Hi,

 

I know you get what you pay for but just wondered if any one has used or know anybody who as used one?

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320650732029

 

cheers Mark

I've not heard the best things to be honest mate, do a quick search as i'm sure there was a thread about this not long ago..... like you say in some things in life you do get what you pay for.

If you want a decent clutch mate, jeff sells them. end off lol

Engine power must not exceed 420 bhp & 390 ft/lbs

 

Thats not a whole lot of power for a puck clutch & if your only running that power would stick with a decent disc clutch TBH

probs will be getting the one off Jeff to be honest, but just thought I would ask lol.

 

cheers Mark

probs will be getting the one off Jeff to be honest, but just thought I would ask lol.

 

cheers Mark

 

ill be getting the one off jeff as mine has just started to slip on boost, its better equiped to handle the power of a tuned 300 and also feels like a OEM at the same time. good combo if you ask me.

dont want to change turbos ect, just a good chip and decat ect. not sure what power that will get me, but as along as jeffs clutch can handle that, will be the way to go I think, dont want to put a clutch in for it to let go 6 months later lol.

 

The guy how dont the manual conversion most of put a crap clutch in as the car power will be standard is only has back boxes and a filter, but dont think its chipped yet anyway lol

 

Cheers mark

dont want to change turbos ect, just a good chip and decat ect. not sure what power that will get me, but as along as jeffs clutch can handle that, will be the way to go I think, dont want to put a clutch in for it to let go 6 months later lol.

 

The guy how dont the manual conversion most of put a crap clutch in as the car power will be standard is only has back boxes and a filter, but dont think its chipped yet anyway lol

 

Cheers mark

 

or using a old clutch plate. they do eventually give out lol

 

Mines pushing 16psi (digital boost gauge is showing), hks airfilter, straight through decat exhaust. boost jets, Greddy ecu. and i think it must be a standard clutch, i should be around the 360 bhp mark with the mods i have, and the clutch is only just starting to slip.

mine was fine all the way back from scotland, then for some reason got stuck in reverse turned car off then selected gears fine but the clutch is slipping now, when you accelerate the revs just go up and you go no where lol, but came on pretty sudden like you said, normal starts on boost. never mind new one anyway lol.

 

is 360 max for standard tubs?

 

Cheers Mark

mine was fine all the way back from scotland, then for some reason got stuck in reverse turned car off then selected gears fine but the clutch is slipping now, when you accelerate the revs just go up and you go no where lol, but came on pretty sudden like you said, normal starts on boost. never mind new one anyway lol.

 

is 360 max for standard tubs?

 

Cheers Mark

 

shouldnt be, some people on standard tubs have pushed to around 420. which i believe is max, but then to be honest a tub refurb should be on the cards if your upping the boost as they are 20 years old by now and once you start giving things more stress something is bound to break

 

Though id see if you need the clutch renewed, or if its something else if you where stuck in reverse. could be the thrust bearing failed.

funny you say that mate, the trust bearing is noise, but selects all gears spot on just slips when pushing the loud pedal, maybe I should strip it down first and see whats what.

 

420 is really good on standard tubs, but agree a refurb will be in order lol.

 

Cheers Mark

funny you say that mate, the trust bearing is noise, but selects all gears spot on just slips when pushing the loud pedal, maybe I should strip it down first and see whats what.

 

420 is really good on standard tubs, but agree a refurb will be in order lol.

 

Cheers Mark

 

420 would be absolute limit id imagine, unless you want turbo spindle all over the place lol

what ever I get from a decat and a decent chip, I will be happy with, changing turbos and bigger intercoolers will start to be too exspensive lol.

 

Will you change the clutch yourself?

 

Cheers Mark

what ever I get from a decat and a decent chip, I will be happy with, changing turbos and bigger intercoolers will start to be too exspensive lol.

 

Will you change the clutch yourself?

 

Cheers Mark

 

will indeed, not that bad a job, its room more than anything. i do all my own zed work, helps keep costs down. plus i just love working on my car.

Will be doing mine myself as well, any tips lol, changed my on the impreza so same principal, but hard work on axcel stands lol.

 

cheers Mark

Will be doing mine myself as well, any tips lol, changed my on the impreza so same principal, but hard work on axcel stands lol.

 

cheers Mark

 

like this

 

jack front of the car or better yet get it on ramps, as you get much more clearance, jack and Axel stand the rear.

 

Remove exhaust.

Remove heat shield

get a jack and jack at the pivot point on the gear box to support the weight of the gear box.

Undo the 6 bolts holding the center bearing of propshaft. and it should slide out of the rear of the gear box with out the need to undo the propshaft in the center.

 

Undo the gearstick coupling.

 

NOW this is important. plug the whole at the rear of the gearbox with something like a hairspray lid and gaffertape in place. or your going to empty the gearbox oil all over the place, (unless your going to renew the box oil like i will, in which case just empty the gearbox before you start)

 

Undo the rear gear box support bolts. now lower the gearbox using the jack, but be careful as the engine will still be all wired up and last thing you want to be doing is damaging the water pipes that feed the heater matrix at the rear of the engine.

 

this should lower the gear box at the rear enough to get the top 4 bolts with a 14mm socket on extension bars.

 

Undo the 4 top bolts of the gear box. then the 4 lower bolts. at this point the only thing keeping the gear box connected to the car should be the cabling that goes to the gear box so now would be a good time to undo them.

 

Now with a trolley jack supporting the gear box at the pivot point, pull back slowly to free the gear box, Watch out for the plates that will fall out between the engine and gear box.

 

Lower and move backwards again, until its clear of the clutch housing. now up to you at this point, but if you can get it low enough on the jack while keeping it on there, move it as far back as possible so its out of the way. and jack it against the underside of the car so it cant fall over. but not too much so you damage your car.

 

now undo the clutch housing and remove the clutch, may as well change the thrust bearing and fork while there and check the flywheel's teeth.

 

Fitting is just a reversal. but make sure you have a clutch alignment tool or something that will do the job just as good. to get the new clutch on you will know if its not straight as the gear box will refuse to mate with the engine.

 

Word of caution though, the gear box weights in at around 75kgs. so if it falls off the jack, or you remove it from the jack, you will need help to get it on and stable while you put it back on the car. and for god sake if it falls let it, dont bother trying to catch it while laying on your back, or your not going to be able to open a bottle of beer after.

Edited March 20, 201114 yr by vodkashots

Thanks alot mate, good advice once again.

 

cheers mark