OK so lets update.

 

Car went to garage had reconditioned gearbox fitted.

 

I've had the throttle bodies cleaned

 

Ive had the connector to the idle control valve changed over to spade connectors as mine was very green indeed..

 

It still tries to stall sometime not as much as it did originally. - Before I could not even drive the car down the road so there is massive improvement. I can at least take her out.

 

Took here on a 20 mile trip. Stalled once when breaking gently behind cars at lights.

 

Then going about 45 - 50 mph just cut out. Bit blooming dodgy in the wet. Pulled over - put her in P and started again.

 

Now I do get the POWER light come on. it comes on and stays on for a good 10 seconds or so. Then goes out. It seems to come on at high revs.

 

So any one have any clues. I am not blaming the garage they have done lots of work on other cars for me and are great. Lets face it the car is 20 odd years old.

 

Pulled up at home put her in park and was idleing too high 1700

 

Any suggestions please

 

Dave

Firstly the Power light comes on with sudden full/part throttle,stay on as you say unless you release the throttle again-this is normal.

Second did the garage have Consult or similar?-sounds like the Tps might need setting up or the aacv........also check for boost/vac leaks around where the garage boys have been.

Ok bud, dont worry about the power light, it will only come on when gassed hard or foot down. Dont start the car with your foot on the accelerator and dont rev it just before you turn off.

 

Idle is too high: how did they clean the throttle bodies? a) if they only cleaned with a rag, then the likelyhood that any oil residue in the plenum will have worked its way into the idle control valve over time and it would need taking apart to clean.

b) if they used a carb cleaner then it might have cleaned the throttle body, but any crap forced into the plenum again would end up clogging a breather pipe or IACV.

 

I think it points to the idle control valve.

sounds like the power light is working fine as in it is putting you in to power mode with the increase in throttle (suddenly)

Right I will order a idle control valve.

 

Do you know if its available New?

 

Thanks for the replies. Ill check the rest in the morning.

 

Many thanks

What is IACV as Groover has said this needs checking as clogged possibly.

Right I will order a idle control valve.

 

Do you know if its available New?

 

Thanks for the replies. Ill check the rest in the morning.

 

Many thanks

 

clean it!http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.46

im not too clued up on zeds yet but by wha your describing forany other car id say idle control, thefact its intermitant sounds like a dodgy connction or something

sorry my mates keyboard is guff

clean it!http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.46

 

Thanks for the link.

 

I might attempt to clean it. To be honest I don't know much about engines but I know where the valve is located. Its a bit awkward.

 

Ive printed the info out so may just give to garage. Ill see if I feel brave.

 

Thanks for the replies and help - appreciated

Ive ordered a used idle control valve from zworld - should be here Tuesday

Slight Update Im trying to remove the idle control valve - got the screws/bolts out x 4. removed one pipe now trying to remove the other pipe, blooming awkward, and theres a bracket from a pipe that one of the screws go through, would be easy if that was not there

you need to undo the other bolts holding the control unit on the Left side of the idle unit

this will alow u to removed the unit u need

Update,

 

Ive got it off. On the instruction I cannot see how you get at the inside of the solenoid to clean it to check on the spring etc - The one in the picture is all in pieces.

 

Also the gasket for the air regulator is damaged now. Also the spring does not appear strong enough to close the plastic cover to cover the hole. Its remains partly open.

 

Well, can really do much now as gasket knackered. Hopefully the part will turn up on Tuesday.

Its unlikely a used unit will come with the gasket unless you asked for it. You can either get a new one from MJP or use a bit of liquid gasket sealant when you replace the new one.

 

There are 2 screws take it apart

Went to Halfords and purchased some instant gasket. Didnt think it could hurt. Got some break cleaner and I also purchased a cheap rota craft cost £14.00 which I used to clean all the connections as they were green. Did a really good job of those. put all back on and No difference! So will try again on Tuesday if the part turns up.

Hate to say it but there are rarely quick short-cuts to diagnosing this sort of thing with Zeds - there are so many sensors and potential causes. To do it properly, work through the manual trouble diagnosis http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=42&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=190

 

You should see if there are any fault codes in the ECU. You cna do this via Consult, ConZult or the manual method is here http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html with, in case you need, autobox code diagnosis here http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/autodiag/autodiag.html

 

More tech how-tos are here http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tech.aspx

 

Lastly, you said

Then going about 45 - 50 mph just cut out. Bit blooming dodgy in the wet.

Have you got an induction kit? If so, might be damp getting at the MAF.

Gio Thanks. Ill have a look at the manual.

 

No I do not have an induction kit. Just standard filter.

I found this video on youtube. This is exactly what is happening. As it is a sunny day at the moment I will check my connectors on the MAF.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FD4B4-pVZUY&feature=related