I bought a 300zx 2+2 N/A this week from ebay, on the listing it said that there was a tapping noise, and sure enough there is, they last owner said this was due to it having a oil change and it started about a week after, someone had pointed out to him that the wrong oil had been used and that it needed its engine flushing and new oil and filter fitting.

 

Annoyingly i cant tell what type of oil is in it, but I'm going to be doing a Oil and filter change anyway, the last owner said it might be a sticking valve. or tappets.

 

My question is this.

 

What is the likely hood its a sticking valve?

 

Also I'm in need of a new interior, the one that's in it, has a hole in the dash board inline with the center console where someone tried putting a speaker, needs a new steering wheel as the one that's in it is manky, but I'm going to be sorting them bits out anyway, but i want to put in some of them re-trims,

 

Other question is.

 

Are retrims any good? and are they an easy fit?

 

And where do i post a question about insurance lol?

I bought a 300zx 2+2 N/A this week from ebay, on the listing it said that there was a tapping noise, and sure enough there is, they last owner said this was due to it having a oil change and it started about a week after, someone had pointed out to him that the wrong oil had been used and that it needed its engine flushing and new oil and filter fitting.

 

Annoyingly i cant tell what type of oil is in it, but I'm going to be doing a Oil and filter change anyway, the last owner said it might be a sticking valve. or tappets.

 

My question is this.

 

What is the likely hood its a sticking valve?

 

Also I'm in need of a new interior, the one that's in it, has a hole in the dash board inline with the center console where someone tried putting a speaker, needs a new steering wheel as the one that's in it is manky, but I'm going to be sorting them bits out anyway, but i want to put in some of them re-trims,

 

Other question is.

 

Are retrims any good? and are they an easy fit?

 

And where do i post a question about insurance lol?

Always try the cheaper option first of course but I have spoken to a couple of NA owners recently with tappy engines that required engine work, both were the hydraulic tappets at fault I think.

 

Dash and wheel would be available from here or ebay, retrims seem ok, never fitted them myself but seen a few that look good.

Also the engines can sound a tappy if left standing for a while, only a good drive of a few miles gets rid of the noise if its cos of that.

might be but not sure, paid peanuts for the car, so might be a underlying problem that he didn't tell me about,

 

Apparently he took it off the road soon after as he didnt want to damage it just in case it was something bad, and its been sitting off the road for around a year from what i can tell.

 

Ooh forgot to add, its sputters when you try and give it some welly, if you drive it like a Sunday driver its fine and will get you where you need to go, but try and give it some to open her up and its like shes struggling to get fuel or something down her is best i can describe it

How loud is the tapping?, mine had a slight tapping noise upon purchase due to being parked up for a while, but was soon rectified with decent oil and i also put some wynns hydraulic valve lifter treatment in, followed by a oil change again 3000 mls later not saying you have the same issue though

 

but i'd try an oil change with a good quality oil first and see how it goes after a decent run etc

 

Oh and as regards insurance, there are a fair few threads on the matter with company details and no's to boot :)

 

if you cant find what you want there then feel free to ask

 

 

 

Chris

Edited September 22, 200916 yr by ck300z

Ive had a really good read of this forum, even used the search lol, also checked out that big list of insurance companies too.

 

So far cheapest insurance of been quoted for is £1037 from a company called coverbox who also put a tracker on your car for you. most expensive is Asda car insurance clocking in at £4750 lol,

 

Cars sitting on a friends farm at the moment till i get this tapping / stuttering sorted out so i can take it for a MOT, so i have private land to run around on, biggest problem i have with insurance is i only have 2 years NCD, and had my licence for just 3 years, and im 31.

 

Not many people have given me the time of day so far due to not having my licence 5 years or longer. ill go with cover box if i have to, they know its a import and that it has mods on the car (ss exhaust, twin induction, lowered) so that's looking promising right now, unless i can find anywhere cheaper.

 

Thank you for the replies and help so far.

Stuttering could be caused by a faulty MAF.

Ive had a really good read of this forum, even used the search lol, also checked out that big list of insurance companies too.

 

So far cheapest insurance of been quoted for is £1037 from a company called coverbox who also put a tracker on your car for you.

Apologies for offtopicness, but..

I had never heard of them so went and tried to get a quote (online) to be told that they will not quote me because..

 

Vehicle not rated for this company.

Unacceptable. Must be fitted with an approved security device.

Unacceptable due to car group

Unacceptable Occupation.

 

never mind then eh.

sausagefingaz, no need to apologise, check out my other thread called @ChrisC here

CLicky

 

You also might find this thread helpful Insurance companies

tapping noise alomst certainly hydraulic lfters, will do no harm driving it, in fact should get better. try putting some valve lft lube from halfords sometimes works! if you reall want to get rid of it you will have to replce them. there are 24 of them at about £25/each plus fitting.

Might be of some use if you wanna go the lifter replacement route...

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=130447

 

HTH

Sean.

or how about this ..

 

Description: Stock VG30 variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) intake camshaft sprockets are non-serviceable units that are notorious for leaking oil and making noise. Oil leakage occurs because the rear cover can rotate independent from the sprocket, this wears its o-ring seal and eventually leads to an oil leak. The noise is typical with high-mileage sprockets and/or aftermarket higher-pressure valve springs that cause the cams to over-rotate on every cylinder's intake valve-closing event. This over-rotation causes the VTC piston to screw itself onto the VTC helix overpowering the piston return spring. As the cam continues to rotate, the valves close and the valve spring pressure diminishes to the point where the return spring slams the piston back to its stop creating the audible tick that is indicative of a noisy VTC.

