Hi.. my auto tt has been running with lack of power for some time now. when i'm driving i feel like i'm having to press too far down the accelerator to get it to shift..or have to make it kick down all the time...

 

My cat warning light comes on and off and glows dim then bright which i realise is unburnt fuel gettin to them...

 

When i press on the accelerator to pull off or to rev.. the revs drop by about 300 rpm an it sounds like it's gonna stall...but never does!

 

I don't think it's ideling right... and gear changes feel a bit harsh..when it was runnin fine just the slightest flick of the key and it fired up..now i notice it's always a couple of turns before it fires.

 

My question is...after all that!...could all these symptoms be from my timming being out???... because when i think about it... it's never run right since my cambelt was changed.

 

Is it possible that the belt has been fitted slightly out or can that not happen.

 

I have a series II ptu and i've checked that all my plugs are sparking ok.

 

Sorry to go on..but really need to get to the bottom of this... i miss my pwr!

 

Any advice as maybe how to check or wot to do next please! :headvswal

i recon! ish

Anyone have an opinion on my symptoms??? Sorry it's such a long text but just tryin to paint the full picture..

 

Any thoughts would really help..... Cheers

was the belt changes by a specialist?

 

was the ignition timing checked after?

 

its not too hard a job to take of the timing belt covers to see if the cam timing is ok

coil pack issue may be. Clean all the connections and rubber connectors which keep them on.

Sounds like timing to me.

 

Check those timing marks or take it back to whoever done it and get them to check it for you. Which they should really do free of charge...

hi new member but mechanic for about ten or so years now will openly admit im no zed expert but not to bad at my job so im told. So i willl go out on limb and say to that it sounds like your air flow meter may be on it way out think it could just be that you only remember it running a liittle rough since your belt change as this was a certain spot in time that sticks in your mind and it the age old case of ''since you.....'' know that air flow meter aren't cheap new or second hand but if some one has one you borrow at your next meet to try simple to change it wont cost you a garage bill normally timing belts being out are quite tappie as your valves are bouncing off the pistons any one that thinks their compotent to change the belt should know somethings wrong so would supprised if you took it to some one trustworthy keep us up to date with it as i would like to know the problem even if no one else does

was the belt changes by a specialist?

 

was the ignition timing checked after?

 

its not too hard a job to take of the timing belt covers to see if the cam timing is ok

 

The belt was fitted by a mech relation of mine but i don't think he timed it up with a lamp???

 

I've got my hands on a lamp now...it's the type that clips on a HT lead.. how do i go about using it on the coil over set up?

Hi sean... cheers for your thoughts...air flow meter is new on me..which,what,where,when an how much?

 

would the air flow meter affect the way the car initially fires up? When i put the car away for the winter and re-start it in the spring it's always fired up at the flick of the key.. now even when the cars warm it cranks over more more than it used to before it fires up??

 

I'm gettin miffed with it now..summers nearly gone and i'm not enjoying driving the ole' girl.... we've been together for nearly 10 yrs now....sad i know!

 

I've picked up a strobe tonight so i'm gonna check timin tomora anyway.

 

I'll let ya know how i get on..oh!! and welcome by the way.

hi thanks air flow meter is also konwn as maf sensor (mass air flow meter/sensor) it the black box behind the air filter (wot the 200 boy want as upgrade) sure you know what mean now, if not take the headlight panel of and it there cant miss it. yeah it would effect everything in regards to running and starting as it measure the air being drawn in. think its deff worth borrowing one from someone first be4 buying as could be wrong not sure how much tho. i have spare my self at mo but not close to you and i know ''andy stokes'' (supercar parts on ebay and net) sells them have his number some where also if any use but sure that zworld would have them also let me know how you get on

sorry about last message in a mad rush ment to running my garage (zeds are more important tho)lol

I would say deffo maf too, similar symptons to mine and that was the problem, had idle problem for months and eventually it wouldnt run at all, running lovely with full power back now:)

Cheers fella's.. gonna do a quick timin check then it's down the maf road... watch this space!!

timing light will check ignition timing only which is ecu controled on zeds. it will not tell you if your mechanical timing is out (pretty sure if mechanical timing is out it would go into ''limp home mode'' best mate used to work at nis dealership and seems to agree, although admits they didn't get to many through the doors, more a 350 man.

Did the timing check tonight and it was a few degrees out so set it up at 15.

 

Seems to be better.. smoother gear changes and idle seems to have settled abit...but, cat light still coming on and power still not as should be...

 

Gonna try and get my hands on a MAF next and see if that sorts.

 

My cusin that did the cambelt change was trained at nissan too.. so you'd like to think he set it up right... but i was watchin him do it and to my untrained eye it looked like you could quite easily set the cams up half a cog out.. am i talkin' through me hoop?? don't know??

 

I'd love to know if it is possible to be slightly out and the car still run ok..ish??????

 

When i listen to it it does sound a little tappity but again not a tained ear!!

 

Occasionly when cold i get a little smoke out of zorst's which i've never had before too!

 

Pretty sure it's not in limp home mode..boost gauge seems to go over all the way when foot down.

Check the maf...I so think its that;)

how did you adjust timing? sorry if stupid question, as i said no expert. thought timing is ecu controlled, so very intrested.i could adjust my timing for performance not worried about smooth idle.(More power vicar?)lol.

Timing can be adjusted by the CAS, would not advise messing with this as you could give yourself a load of problems.

 

Paul

I checked the timing with a strobe light.. clipped it on the black loop of wire goin' to the ptu and the batt and just aimed it at the main pully.. it read about 11/12 degrees so i turned the CAS anti-clockwise bout 3/4mm and it brought it up to bang on 15 degs.. the marker is right next to the pully.

 

Thing is i'm no mechanic or expert so don't do this on my say-so...i did it coz i'm just desperate to illiminate probable causes if ya know what i mean...Although it does seem to have improved the car slightly...tho not really been on a long run yet.

 

Might be worth speakin to paul in the above thread to hear about possible probs.

 

Gonna be swappin my MAF with Chris (300ck) on sunday to test it out...fingers crossed...please let it be that!!

wouldn't recommend messing with cas, reckon you'll end up with prob's under load and on full chat. Anyway moving it will only adjust ignition timing not mechanical timing. As for get cams/crank half a cog out this would cause engine to lock solid and wouldn't turn over never mind run.On the other hand if you got any one pulley or all of them a tooth out it would run, but like i said before it would be really tappey and after time loose all compresion, because would burn the valve seats out. Would think the slight tap you can hear are you tappets quite common so im lead to belive (more the rears). May be an engine oil aditvie (recommend FORTE) in when you do your next oil change may help. would love to come and sort it for you really know how you feel have had to do the same job on mine three time when i didn't even need to do it once, would have had the old lady on the road days a go but these things are sent to test us stick with her she worth it im sure

Just thought i have autodata on computer, it tells how to use diagnostic plug to read fault codes if you don't have equipment to hand using the MIL lamp on dash. Would tell you what codes are in the ecu and why its flashng, hopefully say if MAF sensor was knacked or not. Could email to you i think, (not all that good with comp's, if you can't tell!? lol) let me know if you want it, and codes. lol

Adjusting the CAS to attain 15 degrees is not a problem at all. However the 3 10mm bolts that go through the locator and secure the CAS should in an ideal situation be fairly central or even just a wee bit off centre. If the CAS has had to be turned so far as that the bolts are really one side of the locator, then it points to an issue else where. Also should you now hear any detonation higher up the rev range, it suggests a problem else where.

 

SE Nissan often retarded the CAS back 2-3 degrees when doing boost upgrades to prevent detonation from leaning out higher up the rev range.

 

Nissan mechanic or not, it is NOT uncommon to see Zeds running round with a cambelt a tooth or so out and it will run and start. It's only when the owner reports a loss of certain power it's identified, so do not discount the fact this could be your problem.

Am sure Jeff at Zedworld will confirm he's seen this a number of times.

If you do a wee search, Jeff posted up exactly in very fine detail how to do a cambelt change, you'll see just how important it is to be doubly sure things don't move when fitting the belt and tightening up.

 

You can actually fully disconnect the MAF and the car will start and a knackered one would restrict you to 2.5K revs. However a dirty sensor on the inside of the MAF can cause idle problems and very minor restiction in power, this is why when some peeps swap MAF's with another one, they notice an improvement in their cars power.

 

Personally if i was in your shoes, your approx 90mins from Zedworld, have Jeff do one of his all over assessments of the car, he will pay particular attention to the cambelt area for you to ensure all is as should be.

 

With the aid of the proper conzult system, it will show any current fault codes and past ones too, again Jeff would do this. However in the meantime you can do your own basic diagnostics check using this link below, should take you no more than 10mins. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html

 

Oh and the cat light could be 02 sensor (s) playing up as well.

 

Hope that helps

Smithy

Edited August 2, 200916 yr by Smithy
Added link

That is tip top advice smithy...thanks alot.. i think an afternoon off and a trip to zedworld will sort it once and for all..

 

I can't help thinkin that me belt is out... would a compresion test tell me it's out?

No, the compression test is more about the health of your cylinders.

 

I have a similar problem to yourself and am planning to see Jeff this coming weekend (Jeff - looking forward to your reply!). :-)

 

The car is basically lethargic to 4000 revs (and hesitant) and then suddenly wakes up and becomes a banshee. I'm guessing it's a combination of timing, ecu settings (i.e. could be in standby mode) and air/fuel flow related issues.

 

Based on what I've heard and red, Jeff is the man.

 

Let me know if you get to him before me...I would love to know what happened.

Done the ECU test today and got code 55 which i read to mean all clear..

 

Then did the O2 sensor test and only got a flashing light when i switched it over to test the right hand one!

 

What does this tell me??? and could it be a cause of my probs???

it would suggest you have a failed lambda sensor on that bank and would cause the light to come on. it would effect idle too