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There has been a few questions about wheel spacers so took a few pics of mine.I have 25mm front spacers with 18" wheels 245x40 tyres. Under extream conditions ie very bumpy country roads they do scuff the inner plastic guards a little but on normal roads they are great.The stance looks great I think so here's the pics plus a few others just for the hell of it.

 

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awesome gary, just the info i was looking for. Love the stance it was just the look i was after, btw are there any pros and cons to putting spacers?. also where do i get some good ones and are they hard to put on?

It shure does and I now nothing about it:sad:time for the technical guys to take over:)

 

glad you said that, as i know nothing about it either lol

 

where are the tech guys when we need um?

regarding offset, for example if you had a wheel with an offset of +25 and fitted the 25mm spacers, it would make the overall offset 0.

Somebody will turn up lol or you could always do a search:yes:

 

Search? dont swear at me, groover will tell you, i have a phobia about that function :lol:

Yep, Im afraid saying "this is what a Z looks like with 25mm spacers" is meaningless.

 

25mm spacers will have a completely different effect depending on the wheel width and offset fitted to them.

 

If I fitted them to my own Z for example, they would potrude right out the arches by 25mm and the car would not be driveable, becuase I have wheels with an ideal width and offset already.

 

Wether a spacer should/could be used, and what size all depends on how the wheels current offset and width matches up to the cars ideal measurement for flushness, and wether there are clearance issues to deal with.

 

The offset is the distance from the centreline of the wheel to the hub surface of the wheel.

 


    Zero offset would mean the hub surface is in the centre of the wheel.


    Negative offset would mean the hub surface is more towards the rear of the wheel.


    Positive offset would mean the hub surface is more towards the front of the wheel.

 

All wheels come in a variety of different widths and offsets, with typical offset ranges are from -50 to +50, and is a measurement in millimetres. This makes calculating offsets a little more confusing, as wheel widths are typically measured in Inches.

 

Now, becuase the vehicles hub is in a fixed horizontal plane, altering the offset of a wheel will alter where the wheel sits within the wheelwell.

 

More negative = more inwards , more positive = More outwards.

 

The same thing occurs with the wheels width, a wider wheel with the same offset as a Narrower wheel is ofcourse going to have both its outer and inner edges extend further.

 

Which is why Width and offset are so dependent on each other, and what the ideal width and offset is for a nice flush fitment is dependent on the cars own dimensions from Hub surface to arch lip, and also between the suspension components for inner clearance.

 

What spacers do is effectively increase the offset of a set of wheels (make them more positive), which ofcourse pushes the outer edge of a wheel outwards.

Ive just ordered my spacers today 25mm on the front and 15mm on the rear as recommended by funkysi when he did some figures with my offsets :)

Great info Yowser:thumbup1: will need to keep this thread now:clap:

 

Yup - very well explained indeed! I now understand the whole off-set thing; cheers Yowser!!

 

And Gary, your Zeds are looking awesome mate....:rockon:

 

Richard:thumbup1:

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

Sounds good dont forget the pics when fitted:thumbup1:

 

Of course :thumbup: i cant wait to get things fitted once ive ordered them going for the big job of Koyo rad tomorrow and other bits

9.5 width et20-22 is a very nice fitment all round. There's no 'best' unfortunately, the benefits of running 'flush wheels' are far overshadowed by running good wide tyres (it's rare flush wheels are fitted with suitably wide tyres as the arches would need work once the car was lowered. run 255 on the back, then run 275 on the back on the same width wheel and there's a world of difference in grip, same with 235/255 up front.

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Nice work Gary!

 

That's all it takes to make any car look good IMHO.

 

Are you considering lowering it slightly?

 

Andy

 

Thanks Andy but lowering it might help the stance but wont help my stance:biggrin: at 50 its low enough for me and my back:yes:

gary at that height do you get any fouling / rubbing of the tyre and rear arch ?

 

im like you and at 51 need a bit of comfort with damper rates ..havnt set them yet for the ride height as i need to be carefull i dont rip the wide arch conversion of or smash the F/G if the wheel rebounds into them ......

there is no best offset overall, it depends on the width of the wheel and tyre too, i like an agressive stance so i would say a 9.5j et25 with a 245 would be nice on the rear but you'd need to roll the inner lip and an 8.5j et10 with a 225 on the front. im currently running a 9.5j et35 with a 25mm spacer on the rear with a 265 tyre but i have flared rear arches and a 8.5j et35 with a 25mm spacer on the front with a 235 tyre, no real archwork needed but it does rub on the arch liners on lock.

  • Author
gary at that height do you get any fouling / rubbing of the tyre and rear arch ?

 

im like you and at 51 need a bit of comfort with damper rates ..havnt set them yet for the ride height as i need to be carefull i dont rip the wide arch conversion of or smash the F/G if the wheel rebounds into them ......

 

Under normal driving conditions there is no fouling but on very bumpy country roads and it has to be very bumpy it does sometimes skuff the inner plastic front arches. Not shure if the ride height has been lowered at the front but I do know it sits lower at the front compared to my SWB which has newly fitted standered Nissan shocks, this has probably left you more confused than before:lol:Here is a pic of the two zeds nose to nose.

 

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Hi Gary,

 

Looking much better there.

 

What you may find is that the tyre is rubbing in on the head of one of the fixing screws for the liner (the two uppermost ones). If the scew heads are shiny then those are you culprits.

 

There are two ways you can create a little more space here.

 

1. grind off about 1mm from the head of the screw leaving enough depth for a crew driver (worth copper greasing the thread at this stage to ease removal at a later date).

 

2. Bend back the locating lug under the arch that the screw goes into paying careful attention to cracking the paint. Have some clear lacquer and a small paint brush at the ready! (You shouldn't need it really unless you go mental with the mole grips!!)

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