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I'm not stopping at just spraying the inner dial surround :D

 

These will get the full treatment - silver and gunmetal grey with a ridiculous amount of lacquer and smooth strokeable finish ;p

.... yes, it's going to take a while lol ::rolleyes1:

 

The OCD bit. Because It is NOT an automatic and the rear wiper CAN'T go on because of the spoiler that's going on the car, I really hate seeing functional switches and displays that are not used so I have to 'delete' those too :)

 

Where the cruise control switch was, there is a nice bright 8mm wide beam blue LED behind it so I'd appreciate ideas on lighting that up eg with a 'NISSAN' logo. The switches are actually clear plastic when you rub them down :) Vinyll Nissan sticker / spray over/remove at the end?... sounds tricky. Cut out a hole, get some diffuser paper/and vinyl?

 

 

 

First fun... completely dismantled pods :)

pods-stripped.jpg

 

Bit of fibreglassing.... I'm now onto a bit of body filler and more sanding.

pods-firstfg.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately the sexy little Apexi turbo timer I took a chance on ordering off Ebay that I was going to build in just doesnt work so I'm going ahead without it. :) We got half the price back off the supplier because they REALLY dont want the bad feedback, fingers crossed we can get it to work. I hope so, because even though I have to fix the 'brand new' cosmetic damage, because the digits light up in blue.

Edited by Mrs HollowPoint

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Looking forward to seeing the progress and finished product with this mate

I think the pods look much more symmetrical with the rear wiper control gone

 

No need for the switch eh..........got ya, you are converting it into a vert :detective:

Well..... I thought I'd grab some cheap pods off Ebay and WOW those ebay pics are deceptive lol.

 

I got 2 of them but I reckon the amount of modification they will need, will be less effort to just fabricate ones from scratch. :) Check this out..

 

hugetacometer1.jpg

hugetacometer2.jpg

chop the base off and shape it in ...

 

lol, yeh, I knew I would need to do that, but I guess you have to be here to see the ridonculous size of them lol. Look at the depth on those buggers! :)

 

The plastic is really thick and it's surprising what a few millimetres off the mounting radius can make so I'm going to wait for the actual gauges to turn up (hopefully tomorrow).

 

.... Still haven't found the Apexi screen filter btw :(

:thumbup:

Its differant might look a bit like this

 

Mickey-Mouse-Wallpaper-mickey-mouse-6526853-800-600.jpg

 

:lol:

 

:thumbup: COOL...... I wanted a mickey mouse on my aerial too but it won't stay on when it retracts :headvswal

 

 

 

(... I know what you mean lol)

you could all ways cut a facia out of wood/mdf shape it around the gauge then bond/glue it so it sets in place ..

then get some lycra/fabric and stretch it over and then do your wonders with resin/fiberglass

you could all ways cut a facia out of wood/mdf shape it around the gauge then bond/glue it so it sets in place ..

then get some lycra/fabric and stretch it over and then do your wonders with resin/fiberglass

 

Aye, I can make them. I wont be making them any bigger than they need to be though so awaiting the actual articles to arrive.

 

It seems Lee (mellowyellow) is SUPER keen on wanting me to part with my yellow dash mod so I may be hashing ideas/delaying more yet. :)

Zcentre do "frog eyes" gauge pods, they may be closer to what you're after?

 

To be honest, I'm not sure what I'm after at the moment. I turned to Alex and asked him if you could pick out the most important dials you want to see when you are gunning it, what would they be. So I have 2 dials coming that I think will look best. I don't want them in the A-pillar anyway. .... Might have to wait and see at this point :)

Imo the two most important gauges are oil pressure and water temp, due to the oem ones being a bit crap. You can then add other stuff like boost etc.

On a track, I want to see boost pressure and oil temperature tbh.

 

Yes I also want aftermarket water temp and oil pressure guages, but on the track, those two things above are what is likely to fubar your engine, more than anything else.

 

If oil temp goes too high, bye bye engine if you're not careful, same with boost, if it's spiking all the time, you need to back off and fix it, oil pressure not much you can do about really, unless it's a really bad leak that's occurred, or your pump died, in which case you MAY be able to pull over in time and save it, if you're REALLY lucky.

 

Another thing that can be useful is exhaust gas temperature, but I don't intend on tracking it THAT much to be worried about it just yet, that may change later though.

Another thing that can be useful is exhaust gas temperature, but I don't intend on tracking it THAT much to be worried about it just yet, that may change later though.

 

Why is that mate? Doesn't it give an indication of whether your air fuel ratio is right, in which case an A/F ratio gauge would be better although im guessing more expensive?

Why is that mate? Doesn't it give an indication of whether your air fuel ratio is right, in which case an A/F ratio gauge would be better although im guessing more expensive?

 

You really need wideband for an accurate AF reading. The cheaper gauges just give you an idea of the ratio really.

You really need wideband for an accurate AF reading. The cheaper gauges just give you an idea of the ratio really.

 

Can a normal gauge just be connected to the O2 sensors then?

 

How does it work if you have a wideband but each cylinder bank is exhausted separately from the manifold to the back box?

Can a normal gauge just be connected to the O2 sensors then?

 

How does it work if you have a wideband but each cylinder bank is exhausted separately from the manifold to the back box?

 

Standard gauges are normally connected to the o2 sensor signals from the ECU, I used an on-off-on switch so that I could switch between left and right sensors. As for wideband, I've already given the sum of my knowledge on it mate i'e I haven't got a clue lol.

To be honest, I'm not sure what I'm after at the moment.

 

 

Typical women :whistling:

i got all the gauges to wire up to ..

 

Turbo

Oil Pressure

Oil Temp

Water Temp

Wide band Fuel mix

Exhaust Temp

 

seen the narrow band wired up to normal o2 sensor the needle is all over the place

so i opted for the wide band one and fit another sensor on the manifold

i got all the gauges to wire up to ..

 

Turbo

Oil Pressure

Oil Temp

Water Temp

Wide band Fuel mix

Exhaust Temp

 

seen the narrow band wired up to normal o2 sensor the needle is all over the place

so i opted for the wide band one and fit another sensor on the manifold

 

Whats the wideband kit you have? When you say another sensor you mean in addition to the sensor the ECU reads from? Does your wideband have a sensor for each bank? Please forgive all the questions im not familiar with A/F sensors and want to know how an aftermarket kit would be set up :hammer:

the one i have is from Pro gauge and yes all wide band gauges need to have a sensor fitted to the car ..

and i will only have one fitted on one side

Cheers for the education guys, two last questions.... When a car is mapped on a rolling road will they use twin O2 sensors or just one up one exhaust?

Typical women :whistling:

 

 

I just don't want it looking like the flight deck on an experimental aircraft ... YUK! :)

 

DSCN5218.jpg

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