quick couple of questions for you guys,

 

im not too good with the ins and outs of auto's, but when its in park my idle is quite high about 1200, but when in drive but stationary its about 8-900ish. is that normal?

 

and my other question is can the clutch go on an auto might be a stupid question but how would you tell? on a manual you'd feel it but my zeds been acting a bit strange recently so just wondering.

Well the idle speed itself is too high, but what you have described it doing is normal between neutral/park and drive.

 

What is it doing?

My idle is about 1200 in park but what should it be?

Bit high then :lol:

 

How do you get it lower?

You need to adjust your base idle, but you might want to check your TPS setting first, before you adjust the idle speed. Info on how to do both in the faq section.

im not too good with the ins and outs of auto's, but when its in park my idle is quite high about 1200, but when in drive but stationary its about 8-900ish. is that normal?

 

If its running cold, and on choke then this is normal, if its doing it warm your base idle may be out, tps may not be right, but 1st id clean the trottle body, if its sooted up and not cosing at idle it will hunt a little.

and my other question is can the clutch go on an auto might be a stupid question but how would you tell? on a manual you'd feel it but my zeds been acting a bit strange recently so just wondering.

 

Answer is no as it has no clutch, if the torque converter goes then youll know as it will lose drive and its new box time, most of the time you cant really tell when an autobox is on its way out, some get noisey before giving up, others just let go without warning, generally low autobox fluid will make awful squeaky noises, low line pressure makes sloppy changes, high line pressure makes neck jerking gear changes. You can sometimes fix sloppy gearchanges with fresh oil but often once the autobox is on its way out there is very little you can do to save it. Decent 2nd hand autoboxes arent mega expensive and relativly available as people crash or convert to manual.

thanks for the answers

 

well i've tried adjusting the tps and resting base idle, its at the lowest possible, any higher and its 2K in park.

 

the whole cars being strange and has been since i had all the air leak problems, all the air leaks are fixed now, (and i meen all)

 

here are the symptoms

 

1) on cold start up ( and ocationally on warm) it revs itself on turning the key then drops to the point it nearly stalls ( has actually stalled on occasion) very embarrassing as im trying to pull away from a petrol station.

 

2) it acts strange under low throttle, best described as hesitating but not how you'd expect, doesn't cough or splutter its almost like the clutch slipping the revs chase slightly then its off and theirs no problems. only last a second at most but it didn't used to do it.

 

3) its spooky it almost feels like its driving itself on occasion like the throttle stuck even though it isn't. (had that actually happen the other day)

 

the boost gauge (aftermarket) reads a nice -22psi at idle, and during its funny spells doesn't flux.

 

i know their is a slight blow in the elbow to down pipe of the exhaust could that be doing it? making it run rich? its only slight just audible.

 

other then that the car runs perfect in fact i've had a couple of people actually come and say how perfect it sounds (good feeling shame it looks like a shed)

 

im confused its not really a problem as much as its annoying.

 

im starting to regret naming it the devil Z, (anyone whos seen any old Japanese racing films will pick up on that)

Edited September 23, 201114 yr by (adl) phoenix

Have you checked the the timing? it may have been set wrong and all the other things changed to make the car run... now that you've moved them to what they should be the CAS might have the wrong setting for it to work.... if you know what I mean...

Edited September 24, 201114 yr by Medallion Man

Mine does the rev chasing i think its to make the down changes less jerky does it still kick down ok? I had my base idle jump up after i installed a new tps try unplugging the large plug from the tps with the ignition on for about 30 secs that should reset the base idle?

I had a similar thing a couple of weeks ago...when I stopped at traffic lights and selected neutral, the revs increased to around 1200. I did all the checks you mention and found it was a poor connection in the grey connector from the TPS. A clean up with a bit of WD40 did the job and now idling back at 850. Hope this helps...

it drives perfect apart from that gear changes are all good,

 

as for the timing it had its cambelt changed by zedworld a few months ago, and ran fine after, i really doubt Jeff could have got the timing wrong, particularly as it went back for a remap and mot a month after and found nothing wrong. (thanks to everyone at zedworld BTW)

 

ill check the connectors again as the wiring on my car is shoddy to say the least, if not ill try adjusting the idle screw like i said its not so much a problem its just a little annoying.

when its in park my idle is quite high about 1200, but when in drive but stationary its about 8-900ish. is that normal?

No the idle should be around the 850rpm when in park/neutral, when you move it onto drive the revs are automatically raised slightly to take into effect of the gearbox drag, this is felt as that slight creep you get with autoboxes when you release the brake.

 

So back to your high tickover, this can be caused by:

 

1) An adjustment error a the base idle screw on the AAV

2) An air leak, a vacuum or bost pipe

3) A bad connection on the tps hard idle switch.

4) A sticky AAV or at least the section that deals with the cold start.

 

 

At this point I would consider the base idle setting not to be a problem due to the recent cambelt change and set up.

 

First what you need to do is some basic visual check, check around to see if any small pipes have popped off, take special attention to the small pipes under the main throttle intakes, this often come off as they have no clips.

 

So with the engine warm and the high idle present, wiggle the tps connector see if the revs drop away...if so you have found the problem, if not move on to the AAV look towards the back of the balancer bar in the middle, an S shaped hose come out of it and attached to the cold run, once you have identified it then use a socket set extention bar or something similar and tap the unit, if it is jamming the revs will drop away and this will need cleaning with some carb or brake cleaner.

 

and my other question is can the clutch go on an auto might be a stupid question but how would you tell?

 

Autoboxes have multiple clutch units, these work in hand with the brake bands to preselect the next gear and then release the individual gear clutch at the right moment, clutch wear in an autobox can be felt as slip when the gear is about to select as in a manual that eventually will become an individual gear loss, usually top gear clutches fail first and work their way down as the debris goes through the box.

 

 

Hope that helps

 

Jeff TT

thanks Jeff will give it a go,

 

doesn't sound like their is anything wrong with my box then, thanks for the info, suddenly occurred to me i have no idea how an auto box works... :stupid: as soon as i can afford it want it changed to manual anyway.

seems to be a bit better now.

 

what i found...

 

well i changed the tps for a spare one,

 

found one of the black pipes had a tiny crack in it (the 90 degree one to the side of the passenger throttle body, connecting to the intercooler feed)

 

all this helped a little but strangely i was checking connections like you said Jeff removed the yellow ivv (?) connector at the back of the plenum in doing so the idle dropped straight to 850?? connected it back up it spiked to 1400ish then fell to 900 and has stayed there

 

its still a little high, but now i work for Nissan ill try to get some new bit (tps, ivv, and the black OEM pipes all replaced)

Mines similar when in Park or Neutral when the heater control is set on normal, if I turn mine to "ECO" or off the revs drop to normal.

 

Thought it was normal operation, engine trying to compensate for the Aircon compressor.

Cant the temp sensor clip being loose cause it to do this too?

 

If i were toy id check that too, its dead easy to whack a little cable tie around the plug to make sure its not wobbling about, also give the connector a clean befor you do this.