well now my Z is sorn for the winter got caribzx Z so i can change the heater matrix and though might as well remove the dash (so it can be repaired come away around the vents)to better gain access to the heater matrix, so if any tips advise or links to how to's please sticky up thanks.:sweatdrop:

 

dan.:biggrin:

No tips. Its fairly easy tbh but it just takes time :)

 

Take pics maybe??

I`ve done a few now, not as hard as you would think to remove the dash, but a few more things to remove to get to the matrix, but chop the matrix aluminium pipes and replace with rubber when reconnecting seems to do the trick bud, hth

 

Daz.

 

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.311

The only difference between doing it on a manual or auto, is some guides tell you its easier to remove the clutch pedal for more room.

 

A few of us have done this recently with the dash in, do a search and you will find.

As Daz said, i found cutting the matrix pipes, easier and quicker. I used 15.8mm (inside diam) hose, cut 2" and 2 jubilee clips per pipe. Use good jubilee clips, not the halfords cheapies.

i have just finished putting the dash back in from doing mine, the easiest way i found in mine was to strip out the dash inc the metal support bar, remove the clutch pedal, then the small black box on the right hand side of the main air box, remove the spring and a bunch of hidden screws. i took all the nuts off from the main box with the heater matrix in to give it a bit of play, i then cut the small bit of plastic at the rear of the box where the small screw is which attaches the pipes to the box (this is the screw you have to unscrew through the bulkhead if you are removing the matrix with the dash in), then i unscrewed the copper pipes from the matrix (if you havnt drained the engine water you may want to take the rad cap off to help with any pressure as mine decided to spray water into the cabin when i did this lol) - the box should then pull out enough to be able to slide the matrix out and replace it this way - i felt more comfortable doing it this way than cutting the pipes as i didnt have anything suitable to cut the pipe with, there is also alot less copper pipe showing than i was hoping for. - hope this makes sense, is the way i found easiest for me.

 

leigh

thanks for all the replies:thumbup: i have removed the dash now!:eek: so many bits!:confused1: have a break from it now then going to go for a bit more tomorrow, its a auto so no clutch pedal and did a heater matrix bypass earlier in the year so no coolant left in it, let you know how get on with removing the heater box.

 

dan.:whistling:

For reference: if cutting the copper pipes at the matrix, i used a bosch multi which cuts using vibration/sonic waves. Cut through like butter, nice and clean and just enough room using the half moon cutting blade.

finally got the old heater matrix out! what a pig of a job! was told by someone they could do a matrix swop in an hour!:lol: so many bits!!!!:wacko:thanks for all the tips and help thats why this forum is worth every penny of the subs.:thumbup1:

 

dan.:blink:

got the new matrix in and gonna fix the blown heater vent dash and see how it goes back together!!!:oops:

 

dan.:biggrin:

you are best using an epoxy resin for the dash lift fix . something like araldite is just the job . it wont soften and come unstuck again when it gets hot

dont let john see that phot lol

 

nows a good time to get the dash covered in leather ;)

you are best using an epoxy resin for the dash lift fix . something like araldite is just the job . it wont soften and come unstuck again when it gets hot

 

thanks will get some of that :thumbup1:

 

dont let john see that phot lol

 

nows a good time to get the dash covered in leather ;)

 

he seen it weekend for real and the engine bay!!:shock::lol:

 

dan.:biggrin:

made a start on the dash today as you can see its peeled away a bit so can only get better, found that me spirit level worked a treat at keeping even pressure along the joint and as norm say's you can never have enough clamps!lol its a bit cold outside though the stuff wasnt curing so got in indoors overnight too help. what you think?

 

dan.:biggrin:

Edited December 11, 201015 yr by dannzx

almost ready to fit the dash back in once some delivery's get through the snow.

 

dan.:santa:

Wow good work getting all that done mate and getting your dash vents stuck down, I have this problem to with the plastic around the vents lifting in my blck zed and have tried to stick it down but with only limited sucsess, to do it right it looks like take the dash out or remove the windscreen, hears how I tried to do it.

Wow good work getting all that done mate and getting your dash vents stuck down, I have this problem to with the plastic around the vents lifting in my blck zed and have tried to stick it down but with only limited sucsess, to do it right it looks like take the dash out or remove the windscreen, hears how I tried to do it.

 

wow that looks fun to set-up!:hammer: it was expensive to get someone to remove the windscreen and then replace it monies better spent on the Z i think, had to replace the heater matrix so thought it would be easier to do both jobs at the same time and think its the best way to go.

 

dan.:biggrin:

wow that looks fun to set-up!:hammer: it was expensive to get someone to remove the windscreen and then replace it monies better spent on the Z i think, had to replace the heater matrix so thought it would be easier to do both jobs at the same time and think its the best way to go.

 

dan.:biggrin:

 

you would never guess I was a joiner:lol:

you would never guess I was a joiner:lol:

 

:lol::lol:

 

I didnt realise you were doing the dash Gary, could have given you a little tip i found most useful. I bought an epoxy two part glue, that mixes itself when you press the plunger and because it looks like a syringe, i stuck some windscreen washer pipe or similar, about 6 inches, so you bend the pipe to the angle to get it under the lifted parts of the dash as you press the plunger, simples :turned:

 

You could have used tennis balls wedged under the window to a straight edge to hold it down while it sets overnight, however you could have still used your scaffold technique :tt2:

:lol::lol:

 

I didnt realise you were doing the dash Gary, could have given you a little tip i found most useful. I bought an epoxy two part glue, that mixes itself when you press the plunger and because it looks like a syringe, i stuck some windscreen washer pipe or similar, about 6 inches, so you bend the pipe to the angle to get it under the lifted parts of the dash as you press the plunger, simples :turned:

 

You could have used tennis balls wedged under the window to a straight edge to hold it down while it sets overnight, however you could have still used your scaffold technique :tt2:

Good advice bud and do you remember the name of the glue you used?

Its down the garage, will have a look later tonight and get back to you, got it from halfords, so easy to get hold of.

Its down the garage, will have a look later tonight and get back to you, got it from halfords, so easy to get hold of.

 

Thanks Graham.

got the dash back in just the vents to fit and also got john's new powdercoated stuff fitted, gonna try the heater later.

 

dan.:biggrin:

Thanks Graham.

 

Sorry Gary totally forgot to tell you what the glue was i used, its Araldite fusion, looks like a syringe and mixes itself as you push down the plunger, i stuck a couple of inches of tube on the end to get the angle under the dash trim.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30189/Sealants-Adhesives/Adhesives/High-Strength-Adhesives/Araldite-Fusion-3g#