As above quick diagnosis to confirm what i think. On pressing the buttom for the drivers side window i can hear a relay in the door but the window aint moving but the passenger side works fine. Is it a possible window amp or motor?

 

Marty

Amp resolder all the joints!

You can check the motor by connecting it directly to 12v.

I have an amp going cheap if you want one :)

Damn,we've got to be able to solve this between us. so no up and down...Does it still go right to left?

 

:)

sorry-couldn't stop myself.

Window amp black box from 200sx s13 works on z 32 just fitted one.

I'm havin the same problem, mines a bad connection somewhere cos if I give the door panel a wack it works.

I think the problem is some are not bolted to the inside of the door and rattle around and causeing loose solder joints, the s13 one is rapped in rubber .

Passenger side started playing up today as well is there window amps on both sides or is there something else that could link the 2 faults?

only amp is on drivers side mate

Copied and pasted from a previous thread>>>>

 

 

Drivers side window issues? the window power amp controller has a habit of failing leading to an intermittent or non working window, lucky it is a very easy fix and free to boot if you can use a soldering iron.

 

The unit in question is fitted in the drivers door, it is held in place with a single 10m bolt and has one 8 way connector plugged in to it, roughly just off central towards the rear of the door.

 

Once removed the outer case needs easing off the lower connector area, the internal part then slides out in one piece.

 

Photo 1 shows the internal parts of the unit and the pcb its all mounted on removed from the outer case, the two relays to the left are the output up and down for the window motor and the steel busbars to the right are the connection interface to the door wiring loom and the source of the problems.

Photo 2 shows the unit end up where the connector goes in and again the source of most issues the unit suffers from.

 

 

 

Photo 3 shows the rear of the pcb and the area in red is where the connector busbars are soldered to, not easy to see the problem yet.

 

 

Photo 4 shows the problem in clearer detail, the pin solder has failed and this is the cause of the intermittent or no connection and the failed window operation.

 

 

Photo 5 shows the method of repair, by applying a soldering iron to the effect area the solder will reflow and make a new connection.

 

 

Photo 6 shows the final result, a nice solid connection that will get that window operating again, just put the unit back together and refit to the door.

 

 

Happy fixing

 

Jeff TT

Ah super cheers Jeff easy fix then ill get that done tomorrow :)

Absolutly superb, followed Jeffs post and it all went as described, good luck with yours mate and a big thanks to Jeff:bow: