rear speakers seem not to work all leads connected on my sterio is thi a common prob or isthere somting else underlying

have they been working ?

 

as i know some zeds have a small amp in the rear of the car

Like Mark says, if you have the Bose speakers they have their own amp. Quite common for these to fail.

Has someone played with your fade adjustment

Use a spare speker that works just to test if there is a signal to the speaker or not

can u tell me where the rear amp is please

located under the plastic trim in the boot on the right hand side ... ( mounted to the wheel arch )

 

 

looks like this

Edited April 4, 201213 yr by MarkDerby

located under the plastic trim in the boot on the right hand side ... ( mounted to the wheel arch )

 

 

looks like this

 

cheers mark will check tomorrow take it they wont work without it or is there another way round it

if it has packed up ... you can take 2 new feeds from back of head unit on rear output and wire directly to speakers ..

 

the main reason there is an amp in the back of the car ... for getting the Old head units louder .. as 10+ years ago car radios was only outputting

10w per channel at the best ... now we have head units doing 50w per channel far better

no real need for the amp any more

if it has packed up ... you can take 2 new feeds from back of head unit on rear output and wire directly to speakers ..

 

the main reason there is an amp in the back of the car ... for getting the Old head units louder .. as 10+ years ago car radios was only outputting

10w per channel at the best ... now we have head units doing 50w per channel far better

no real need for the amp any more

 

so if theres no amp is it the speakers that are duff then

wouldnt say so ... but u said u connected another speaker to the connection right ? ... if the new speaker didnt work that would rule out your speakers not working regardless of the amp in the car or not ..

 

No amp but still no sound = Wire problem or main head unit starting to go funny ...

 

check your fader option hasnt been put fully to ( front )

would say so ... but u said u connected another speaker to the connection right ? ... if the new speaker didnt work that would rule out your speakers not working regardless of the amp in the car or not ..

 

No amp but still no sound = Wire problem or main head unit starting to go fully ...

 

check your fader option hasnt been put fully to ( front )

 

got a sony head unit in it is set to central tried diff head unit eg kenwood and still no sound is it a forgone conclusion that the car will have an amp its a uk spec car

UK/Jap LWB only think it was an option.... but standard for bose units ..

 

i wouldnt bother trying to track down another one just wire direct from your head unit to back speakers

 

the amp is only 25w per channel anyways your head unit will be more

The bose speakers connect after the amp you can bi-pass the amp and connect directly to the speaker it will work the rhs speakers wiring is normally paired to the left ie 4 cable to the right 2 to the left

UK/Jap LWB only think it was an option.... but standard for bose units ..

 

i wouldnt bother trying to track down another one just wire direct from your head unit to back speakers

 

cheers mark will check tomorrow and post resuts

theres an easy way to check if your speakers are ok or not .

connect a small battery between the terminals on your speaker . if it makes a clicking noise your speakers fine . no sound and your speaker is dead.

theres an easy way to check if your speakers are ok or not .

connect a small battery between the terminals on your speaker . if it makes a clicking noise your speakers fine . no sound and your speaker is dead.

 

is it liable that both speakers can pack up together

There is another potential answer here......

 

.....the speakers and rear amp might actually be fine; but if you have wired in your new head unit using the "Autoleads" adaptor to connect the ISO plugs to the Nissan loom, you might find that the power feed for the rear amp is not actually connected. Common problem this - I had it with both my UK-spec Zs when fitting an aftermarket head unit.

 

Simple fix was to splice the live feed for the amp into the live feed for the electric aerial; so that both are now connected to a reliable power source! Problem solved for me as both speakers and amp worked fine thereafter!!

 

Richard:chef:

There is another potential answer here......

 

.....the speakers and rear amp might actually be fine; but if you have wired in your new head unit using the "Autoleads" adaptor to connect the ISO plugs to the Nissan loom, you might find that the power feed for the rear amp is not actually connected. Common problem this - I had it with both my UK-spec Zs when fitting an aftermarket head unit.

 

Simple fix was to splice the live feed for the amp into the live feed for the electric aerial; so that both are now connected to a reliable power source! Problem solved for me as both speakers and amp worked fine thereafter!!

 

Richard:chef:

 

cheers richard can u tell me where to look for the live leads for both the aerial and amp and what what colour they are

cheers richard can u tell me where to look for the live leads for both the aerial and amp and what what colour they are

 

Now you're asking mate, I did my last one 3 years ago......!

 

.......But you should be able to trace it from the ISO head unit wiring, using its wiring diagram. Assuming you have purchased the adaptor cables for connecting up to the OEM plugs behind the dash (rather than just cutting and splicing) that is.

 

Follow the designated aerial feed from the after-market radio, down through the plugs etc to see which wire in the car's loom it meets - that is your live feed. Then from the wires/plug on the car loom side, there will be one connector which does not have an equivalent wire from the radio/ISO/adaptor cable meeting it. That is your power supply to the amp.

 

Using a small length of wire and a couple of Scotchlock connectors, join the aeriel supply from the radio side, to the amp feed on the car loom side (that way you know exactly what they are - and can simply sever the connection if at come point you re-fit the OEM head unit when you sell the car). Hope that makes sense.....

 

Richard:cool3:

Now you're asking mate, I did my last one 3 years ago......!

 

.......But you should be able to trace it from the ISO head unit wiring, using its wiring diagram. Assuming you have purchased the adaptor cables for connecting up to the OEM plugs behind the dash (rather than just cutting and splicing) that is.

 

Follow the designated aerial feed from the after-market radio, down through the plugs etc to see which wire in the car's loom it meets - that is your live feed. Then from the wires/plug on the car loom side, there will be one connector which does not have an equivalent wire from the radio/ISO/adaptor cable meeting it. That is your power supply to the amp.

 

Using a small length of wire and a couple of Scotchlock connectors, join the aeriel supply from the radio side, to the amp feed on the car loom side (that way you know exactly what they are - and can simply sever the connection if at come point you re-fit the OEM head unit when you sell the car). Hope that makes sense.....

 

Richard:cool3:

 

cheers richard will have a go this morning and let u know

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61825&d=1321914621

 

Is this any help?

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61825&d=1321914621

 

Is this any help?

 

cheers but comes up with invalid link attachment

Now you're asking mate, I did my last one 3 years ago......!

 

.......But you should be able to trace it from the ISO head unit wiring, using its wiring diagram. Assuming you have purchased the adaptor cables for connecting up to the OEM plugs behind the dash (rather than just cutting and splicing) that is.

 

Follow the designated aerial feed from the after-market radio, down through the plugs etc to see which wire in the car's loom it meets - that is your live feed. Then from the wires/plug on the car loom side, there will be one connector which does not have an equivalent wire from the radio/ISO/adaptor cable meeting it. That is your power supply to the amp.

 

Using a small length of wire and a couple of Scotchlock connectors, join the aeriel supply from the radio side, to the amp feed on the car loom side (that way you know exactly what they are - and can simply sever the connection if at come point you re-fit the OEM head unit when you sell the car). Hope that makes sense.....

 

Richard:cool3:

 

well done richard job sorted all 4 now working many thanks

well done richard job sorted all 4 now working many thanks

 

You're welcome - I'm pleased it was something simple mate......

 

.....as most things aren't on a 300zx!!!

 

Richard:winkiss: