Anyone found a tech on how to change the rad fluid - ie for how much fluid and what ratio with water to use? I wanna change mine this weekend.

 

Thanks.

Evening Bilky,

 

Just seen that no one has responded to you so I thought I'd give you my 2p worth.

 

When draining the rad it is easiest to just disconnect the bottom hose - much quicker than through the propper drain valve at the other end of the rad (look out though coz as soon as you disconnect the hose it'll piss coolant!)

 

Reattach the lower rad hose after all the fluid has drained and start filling the rad (through the rad cap hole) making sure you undo the bleed screw thingy at the very left (top) of the rad. If you buy one can of coolant (with antifreeze) - about 5 liters - you should have more than enough. You don't have to dilute it with water. When the rad is full, close the bleed screw and the rad cap, start the car, let it run for a while and then check the level again (you should have to top up a couple of times) but make sure the pressure is off the system before undoing the rad cap. I recently drained and refilled my system and needed to top up for about 3 days. Now it's perfect.

 

I hope this helps mate.

 

Cheers

 

Danny

When you change your rad fluid you end up changing all the coolant in the engine. You may want to consider back flushing the system. There is a tech on this I think on TT Net, but basically you disconnect one of the heater hoses at the bulkhead & connect a hose and flush the system thru with cold water and let it run out the top of the rad. This helps clear the system of the accumulated rust and crap. You may want to consider using a flush product from halfords etc as well.

 

WARNING: Flushing can dislodge lots of crap and send it thru the heater matrix and create blockages and can create leaks elsewhere as hardened deposits loosen up from around hoses etc. if you're car hasn't had its coolant changed in a while proceed with caution!!

Also dont drive it till you are sure you have no airlocks - you risk cooking and totalling the engine if you get one.

Heard of somebody who went straight out on the motorway and toasted the engine.

 

I guess you can feel the top big hose gettin hot if you are fine. If it stays cold there's no circulation. Would still let it tickover 15-20 minutes at least then let it cool and recheck the levels.

The danger is in filling too fast and trapping air somewhere in the system especially if its under the thermostat then the thermostat doesnt get enough heat to open up the flow till its too late.

Bilky,

 

I was just looking through the owners handbook/manual and it actually gives teps on how to do it:

 

1. With ignition on, set the temp controller on to max. wait for 10 secs and turn off ignition.

 

2. open radiator cap.

 

3.pull open lid located on engine undercover and open the drain valve. Open the drain plug on the engine block.

 

4. open the air release plug to drain coolant.

 

5. flush the cooling system by running fresh water through the radiator.

 

6. close the drain valve and drain plug securely.

 

7. fill the radiator slowly with the proper mixture of coolant. Fill the reservoir tank up to the "h" level. Install the radiator cap and close the air release plug.

 

8. start the engine and warm up until normal operating temp. Then race the engine 2 or 3 times under no-load. Watch the coolant temp gauge for signs of overheating.

 

9. stop the engine. After it completely cools down,refill the radiator up to the filler opening. Fill the reservoir tank up to the "h" level.

 

10. chech the drain valve and drain plug for any sign of leakage.

 

Hope that helps. The only thing I noticed that no one said to do, was to set the air con to max. I presume that's to open up the heater matrix and let the water flow out of there (but what do I know).

 

Vijay

Thanks fo the replies. My bloody drain plug bust! But I did a temp fix with superglue and it held for me to get to Andy Duffs for his spare one!