Hi all, found out today that its not my wheel bearing that's gone, but the ball joint on the Hicas bar, so was going to change it for the one on my breaker, but run into a snag. how the hell do you get the bar off from the ball joint end. its looks like a square nut, and then two very thin nuts. but i don't know what size they are. looks to be in the region of 30 to 32mm spanner i need.

 

Also i take it once i start undoing them, I'm going to leak hicas fluid everywhere and will then need to bleed the system once changed.

 

Anyone got a walk through or something, ive checked the web, and im about to check the online service manual.

 

 

Need to remove the bit with in the red box, the other end is floating free from where i undid it. i have no idea what spanner size i need for the job. anyone shed some light? i have nothing big enough to fit it at the moment.

Edited March 1, 201114 yr by vodkashots

27 views and no one knows how to get it undone? :crying:

Your thinking too deep, to remove anyone of the hicas arms you need to undo and pull back both gaiters, you need two spanners so that will be you and Micky..................... JUST JOKING!!!! one spanner on the inner socket as it is called above, they are on normal threads but are opposing so hold one to undo the other one. No fluid will come out, but you need to release the arm your changing from the outer hub bush by removing the split pin, undo the 17mm nut and then you need a ball joint splitter ( screw type not chisel type) .

 

Refit the same as removal, one tip is when undoing the arms with the two spanners (lol...sorry ) brace the one you do not want to undo and put the force on the one you do want to remove or the wrong one will come undone.

 

Hope that helps

 

Jeff TT

 

 

Ball joint splitter

 

Edited March 1, 201114 yr by JeffTT

I've undone the inner arm from the outer link, just need to get the ball joint end off the hicas.

 

So going on what you said, it's the Inner socket and the Stoke stopper that need undoing, well one holding and undoing the other? What do I need the ball joint splitter for?

Edited March 1, 201114 yr by vodkashots

I'm confused lOl (yes yes wasnt that hard I know)

No do not undo the stroker nut, the splitter was to release the arm at the other end from the outer hub bush but you say you have done that right? so no worries your nearly there.

 

Jeff

No do not undo the stroker nut, the splitter was to release the arm at the other end from the outer hub bush but you say you have done that right? so no worries your nearly there.

 

Jeff

 

 

Ive removed the green part from the blue part, with the nut (looks like a tracking arm on the front of the car) as if changing the boot.

 

Ok i suppose i should really be asking which end is more likely to be giving me the problem, the blue or green end? the blue ends bush looks in good condition. so im not sure if its that what needs changing or the ball joint end.

 

Does that make sense?

 

Sorry, for got to say, the outer link is still attached to the car at the hub.

Edited March 1, 201114 yr by vodkashots

i changed mine a while back . on mine the inner socket was worn and that was where all the play was . its bloody difficult getting spanners onto the nut marked inner socket in the green section but you have to lock up one side to undo the other . wedge a spanner on inner socket one side and undo the inner socket the other side . there is very little room to turn the spanners so it takes quite a while . as jeff said you wont lose any fluid but knuckle skin loss is a definate . make sure you mark the threads with a bit of tipex or tape so you know where to tighten them back up too

i changed mine a while back . on mine the inner socket was worn and that was where all the play was . its bloody difficult getting spanners onto the nut marked inner socket in the green section but you have to lock up one side to undo the other . wedge a spanner on inner socket one side and undo the inner socket the other side . there is very little room to turn the spanners so it takes quite a while . as jeff said you wont lose any fluid but knuckle skin loss is a definate . make sure you mark the threads with a bit of tipex or tape so you know where to tighten them back up too

 

Right, so i lock the stroke stopper, and undo the inner socket, what size spanners do i need, as i have nothing big enough at the moment so will need to go get some, last thing i need to be doing at the moment is spending out on tools that are the wrong size in the hopes i get the right one.

 

Cant believe MOT guy thought it was a bearing issue. but then im so glad its not :D

Done this job not to long ago. I made up a thin spanner out of 4mm steel to lock up the shaft on the power cylinder and then loosened of the inner sockets with a regular spanner. I can find out the sizes you need if you want matey.

no mate not the stroke stopper the other inner socket on the other side of the power cylinder . like undoing a bike wheel . the stroke stopper will stay put due to the lock nut . just check the gap between the stroke stopper and the lock nut with a feeler guage incase it moves . should be about 2mm iirc . i cant remember now if its a 30 or 32 mm

Done this job not to long ago. I made up a thin spanner out of 4mm steel to lock up the shaft on the power cylinder and then loosened of the inner sockets with a regular spanner. I can find out the sizes you need if you want matey.

 

please, need to get this done before the retest on tuesday next week

ok mate i'll let you know tomorrow

do a search ian on the ozzy site . theres a good write up with pics showing the same job on a z31 or it might be the earlier 32

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGallery/main.php?g2_itemId=76907

 

Aha........found via this post on the aus site. might have to stick this one in storage, not sure on why you need to undo the pressure lines though? maybe jeff could shed some light on that. *edit* doh!, hicas elimination, that's why he disconnected the pressure lines.

 

Scary situation for that feller, amazing how much movement there is when that rod isn't connected. also something to watch out for if you have stiffened suspension and bumpy roads.

Here's the spanners i made up to undo the inner sockets from the shaft of the power cylinder.

 

 

I made these from 6mm aluminium but if you make them from thinner steel if you want. They are approx 12" long by 65mm wide with a 30mm x 30mm cut out in one end. The idea was that my 30mm spanner was to thick to fit in between the socket and the stops on the power cylinder so instead of grinding down my expensive 30mm snap-on spanner :no: I made two of these job done:thumbup:

Here's the spanners i made up to undo the inner sockets from the shaft of the power cylinder.

 

 

I made these from 6mm aluminium but if you make them from thinner steel if you want. They are approx 12" long by 65mm wide with a 30mm x 30mm cut out in one end. The idea was that my 30mm spanner was to thick to fit in between the socket and the stops on the power cylinder so instead of grinding down my expensive 30mm snap-on spanner :no: I made two of these job done:thumbup:

 

that's awesome, always love seeing things others have made, to get the job done.

 

Should be out changing the arm sometime today, just hope my tracking isnt too out once done.