anyone know what the oil pressure guage should read on tickover when warm? and when just normal driving say on the motorway at 60-70?

oh and i cant seem to get an accurate oil level on the dipstick which is weird it just seems to smear all over the indicator

I think the oil pressure when fully warmed up should be no less than 11psi at idle and somewhere around 65psi at 3000rpm.

Oil pressure at 60-70 would depend upon which gear you are in.

sounds about right tbh it seems to randomly drop to what looks like 5-10psi now and again on idle

stock OEM oil guages are notoriously crap mate and shouldn't be relied on. Mine still operates fine at the moment and the only reason I know that, is because it reads as it should, lol. Of course mine could be giving me a high reading, but my engine seems to run smooth and sweet, so I think I'm ok for now. I will be investing in both oil pressure and temperature after market guages shortly, as although oil pump failure is rare on these I'm told, an oil pipe splitting, is not :D

dont really want to chop a hole for a new oil pressure gauge tbh so i guess ill have to hope its ok lol, any ideas on tye dipstick thing?

chop a hole? Dipstick is a bit crap on the Z. Make sure it's cold and been stood for hours, you'll get a better reading from it.

yea chop a hole in the dash or somewere to mount the gauge

Just buy an a pillar with a guage pod or two in it like the rest of us, lol. Places like Zed Center sell them and they come up on here all the time.

not a bad idea esspecialy as ive got a spare gauge upstairs

See, I'm not JUST a fat, balding ugly git :D

See, I'm not JUST a fat, balding ugly git :D

 

Dont be hard on yourself you not a git lol

Hi mate,

 

to get an accurate reading from the dipstick, you must do as people have said above - make sure the engine has been running until warm; but then left to stand for at least half an hour!

 

It really does take ages for all the oil to return to the sump....

 

As for the pressure readings - I'm not so sure the guage is crap, but a more common problem is the stock sender unit itself failing. The symptom of this is a normal reading when cold; but as soon as the engine warms up, it drops to very low or nothing..... The stock sender unit is expensive - around £90-ish.

 

But if working well, the guage reading when hot should be not too far short of the first marker line on the stock guage at idle. And when driving with the engine at 3000rpm, it should sit just short of half way - near the second line mark.

 

I'm sure there is a link to the correct readings in the FAQ section somewhere ..............

 

Richard:chef:

nice one cheers mate, on that note anyone got a good spare sender lol?

nice one cheers mate, on that note anyone got a good spare sender lol?

 

LOL - don't bother with a second hand one mate as that won't last 5 minutes either!!

 

Richard:clown::surrender:

I may have been lucky with my stock sender,

had the same problem initially, so I decided to run some engine flush for a short time, (Wynns engine flush) after a 100 miles or so, drained the oil and changed for new,

has been great ever since.

good point ill get on to mjp in the morning hes making a killing off me lately!!!! lol

I may have been lucky with my stock sender,

had the same problem initially, so I decided to run some engine flush for a short time, (Wynns engine flush) after a 100 miles or so, drained the oil and changed for new,

has been great ever since.

 

i was planning on doing this at some point soon tbh did much crap come out after u used it?

Difficult to say really, mind you, the oil did look rather off colour when I drained it, a bit blackened to be honest.

irrespective of the sender though, it might be prudent to flush the system before fitting a new one.

ill give it a go cheers mate

I've said it before and I'll say it again, when doing an oil change:

 

1. Warm the car up

2. Add Wynns or STP engine flush

3. Run the car at 1500 - 2000 revs for 15 - 20 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE IT WITH FLUSH IN, it says not to on the can!!!!

4. turn off and wait for oil to return to sump (20 minutes should do it)

5. Drain oil, it'll be black if you've had engine flush through it, because it gathers up all the crap and dilutes it into the oil

6. Remove oil filter and drain that

7. Apply new oil filter with CLEAN oil around the seal

8. Fill up with oil, being careful not to over fill.

 

I've missed a couple of obvious steps, like cleaning up the surface the oil filter is going on to, but you know. Sounds like you were lucky with the flush, maybe your engine was just too fubar for it to be affected? But there is a warning on the can of engine flushes, not to drive while the flush is inside. You will still have some inside when you've drained it, unless you drain out your oil cooler and stuff as well, but the amount is minimal and not harmful, a full can inside it though, on load while driving, can really kill your engine. :D

How many litres does a TT engine hold if you don't have an oil cooler?

Why would you not have an oil cooler?

Dont be hard on yourself you not a git lol

 

OI! I resemble that remark :lol:

 

Hi mate,

 

to get an accurate reading from the dipstick, you must do as people have said above - make sure the engine has been running until warm; but then left to stand for at least half an hour!

 

It really does take ages for all the oil to return to the sump....

 

As for the pressure readings - I'm not so sure the guage is crap, but a more common problem is the stock sender unit itself failing. The symptom of this is a normal reading when cold; but as soon as the engine warms up, it drops to very low or nothing..... The stock sender unit is expensive - around £90-ish.

 

But if working well, the guage reading when hot should be not too far short of the first marker line on the stock guage at idle. And when driving with the engine at 3000rpm, it should sit just short of half way - near the second line mark.

 

I'm sure there is a link to the correct readings in the FAQ section somewhere ..............

 

Richard:chef:

 

Couldn't have said that better mate. I'd just buy an aftermarket guage and a sandwich plate for the oil filter, to my knowledge the stock one doesn't play any part in the ECU decisions does it?

Why would you not have an oil cooler?

 

Do they have oil coolers as standard then? Mine is an aftermarket one so presumed they didn't have one

Yeah the Z has a stock oil cooler, the UK one actually has quite a good one too, but lots of people uprate the JDM ones specifically, because they're a bit crappy and small. Mikey Bean for example just uprated his JDM one, by fitting a UK one, which is at least twice the size :D