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Ok, so I started stripping down the engine out of the WASP tonight, plenum is off and completely stripped, ready for Rose to start polishing it after it's been de-gunked, then it's going for an acid dip and a finish/re-polish by Rose when it comes back.

 

While starting to strip it down, I started to think about a few things and Mikey mentioned earlier tonight, before he moved out :no::cry:, that you can send your crank away to be lightened and balanced, rather than buying an aftermarket one, which is sold as lightened and balanced. Seems to me lightened and balanced is lightened and balanced, so anyone know where one might send it?

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prob a waste of monet tbh mate, unless your making a street monster, its not worth doing silly mods like this..... kinda like lightened flywheels and racey cams.... its your choice of course, but im just sayin...... is it really worth the ££ to you.. just to drive around on normal roads.

It's not a daily drive any more bud, the espace is the daily drive and buying a 7 series BMW for the motorway car, the Z will be for venting anger, sunday drives, meets, events, shows and most of all, the TRACK! :D:D:D

prob a waste of monet tbh mate, unless your making a street monster, its not worth doing silly mods like this..... kinda like lightened flywheels and racey cams.... its your choice of course, but im just sayin...... is it really worth the ££ to you.. just to drive around on normal roads.

 

Couldnt agree more,save yer money and get a quality lightened flywheel and underdrive pulley.Youll notice the earlier spool up from the tubs after fitting these.The 300 crank is quite well balanced anyway.Not many other v6 engines rev like it does straight out the box.

Couldnt agree more,save yer money and get a quality lightened flywheel and underdrive pulley.Youll notice the earlier spool up from the tubs after fitting these.The 300 crank is quite well balanced anyway.Not many other v6 engines rev like it does straight out the box.

 

That is definitely very true, it revs quite quickly for a V6. So even if I was planning a bit of a monster build, you wouldn't say it was worth it in your professional opinion Jimmer?

lightened flywheel, pulleys, crank pulley, and divorced elbows, some big turbos injectors and mapping.... TBH mate, when i done the above on mine it FRIGHTENED me. i rarely run it at 1 bar its that rapdio, and the turbos are good for 2bar!!!

you want power to vent anger and go on track, BIG TURBOS and a few supporting mods is all you need pal.

 

ive tamed it down for winter with stock ecu 370cc injectors and small diameter exhaust, otherwise ida shown you on Sat. hopefully someone else there has a suped up 300 that can give you a spin.

Ours is already pretty feckin quick tbh mate. But I want something really powerful, but not stupid. My TT scares me all the time, lol.

 

I don't want bigger turbos, I want turbos that spool up quickly and produce 1 - 1.2bar, the rest I'm doing the good old fashioned way. I used to build engines when I first started driving, but they were old V6 Colognes and Essex engines (Ford Capri), so a little different to the Z lol.

 

From what I've seen, most people that have big boost, tend to blow it up sooner or later, so for me, smallish turbos, that are built well, producing a little more than standard boost, but more efficiently and reliably and the engine needs to be bullet proof.

 

I'm currently thinking race cams, forged internals, ACL race bearings, eagle rods, wiesco pistons, etc. etc. combined with the usual lightened flywheel, crank and pulleys, then a nice agressive map to go with it. I'm probably only going for 370cc injectors myself, as I won't be going big on boost. I will be upgrading the intercoolers of course and the exhaust is already a 3" Mongoose, so just need the manifolds and downpipes to finish that bit off. Probably a lightweight 1 piece prop and things will be on my list too.

 

I thought about running stupid power, with stupid boost, but I decided if I do that, I'll blow it up or I'll kill myself, whichever comes first.

That is definitely very true, it revs quite quickly for a V6. So even if I was planning a bit of a monster build, you wouldn't say it was worth it in your professional opinion Jimmer?

 

Unless your planning major forged internals and other mods to cope with 9000 rpm which costs loads of money ie crazy cams,large tubs and i mean large then no bud id give it a miss.Youll be spending 10k to safely need those mods !!You can create a crazy zed that will scare the pants off you without major crank work etc.A 500hp zed is more than enough i can assure you and that will need respect and careful timing for throttle application Lol.

Unless your planning major forged internals and other mods to cope with 9000 rpm which costs loads of money ie crazy cams,large tubs and i mean large then no bud id give it a miss.Youll be spending 10k to safely need those mods !!You can create a crazy zed that will scare the pants off you without major crank work etc.A 500hp zed is more than enough i can assure you and that will need respect and careful timing for throttle application Lol.

 

Yeah, as above though really mate, I was looking at the lightened and balanced crank as a gain, not a strength mod to cope with boost as such. I suppose I'm approaching the tuning bit a bit different to most with turbos, lol.

Wish my zed wasnt sorn or id have took you for a spin at zedworld.mines running a stock crank and rods with lightened flywheel and crank pulley,decent tubs,manifolds and some portwork,shes rather lively and gives my 285 bridgestone rear tyres a very hard time !!

out of curiosity how much power is safe on stock pistons and rods ive heard of around 420-450 atf with supporting mods obviously

hollowpoint, get some 555 injectors, and a custom map to 16 -17 psi. that alone will make 430hp + and one hell of a difference.

 

or maybe in just making noise as marty puts it :-)

 

from what i can tell you just want a fast reliable car, im no pro but the above is what you really need. IMO.. mapping is the key though.

lol nice, tbh mine gives my 265s some serious shit, they're a really firm compound, so in the wet they're useless, and until they're warm, they're useless in the dry too :( A few spin ups though and they grip quite nicely, until I drop the hammer and then they start spinning again :D

 

I should probably point out at this point, that the grey Z is now a project car and will be getting the full treatment, bodykit, audio, interior, suspension, braking, engine. I'm thinking about the engine now, because I have a spare one to build while leaving the car running, courtesy of Roses old Z, it won't be going in the car until the suspension and brakes are sorted, but it's going to take me quite some time to build too, I haven't built an engine for nearly a decade now.

hollowpoint, get some 555 injectors, and a custom map to 16 -17 psi. that alone will make 430hp + and one hell of a difference.

 

or maybe in just making noise as marty puts it :-)

 

from what i can tell you just want a fast reliable car, im no pro but the above is what you really need. IMO.. mapping is the key though.

 

Yeah I'm agreed with most of that mate, but I don't want too much fuel, as I won't be running too much boost. Do I need 555s for 1.2bar? You're right about wanting a reliable fast car, but I want a reliable FAST car, if you get me? I just figured I'd go about it in more of an old fashioned tuning way, rather than just upping the boost with bigger tubbies, it might go wrong I admit, but I'm keen to give it a go :D

get a 2004 wrx wr1. 0-60 in 4.2 1/4 mile in lows 12s standard. then you wont have to worry about MOST cars.. :-)

Don't tempt me, we had a WRX in NZ and we both loved it, we did consider getting one when we came back here to live, but decided on the Z. The Z is much more fun and challenging to drive, the Scooby is just like playing a PS3 game, except it handles even better. lol

out of curiosity how much power is safe on stock pistons and rods ive heard of around 420-450 atf with supporting mods obviously

 

It depends on mapping matey and prior engine condition,but that kind of power needs some increased boost which puts extra load on the piston ring lands.Its a toughie really as it may last or may not its hard to say.There really is no set in stone figures.

mate took me out in his today, couldnt beleive how fast it was UNTWEAKED!!!!!! he was like 0-60 in 4 secs. BOOOOOOOM. loved the thing. its only 320hp i think but ive never seen a 300zx run low 12s with under 500hp..

 

get one, ill get one too then we can wipe the floor with eveyone elses Z's

mate took me out in his today, couldnt beleive how fast it was UNTWEAKED!!!!!! he was like 0-60 in 4 secs. BOOOOOOOM. loved the thing. its only 320hp i think but ive never seen a 300zx run low 12s with under 500hp..

 

get one, ill get one too then we can wipe the floor with eveyone elses Z's

 

Right up until the big end goes boom just like every other scoobie !! how they thought that power could be sent through a crank journal the equivalant of a motorbikes i will never know.Have you seen a scoobie crank ? its crazy its so small.Ugly car with some great attributes but made by a company that started off selling its cars to the farming market only.

maybe, but all cars break, credit is due to the wr1 tho, its epic how brillant it performs with such little power.

if you want awd its all about evo power, everyone i know who owns a scooby only bought one because they couldnt afford and evo!!! ive never heard of an evo driver moaning about reliablity or wanting to trade for a scooby

It depends on mapping matey and prior engine condition,but that kind of power needs some increased boost which puts extra load on the piston ring lands.Its a toughie really as it may last or may not its hard to say.There really is no set in stone figures.

 

well mines a recon engine about 8000 miles ago just wondering what the limits of the stock parts are i know it all depends on tune, driver, quality of parts fitted ect... but what do most people get out of a stock engine? tbh id rather 400hp reliably than 450hp and its gonna throw a rod or kill a turbo after 2000 miles

well mines a recon engine about 8000 miles ago just wondering what the limits of the stock parts are i know it all depends on tune, driver, quality of parts fitted ect... but what do most people get out of a stock engine? tbh id rather 400hp reliably than 450hp and its gonna throw a rod or kill a turbo after 2000 miles

 

This is a question I've been asking myself for some time. Supposedly the engine in my Z was a 70,000 mile re-con'd engine when I bought the car, so in theory it could handle 400 nicely without a full rebuild, but I just don't trust it.

 

I figure if I spend a lot of money getting it to 400 and then I have to strip it all down and rebuild it, leaving the car off the road for god knows how long and having to spend more than I budgeted for, I'll be kicking myself, so I'm going down the route of building something WAY above spec in the bottom end, to ensure that my top end mods taking me to 400 - 500bhp, will have MUCH less chance of killing the bottom end.

 

I'd guestimate that mine is around 350bhp as it is, and that is a pure guestimate judging the performance against the one we just broke, which had standard ECU and was very un-modified. That said, I don't have bigger turbos, or intercoolers and the main mods on mine are induction, downpipe back exhaust, and a Mines ECU, it feels considerably faster than the other one, which was almost completely stock, but who knows, it might only be 300bhp and the Mines map just makes it feel more aggressive.

 

I haven't been able to really test mine for some time now, as since we rebuilt the top end with replacement lower and upper plenums, I've had an issue with an injector plug on cylinder 5 popping off all the time. They were all masticked down before the plenum change. I have some replacement connectors though and I'm going to try and fix that issue tonight.

yea sounds likea rebuild is the right way for you if you want reliable 500hp!! although tbh a 350rwd car is still a pretty quick motor!!

 

tbh i want to avoid the rebuild ive got a 550hp civic and thats my toy the zeds like my gt car really id like to keep the auto box but its gonna be a pain to map it as it just wants to kick down all the time im just after a bit more kick and just and its holding back a bit at around 4k

I tend to drive my cars pretty hard, and the Z I don't, I feather it because I don't trust the motor. My capri is the best example, I blew it up doing 145 on the M62 when I was 18, rebuilt the motor on that and then used to rag it everywhere, never had an issue that was performance related after I rebuilt it. Make the engine way over-spec'd, then don't use it to capacity, but rag the shit out of it, that's my moto :D

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