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Has anyone removed the air regulator, and if so how did you get to the bottom screw? I can not even get a finger to it so am I missing a trick here or is it really only possible with the plenum/engine removed?

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It's okay mate - I used a 1/4" drive with a long 10mm socket and you can feel around for the bolt head and undo it - Not much room, but it will come out gradually! A bit of grease or something in the socket itself (after you've loosened it!) will help the bolt stay in there and not drop into the unknown abyss which is the zed engine bay! I think I also removed the reg to plenum hose first to give a little more room for manoeuvre :)

Ps.Just remembered - unclip any connectors (there's the left side o2 sensor and another one next to it) which can be moved out of the way and this helps :)

  • Author
Ps.Just remembered - unclip any connectors (there's the left side o2 sensor and another one next to it) which can be moved out of the way and this helps :)

 

Thanks for that, I have removed all pipes and connectors I can, also got the IAA unit off first to give me some room, those connectors had never been off and the plastic disintegrated !! also seems my IAA unit is different to the spare one I have so will take this one apart to clean and check then refit.

you may have to do a lot by feel, once you`ve done it once it`s easy.You will need a deep socket though.Good luck

  • Author

The air regulator is the cold start mechanism, the IAA unit controls idle settings.

Thanks for that, I have removed all pipes and connectors I can, also got the IAA unit off first to give me some room, those connectors had never been off and the plastic disintegrated !! also seems my IAA unit is different to the spare one I have so will take this one apart to clean and check then refit.

 

My connectors pretty much did the same thing! I've got so many in 'not the best' shape to some degree or another that I ended up buying a new loom (still to fit). I also bought new coolant temp sensors and I was literally shocked at how much tighter the fitments are with a new loom! Definitely a worthwhile investment, methinks! With a bit of leaning and some groping (just like a visit to a lap-dancing club!) you really should be alright taking it off - I still had the IAA unit in place when I removed mine, and still found enough room to do it (nope - I haven't got girly hands!!). Both units are easy to take apart (I did find the gasket on the air reg to be brittle, so had to reseal it with a liquid one) and clean. As long as the springs haven't gone weak and the solenoids work, they should end up as good as new with a squirt of gunk! Good luck, mate

  • Author

I took my spare IAA unit apart and cleaned it all up, checked the resistance and operation of solenoids just to find that its different to the one I removed so I did this one as well, my gaskets also fell apart but I have some gasket paper here to make one up with a drop of hylomar for good measure.

my car idles when cold, but not when warm,

 

or it does, but very low, and cuts out if you rev it.

 

 

can i just clean the IAA then to try resolving this?

  • Author

I know many people have idle issues so here is the outcome of all the work, my issue was high idle and it seems the AAC valve on the IAA unit had become gummed up, all dismantled and cleaned out with carb spray and back to 770 rpm.

do you think mine is IIA related then?

 

idles low, and cuts out after you rev it out?

  • Author
do you think mine is IIA related then?

 

idles low, and cuts out after you rev it out?

 

There are many things that effect the idle on these cars, I would say the best way to deal with the problem is go through all the items on the links I posted earlier, one thing I will say concerning the engine cutting out after you rev it is ....

 

When setting the base idle you are suppose to remove the connector to the AAC, on my SWB when I did this if I revved the engine it would almost cut out then the idle speen would go back to normal, once I connected it up again then idle stayed constant when revving, perhaps your connector is loose or in need of cleaning !

I believe if the Air regulator is at fault it leads to a high idle, if the IAA unit is at fault it leads to a fluctuating idle. Here are a couple of links that go into greater detail.

 

http://www.es-ab.se/z-car/IdleTech.html

http://www.es-ab.se/z-car/IdleTech2.html

What a fantastic link/links ive just pasted those into my favorites folder should i ever need.hope i dont but good read.

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