Im not happy with it, help :(

 

Everything on the car is brand new and on some bends i get a twitchy bum as if it wants to come round.

 

I dont know if my set up is to good and the back is to grippy, you turn in the you feel the bum turn in like 4wd (got no hicas)

 

The car has been on hunter system so it is set up properly. can cambers do this, i have 2.3 degree on the rear and 1.5degree on the fronts.

 

I was wondering about slighly streched tyres. i have 265's on a 10"wide rim. the rear pressures are 34 psi and i was thinking of putting them down to 28/30 where i have always had them. so i can get more tyre on the road

 

Problem i have is i cannot change the rear camber anymore or fit wider tyres because i am flush with the wings and is it just a case of get use to the new set up?

 

One last thing the tyres that came with them are cheap and are bi directional. didnt realise they still made these. last time i had these were on an uno lol!!!!

Edited August 28, 201114 yr by Car.Mad

Tyres will be the problem. No point in having a fully adjustable setup that's configured for ultimate grip, then having bi-directionals on. They'll lose grip so much quicker, because there's no flex in the system at that point, especially with the camber setting. If they're stretched of course then you've also lost the tyre wall flex and will make it go even quicker. Get some better tyres, Eagle F1s are my fave, then try again, I bet it feels great.

Max factory setting for rear camber is -1'35' max. Nissan spent a lot of time getting this right.

 

You are a bit over that bud. Combine that with a low profile tyre on a wide rim and you may not be putting that much rubber on the road when you compress the suspension and the camber angle increases. Plus the slight stretch and dodgy tyres probably explains it.

 

First port of call has to be the tyres. Upgrade to a reputable brand with good reviews in 265 size.

So you reckon tyres then. I still have my old alloys running falken452s so when i have chance i can swap them over and see if it makes a differance.

 

So are Bi directional worse than directional?? i might as well kill these, i can let some pressure out and maybe get some flex in them??

Bi-Directional are basic tyres, they don't give optimal holding because they're designed to work in either direction just as poorly :D I have them on the front of mine, with some directionals on the rear, but it seems I got ripped off on those and they're a really not-grippy compound, so I get tones of wheel spin. It does hold itself well in the corners though oddly.

looks like i will need to have a little play tomorrow. Ive tried setting uo the shocks to stiff and soft etc but that made no real differance.

 

The handleing isnt bad at all but you just know something isnt quite right.

You just don't trust it right? The odd little twitch that you're sure shouldn't have happened, etc.?

It could be the rear camber - too much can make it a little twitchy.

 

I run around 2deg dead due to the same reasons as you - I think you have mania wheels too & in truth the offset is pretty much to the max LOL!

 

I am not running that low so wasnt too bad for me (Eibachs over KYB's)

 

I was considering these at one stage to adjust the track: http://www.driftworks.com/shop/car-parts/suspension/adjustable-arms/driftworks-adjustable-arms/driftworks-front-rear-adjustable-lower-arms-s13-s14.html

 

just a thought :)

could be paul. so what would these do pull the bottom off the alloy in to reduce camber?

 

My camber before the hunter set up was 3.1 lol!!!! but ive not noticed any differance i dont think.

could be paul. so what would these do pull the bottom off the alloy in to reduce camber?

 

My camber before the hunter set up was 3.1 lol!!!! but ive not noticed any differance i dont think.

 

basically, yes. The arms are used to set the track (width) of the rear wheels to the desired level & then the camber can be adjusted after. This means you should be able to pull the rear wheels in to sit correctly in the arches & run less negative camber

have you mixed up your front and rear camber readings?

basically, yes. The arms are used to set the track (width) of the rear wheels to the desired level & then the camber can be adjusted after. This means you should be able to pull the rear wheels in to sit correctly in the arches & run less negative camber

 

could be a plan :)

 

have you mixed up your front and rear camber readings?

 

 

No mate more camber is on the rear.

No mate more camber is on the rear.

 

I would start with getting all your suspension aligned back to OEM specs and go from there.

I would start with getting all your suspension aligned back to OEM specs and go from there.

 

Yeah it all been set up on the hunter machine accept for the rear camber. Its at the best we can do because the alloy if flush with the outer edge of the arch

 

 

Ive just let out 4psi on the rear and it has given me a little flex in the tyre wall now and the tyre is almost flush with the floor. Need to go out for a spin now but i really cannot be bothered lol!!

Well set up can never be 'too good'. I usually have 31 psi in the rears for fast road and of course much less for track. Tyres are a major factor if you want to go round bends fast and the best all round tyre that I've had is the Pilot Sport 2 which are almost as good as T888s in the dry and phenomenol in the wet. Regarding your suspension set up suggest you get it adjusted for performance rather than 'looks' :)

Well set up can never be 'too good'. I usually have 31 psi in the rears for fast road and of course much less for track. Tyres are a major factor if you want to go round bends fast and the best all round tyre that I've had is the Pilot Sport 2 which are almost as good as T888s in the dry and phenomenol in the wet. Regarding your suspension set up suggest you get it adjusted for performance rather than 'looks' :)

 

Cheers For the imput Bob. It is set up for fast road only 3 days ago. but we are stuck with the camber. which maybe causeing the problem or more likely the crap tyres that are on it.

 

Just reduced the pressure to 28psi might go out for a spin now while its dry out

Just got back from the spin and it feels much much better. so im pritty sure now it is down to the tyres. It has to be. its still there a little but i can live with it till i kill these tyres off. and go for the falken 452's again and maybe a size up.

 

still can swap the wheels over but i really cannot be bothered today lol!!

Right just had a look and the tyres on them are Auto Grip and they are utter shite.

 

THey have really really bad reviews and one guy said he could only take a bend at half of the speed as he could in his knackared Nankangs :lol::lol:

 

you can buy a autogrip of 20" tyres for £70 :shock:

 

So avoid at all costs