Those codes are all pointing at a related issue. A/F ratio falling out of range, heater elements within the O2's out of temp range, EGR sensor or exhaust gas temp falling out of range, etc. There is a few areas to consider...
Was any work recently done to the car that may have triggered this? When was the last time you replaced the O2 sensors? Check the O2 connectors and wiring to make sure one of them hasn't contacted the exhaust or melted. Any exhaust leaks especially before the cats? When was the last time you performed an induction service and cleaned the intake, TBs, IAC, etc? The EGR and IACV love to get carbon buildup over the years and can affect flow, similarly can happen to the vac lines to the factory wastegate control solenoid. You mentioned the car felt like it was still running well, so no idle RPM fumbling, hanging, stumbling, etc? Are you running an aftermarket boost control solenoid or OEM? Sorry for the load of questions, but need a bit more to go off of to help point you in the right direction.
Even though the vehicle has considerable low mileage, it's still 30 years old. If it's kept in a garage it tends to handle the elements better than sitting out in the external environmental conditions and will need more routine maintenance and care regardless if it's being driven or not. (i.e. 60K / 120k maint w/ timing belt)
By
protoj ·
Hi Folks, I am having to change the lower rear shock bushes. I have managed to butcher the old ones out and have got some ES replacements to fit.
There looks to be a metal sleeve left in the arm....I am wondering is this part of the OEM bush and does it need to come out?
Also is it actually possible to press/pull the ES replacement in with the arm still on the car and without a 30tonne hydraulic press!?
I am thinking it might not be possible and have to buy some new OEM ones as they are much softer and should be easier to get in.
Any comments/help/advice is much appreciated....I can't use my Z now cos I gone past the point of no return!:smash::smash:
Thanks Guys.:bow: