, should I not have done that? Should I set it back to 25?

 

Cheers, Tudor.

hi what colour is theneutral switch wire where do i find it as i havent adjusted my timing for my conversion and would like to try this

  • Author
Your welcome sexy chops lol

WTF?!!

 

Are you sure its not 'Thanks in retard'? :lol:

 

Very good!!

 

LOL!!

Edited by Andy Isherwood
Stupidity!

Just to check then mate, I have done a manual conversion, and ignored the neutral switch, but, have set my base idle timing to 15 degrees, should I not have done that? Should I set it back to 25?

 

Cheers, Tudor.

 

Set the actual timing so that it matches what you see on a conzult/datascan/whatever.

Pretty sure it reads 25 degrees on consult, although I haven't looked at it since altering it, but the CAS timing and consult timing are separate.

hi what colour is theneutral switch wire where do i find it as i havent adjusted my timing for my conversion and would like to try this

 

The neutral switch is the last of the three switches on the end of the box. It's the one closest to the prop shaft. I used a bit of the manual loom and made up a lead that connected to pin 44 on the ECU and a ground. The other end plugged into the switch iirc it doesn't matter which way round you wire it. Makes setting the timing so much easier...

 

HTH

Edited by Steams

Pretty sure it reads 25 degrees on consult, although I haven't looked at it since altering it, but the CAS timing and consult timing are separate.

 

They should match perfectly.

Have been here before, but at the risk of sounding like a complete nugget, what should it be set to after a manual conversion and the neutral switch not connected?

Have been here before, but at the risk of sounding like a complete nugget, what should it be set to after a manual conversion and the neutral switch not connected?

 

I think it should be left at 25deg if you haven't earthed the neutral pin on the ECU, or 15deg if you have earthed it.

If the timing was set wrong, so set to 15 when it should have been at 25 how would the car be affected? Would it drive horrible?

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

well, having just done this and ignored the neutral switch, the car was actually horrible until i set the timing (with timing light via crank pulley) to 15dbtc. since doing the timing with a timing gun and getting it back to 15dbtc, the car now idles smoothly and still accelerates like a bull out of a china shop.

 

So, question is how should it be if pin 44 isnt earthed, considering i noticed a considerably better idle and response after manually setting it, consults still showed 25, timing on crank showed 15.

 

Before timing change and just after conversion, timing light showing 25, consults showing 25.

Edited by vodkashots

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