Hi Guys,

 

Typical just my luck. I got the car delivered. When they delivered the car, Fuel light on. - Great. I put some petrol in it £20 quids worth to get me to a garage. On route I picked up the wife.

 

Now it drove OKfor a while say 2 miles. I turned it off. and it stalls. Also I get at the start on the dash, POWER LIGHT flickers but goes out.

 

So guys, any advice. I have contacted the dealer. He has said there was nothing wrong with it and he will get it sorted but he thinks its dirt as run low on petrol. He suggested fuel cleaner...?

 

 

Over to the experts - engine sounds and pulls great when it goes. - The revs at present just drop causing it to stall. Ticks over OK...

hi mate, does the power light flash a specific number of times when you turn it on? as this can indicate a fault code ie 11 flashes means one thing and 12 means another etc.

 

Also you say it ticks over fine ( i assume in neutral) , so when are they dropping so low that it cuts out?

 

At least the dealer says he'll sort it if it is anything sinister.

Edited May 12, 201114 yr by Pablito

Power light flickers? if you have an auto and you have a fault code, the power light flashes then goes out. Count the flashes or do an autobox diagnostic:http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128846

 

There could be a number of things which affect the running, so many sensors lol, You could do an ECU diagnostic:http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128845

 

Other things to check on these cars with running issues, maf sensor plug under the nose panel, temp sensor, top of the water pipe, left one for corrosion.

The idle air valve may need adjusting if the base idle is low, or cleaning if its stalling.

 

Dealers will usually always say there was nothing wrong with it before it left the garage.

I would take it back and get them to check it over and explain the symptoms and possible fixes as explained here or check in the faq section http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=43

 

Also check your battery terminals are not corroded and are tight. With the age of these cars the positive battery clamp gets worn over time and work loose.

 

Good luck.

 

Graham

OK, Many thanks for the quick replies.

 

I am off to work now. Ill have a deep read when I am back.

 

cheers

 

Dave

Just quickly, it flashes either 15 - 16.

 

Ive counted twice and ill need more time to get it right

There arent that many flashes lol

Error Codes Key:

 

All 10 flashes the same = No error codes detected.

1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected.

2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected.

3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected.

4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid "A" circuit is shorted or disconnected

5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid "B" circuit is shorted or disconnected

6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected

7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected

8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged.

9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit is shorted or disconnected

10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected

All the same with no long start flash = Battery low, been disconnected, or control unit has just been reconnected.

Thanks for the list of codes.

 

I turn the ignition to on, (So lights come on) the Power light comes on for a few seconds then flashes. same amount of time - not like morse code. 15 flashes.Anywhere I can post a mobile phone video and you can watch.

oh I will quickly add they drove it 80 miles to me. And theres no way they could drive it here. Not the way its behaving.

 

Car starts. Ticks over. go to drive and stalls (most of the time) If i place in Drive car moves without any pushing on gas pedal (to be expected as auto) stalls

Update I have ordered a fuel filter. Replacing that tomorrow.

Not sure if that will help or even cure it.

 

After that Ill try the injectors.

Most of the time it flashes its likely to be revolution sensor or line pressure.

 

The problem with stalling could be the base idle set too low or the TPS( throttle position sensor) needs adjusting Or both.

The TPS if not set correctly, will affect gear change intervals too.

Most of the time it flashes its likely to be revolution sensor or line pressure.

 

The problem with stalling could be the base idle set too low or the TPS( throttle position sensor) needs adjusting Or both.

The TPS if not set correctly, will affect gear change intervals too.

 

Groover what's the voltage supposed to be on the tps, a ptu can also cause stalling or just not starting, as mine did that when I plugged it in and left the little metal retaining clip off :oops:

Edited May 13, 201114 yr by vodkashots
Using iPhone and it's being a pain in the ass

Update I have ordered a fuel filter. Replacing that tomorrow.

Not sure if that will help or even cure it.

 

After that Ill try the injectors.

 

Make sure you purge the system before taking any pipes off the fuel filter as its under pressure. The easiest way to do this, is take out the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay near the brake servo, then start the car until it stalls. Turn over again to make sure most of the fuel in the system has gone, then change the filter.

Replace the fuse after completing the change and turn the ign on, but dont turn the engine, you will hear the fuel pump, turn off the key then go for another start.

 

It wont hurt replacing the fuel filter but i dont think its the cause of your stalling.

TPS 0.44v. The PTU if failing, can cause starting issues and rough running sometimes coupled with a PTU plug loose, but i think the stalling in this case is something else.

 

It could be base idle, IAV, vacuum leak.....

Do you mean its stalling when you come to a stop (revs drop so low at idle that it dies) ?

 

or does it literally cut out when your driving/Accelerating ?

(Is it as soon as you touch the accelerator pedal, or is it when you go over a certain rpm, 3k ?)

 

or is it completely intermittent and it will drive fine, and then every so often just cut out/stall no matter what the revs or situation?

Edited May 13, 201114 yr by Yowser

Do you mean its stalling when you come to a stop (revs drop so low at idle that it dies) ?

 

or does it literally cut out when your driving/Accelerating ?

(Is it as soon as you touch the accelerator pedal, or is it when you go over a certain rpm, 3k ?)

 

or is it completely intermittent and it will drive fine, and then every so often just cut out/stall no matter what the revs or situation?

 

If I start the car, its fine, I can rev the hell out of it no problem. Runs fine.

 

When it goes into gear, D as auto, its a little up and down on the revs, That's even with do added acceleration on the pedal just letting the car go forward on its own it dies slowly then cuts outs. My revs on idle are about 800-900 and ticks over lovely.

 

I am waiting for the Fuel filter to turn up should be here by 1pm. I agree I don't think its the fuel filter either but worth a try.

 

I don't think I am clever enough to mess around with the idle valves so ill let the garage have it soon. - I am just waiting for the warranty to turn up. Hopefully that will be here today.

I cant find an edit button for my posts so I'm replying again.

 

I can drive the car sometimes - some distances - not far. It keeps cutting out. If I floor it, not that i'm that type of driver no problem. Goes like a ROCKET.

 

I might check injectors.

No change after changing fuel filter.

 

Ticks over nicely, revs great. Put into gear and it will idle for a little then as you release the brake to go, revs drop.

 

Ill try and get it to a garage first thing Monday - Its Booked in.