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The heaters in the car just arent getting very hot. Does this mean the heater matrix have gone?

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

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Matrix could blocked or restricted, or a water leak somewhere else that has lowered the water level in the Matrix

  • Author

Don't think there'll be a leak. the engine has just goe back in and Phil has been checking it after every drive for leaks etc. And it was crap before he got it too.

 

Im not sure how I would check for a block???

 

The air blows warm just not hot so to speak.

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

What you need is a nice tartan blanket on your lap Lee :clap:

 

No in all seriousness as Mikey as said, if your thermostat as not been changed for a while you need to stick a new one in and then go from there :yes:

I just got one delivered from Zedworld for £20.

 

If that fails your heater matrix is probably blocked so you can pull it out and try and clean, or get another one or there is an option that Vodkashots told me about which is from a Nissan Primera from a certain year ('99?)I think it was, that fits and is alot cheaper than a new Nissan item.

I just got one delivered from Zedworld for £20.

 

If that fails your heater matrix is probably blocked so you can pull it out and try and clean, or get another one or there is an option that Vodkashots told me about which is from a Nissan Primera from a certain year ('99?)I think it was, that fits and is alot cheaper than a new Nissan item.

 

think its 96 bud, but you need to change over the pipe work so it fits. (heater matrix)

You can flush the matrix, by removing the 2 pipes at the rear of the engine, rather than from the bulkhead using a hose.

You need to check if the matrix valve is opening, you need to get your head right down near the clutch and look at the top of the transmission tunnel. As you raise the temp on the ac pod you should see the cable move to open/close the valve.

 

Normally if the matrix is fubarred then you will generally get a leak and a burnt water smell in the cockpit and steamy front screen.

spot on a groover said. make sure you dont split the rubber pipes as they get brittle with age :)

 

Oh yeah and i stuck i hose pipe in one end. loads of crud came out :)

Or if it's just been refilled, air lock ?

 

I wondered that too!!

 

Jeff TT

you know i have had my rad out so many times. Had loads of plenum leaks and never had an airlock and ive never had my front raised when i fill it?

you know i have had my rad out so many times. Had loads of plenum leaks and never had an airlock and ive never had my front raised when i fill it?

 

Fully agree, having done hundreds of cambelts many whilst owners wait can say that air locks should not be a problem if the filling proceedure is adhered to, unfortunately it often is not, especially putting the heater on 40 deg to open the heater matrix valve.

 

Jeff TT

cool i thought i was the odd one out. I had to replace the divers side turbo water pipe once on my holliday the 2nd day in. bought a cheap socket set some long pliers and some pipe. never had a problem then either :lol:

  • Author

So what should I do to check any possible air lock? Turn the car on with the rad cap on and let it run for a bit with te air con on at 40?

 

Mind from memory I don't think it was that hot before it went off the road.

 

Thanks,

Lee

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

I have unblobked a few heater matrix things lol i usualy use an air line and blow it through but make sure u dont put too much pressure through it ;)

Fully agree, having done hundreds of cambelts many whilst owners wait can say that air locks should not be a problem if the filling proceedure is adhered to, unfortunately it often is not, especially putting the heater on 40 deg to open the heater matrix valve.

 

Jeff TT

 

My airlock wasnt an airlock as such, it was the rear pipes on the engine to matrix that were so old, they had tiny holes in them, enough to get air in, but not enough to leak water out. so when the car came up to temp the airlock would move to the rad so id get heat out of the matrix, but give it some welly and the airlock would move back into the matrix causing me to start over heating. so i highly doubt he has a airlock, its most likely either a clogged matrix or sticky valve.

 

I have unblobked a few heater matrix things lol i usualy use an air line and blow it through but make sure u dont put too much pressure through it ;)

 

Use a hose and airline to blast water through the matrix, thats what i did and it cleared out all the crap (which was horrendous lol) the valve if in working order will open due to the pressure and reclose after. my heater is now working how it should with out the car over heating.

 

Bird my first port of call if i was you, and if your car isnt over heating, would be disconnect the pipes at the rear of the engine, if they leak coolant out, then you have a sticky valve or clogged matrix, get a hose on it and flush it through BOTH ways. you will be surprised how much crap can build up in that small little radiator (heater matrix)

 

If your car is over heating as well as giving luke warm air, id say its more airlock orientated, but if it is an airlock the air will move between the heater matrix and engine block if you give it some revs with the car up to temp, as the pump pulls the water through the engine and gives a suction effect at the heater matrix hoses.

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