I will try and explain this problem and everything I have tried to fix it.

1. The car will not start but turns over.

2. Occasionally between starting attempts the car makes a cough as if its going to start then continually turns over with nothing.

3. Fuel pressure, Compression, Spark, Injectors, Airflow meter, Ignition Amplifier all changed and fault remained.

 

These next two point may enlighten someone to recognize this problem.

 

4. I remove the intake pipes from the inter cooler to the throttle flaps and spray some easy start into either of the flaps then attempt to start it the car starts purring perfectly and runs with no problem obviously until the easy start burns off.

5. If I block both intakes off completely after spraying a little easy start into the plenum and I take the throttle position sensor off and turn it fully to simulate full throttle then start the car it will run at 1500 rpm perfectly and until I switch it off...?????

 

I hope someone can shed some light on this problem

 

Many Thanks in advance

Hi,

 

for starters the post is in the wrong place... Mods please move this to the "HELP & ADVICE" section....

 

not sure but was the car running OK at any point and what did you( or anyone) do to it before this problem.... to me it sounds like the TPS is on wrong or broken, have you checked the reading on it?

 

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.221

moved, are you sure your injector rail is actually firing fuel into the cylinders. but i also agree with the above.

Thanks for the replies, I am going to set the TPS tomorrow and will see what happens, thanks again

Easystarts a bit brutal on a zed!!!!.......more for old tractors and dumpers that stuff!.....knocks hell out of your top end :(

I cant be sure the fuel is actually getting into the engine, I know the fuel pressure is correct to the rail and the injectors are clicking, I have taken the crank position sensor off the engine and when I turn it (engine not running) you can here all six injectors click to one full rotation of the crank sensor.

remove the fuel pump fuse from the small fuse box, crank engine, remove spark plug see if there is any wetness to the spark plug / strong smell of fuel, the injector should still fire and the pressure in the fuel line will be enough to put fuel on your spark plug.

 

You could also try this, remove all 6 spark plugs, leave it 2 hours for the cylinders to dry, put them in, prime the system (turn ignition on and off a few times, listen for the fuel pump) then try starting the car.

 

also, have you done a compression test? might be a good idea.

compression test was fine on all cylinders, thanks for all the advice so far, I will do some more work sunday and report back, Thanks again

has the fuel lines been of by any chance ... ? Make sure filter fuel line go's to Left regulator ... and Right Pressure regulator go's to the fuel return pipe

Edited June 15, 201213 yr by MarkDerby

TPS checked and middle wire is .46 volts with ignition on, when I crank the engine it rises to .55 volts

I have the airflow meter disconnected as the air intakes are open, she tries but does not start, I spray carb cleaner in the inlet and she runs perfectly until the carb cleaner burns off???

Ive disconnected the TPS and bridged the white wire and red wire, therefore putting 5 volts down the white wire back to the ECU, a little drop of carb cleaner and she runs at 2000 rpm smoothly, no throttle open. Im wondering if either not enough fuel being injected, or too much air getting in from somewhere, checked all pipes on the plenum and all fine.

where in Cardiff are you?

Near Bridgend just off J36

Ah... lol... not quite Cardiff... a bit far for me, only up here when I work and doing 12 hours shifts....

 

right....

so you can get it to run but only if you block both intakes off completely after spraying a little easy start into the plenum and I take the throttle position sensor off and turn it fully to simulate full throttle then start the car it will run at 1500 rpm perfectly and until you switch it off..

 

so looks like an issue with the right amount of fuel getting in.... at full throttle it should rev higher than 1500...

 

have you got a pic of the engine, it might help to diagnose.... also try disconnecting both fuel regulators ( & block off the vac lines to the plenum).

 

also, did you get the car like this or was it working at some stage and got worse or did someone do something to it?

I will post some pictures now, I bought the car with a faulty engine and this engine is a replacement from a breakers, the old engine run fine but bottom end knocking

looks like adding photos is easier said than done any ideas

ah, look in the FAO section, there is a write up on it... you need to host the pic or photobucket or somewhere like that and then put the link in using the insert image icon.

 

you could even do it from facebook...

http://s1073.photobucket.com/albums/w386/johnlegs/

Did you get to hear the breaker running before the swap over?

 

Also, in you photo, there seams to be a pipe missing from your ballance bar. Opposite the yellow one.

(or is that by passed somehow and has been blanked?)

Edited June 17, 201213 yr by redwine300

all the pipes are on the balance bar, possibly not seen on picture

no i didn't hear it running before purchase

right so you've got no fuel regulators at all... but that would mean that any fuel would just go right back to the tank. .. no pressure in the rail.. better off blocking the return off (temp only!! just to get it going)

 

I t think the accelerator cable looks like its on the wrong link... I don't know exactly how that would cause an issue but that's what I think...

Get it proper set up with fuel dampner and fuel regulator first and give it a try.

If it still does not work check spark on the coils.

Open the fuel line and prime the car and see if there comes fuel.

If you dont have it running by wednesday I can try and come give you a hand after work. Ill bring my zed so we can set up the fuel lines etc. Im in ascot today and wont be back till 11pm tonight. Also probably better to have the water pipes on and filled with water as the temp sensor should really be connected.

it wont fire if there is no fuel regulator ...

fuel will just flow pass