 

By design, the VTC primary function is to advance the intake cams 20° (crankshaft) from off idle to roughly 5800 RPM to increase torque in this RPM range. At idle and high RPM the VTC is in its static “zero advance” position which reduces valve overlap for smooth idle characteristics and increases torque at higher RPMs - and it is only in the zero advance position that the VTCs can make noise.

 

True VTC noise can be verified by activating the VTC solenoids using a ConZult or by grounding their green with black stripe wires while the engine is idling. This will cause oil pressure to build within the sprocket, forcing the VTC piston to screw onto the VTC helix thus advancing the cam and removing the window of opportunity to make noise. Typical VTC noise will stop entirely when doing this and the engine will begin to idle rough due to excessive valve overlap.

 

BDE rebuilt VTC sprockets feature a piston return spring specifically engineered for the load needed to prevent camshaft over-rotation with installed valve spring pressures up to 90 lbs and permit full VTC function. Oil leaks are eliminated by replacing the o-ring and positively locating the rear cover with a dowel pin thereby preventing it from rotating.

or how about this ..

 

Description: Stock VG30 variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) intake camshaft sprockets are non-serviceable units that are notorious for leaking oil and making noise. Oil leakage occurs because the rear cover can rotate independent from the sprocket, this wears its o-ring seal and eventually leads to an oil leak. The noise is typical with high-mileage sprockets and/or aftermarket higher-pressure valve springs that cause the cams to over-rotate on every cylinder's intake valve-closing event. This over-rotation causes the VTC piston to screw itself onto the VTC helix overpowering the piston return spring. As the cam continues to rotate, the valves close and the valve spring pressure diminishes to the point where the return spring slams the piston back to its stop creating the audible tick that is indicative of a noisy VTC.

 

By design, the VTC primary function is to advance the intake cams 20° (crankshaft) from off idle to roughly 5800 RPM to increase torque in this RPM range. At idle and high RPM the VTC is in its static “zero advance” position which reduces valve overlap for smooth idle characteristics and increases torque at higher RPMs - and it is only in the zero advance position that the VTCs can make noise.

 

True VTC noise can be verified by activating the VTC solenoids using a ConZult or by grounding their green with black stripe wires while the engine is idling. This will cause oil pressure to build within the sprocket, forcing the VTC piston to screw onto the VTC helix thus advancing the cam and removing the window of opportunity to make noise. Typical VTC noise will stop entirely when doing this and the engine will begin to idle rough due to excessive valve overlap.

 

BDE rebuilt VTC sprockets feature a piston return spring specifically engineered for the load needed to prevent camshaft over-rotation with installed valve spring pressures up to 90 lbs and permit full VTC function. Oil leaks are eliminated by replacing the o-ring and positively locating the rear cover with a dowel pin thereby preventing it from rotating.

 

 

Vtc pulley noise is a light rattle that can be teased away by lifting the engine revs, lifters make a more pronounced tap that get louder as revs rise.

 

Complete BDE Linky here http://bde-performance.com/vtc.htm

 

 

Jeff

or how about this ..

 

Description: Stock VG30 variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) intake camshaft sprockets are non-serviceable units that are notorious for leaking oil and making noise. Oil leakage occurs because the rear cover can rotate independent from the sprocket, this wears its o-ring seal and eventually leads to an oil leak. The noise is typical with high-mileage sprockets and/or aftermarket higher-pressure valve springs that cause the cams to over-rotate on every cylinder's intake valve-closing event. This over-rotation causes the VTC piston to screw itself onto the VTC helix overpowering the piston return spring. As the cam continues to rotate, the valves close and the valve spring pressure diminishes to the point where the return spring slams the piston back to its stop creating the audible tick that is indicative of a noisy VTC.

 

By design, the VTC primary function is to advance the intake cams 20° (crankshaft) from off idle to roughly 5800 RPM to increase torque in this RPM range. At idle and high RPM the VTC is in its static “zero advance” position which reduces valve overlap for smooth idle characteristics and increases torque at higher RPMs - and it is only in the zero advance position that the VTCs can make noise.

 

True VTC noise can be verified by activating the VTC solenoids using a ConZult or by grounding their green with black stripe wires while the engine is idling. This will cause oil pressure to build within the sprocket, forcing the VTC piston to screw onto the VTC helix thus advancing the cam and removing the window of opportunity to make noise. Typical VTC noise will stop entirely when doing this and the engine will begin to idle rough due to excessive valve overlap.

 

BDE rebuilt VTC sprockets feature a piston return spring specifically engineered for the load needed to prevent camshaft over-rotation with installed valve spring pressures up to 90 lbs and permit full VTC function. Oil leaks are eliminated by replacing the o-ring and positively locating the rear cover with a dowel pin thereby preventing it from rotating.

 

Whhaaa?:confused:

 

Vtc pulley noise is a light rattle that can be teased away by lifting the engine revs, lifters make a more pronounced tap that get louder as revs rise.

 

Complete BDE Linky here http://bde-performance.com/vtc.htm

 

 

Jeff

 

where are you based lol might be less confusing to me

Jeff works at zedworld in tamworth mate.

Vtc pulley noise is a light rattle that can be teased away by lifting the engine revs, lifters make a more pronounced tap that get louder as revs rise.

 

Complete BDE Linky here http://bde-performance.com/vtc.htm

 

 

Jeff

jeff would u reccomend to delete vtc and go for these ??

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1287&Car_Type=300&UID=2009092512595982.47.61.224