Ive just built my twinturbo still a tiny bit tappy up top using 10w40

should i use a thicker oil , also how much mileage should i put up before i can drive it on :d:d:d

You should drive it. You may find that it stops after an hour or two's driving. It can be air in the hydraulic cam followers. It eventually bleeds out. Mine does this if not used for several months. The grade of oil is correct.

Failing that stick a good 15/50 semi in and see if you find it improves. I had the same prob eventually ill just replace the lifters i think.:bow:

cheers lads the place is so handy , ye know your stuff

wynns lifter treatment has worked a treat for many cars on here.Were the lifters cleaned when you did the rebuild?

Edited November 20, 200916 yr by 8ace

yeah they got a wash in a machine shop like a massive washing machine

don't know if this works or is balls but....

 

 

Am shamelessly lifting this from a post on another site:

 

In the past, I have cured tappety engines by starting from cold and allowing the engine to idle until hot, ensuring NOT to rev the engine at all.

The cause of the rattle had been down to customers using large amounts of engine flush, then re-filling with oil and revving the engine almost immediately. They would always say how quite the engine was before they changed the oil..

The hydraulic lifters then deflate and revving the engine prevents re-inflation, so the cycle continues.

Using engine flush will be fine, and will certainly help clean out any crud that may have formed in the lifters. I would add the flush and run the engine for a while and leave overnight, then warm up the engine fully before the oil change. Try to leave the oil to drain for as long as possible, preferably for an hour or so.. and SAAB oil filter too..

 

 

Hope this helps

start it up leave it running until warm then slowly increase the revs to 2k for about 5 secs and it should clear. If no good repeat a couple of times.

after setting up the timing im still getting a bottom end noise , engine has to come back out not too happy , more money

have you replaced the bearing shells, and have you got 'running in' oil in it?

have you replaced the bearing shells, and have you got 'running in' oil in it?

 

Top call matey, shells are a must for an engine change/rebuild. Top call again, running in a rebuild must be with standard oil (mineral) then, semi synthetic, then fully synthetic. 500-1000 miles between. As instructed by the best.................

 

"JIMMER"

 

^^^^the best 300zx engine man^^^^

 

 

 

Al.

With the instructions I was given for my stage 6 I was told this

 

For the first 3000 Miles you will need to use regular oil (like penzoil 10/30 or 15/50) ...NO Synthetic!.

 

The car should be run for 1 hour or 50 miles and then the oil should be changed. After this change it can be run for up to 3000 miles until the next change.

i replaced all bearings and ran a castrol 10w 40 in her but i had to get the crank ground so unless i did something wrong i wont know till i strip it again