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Hi all, before i describe the problem, I'll tell you that I have an intermittent fault with the dett. sensor which I have re-located to ther upper plenum in the usual place, which sometimes doing a diagnostic reads 55, sometimes 34, i don't know if this could be a factor....

 

The car idles perfectly until warmed up fully, then starts to drop to about 600 rpm for 1 sec ish, then up to 1100 for a sec ish, and keeps doing that for about 30 secs, seems to sort itself out, then does the same again about 10 secs later, but revs and drives fine, until i stop and set off again, then hesitates before going, then fine (it's an auto)...

 

Perhaps a vacuum leak somewhere? I would of thought if it was, then it would do the same when cold, but only does it once fully warmed up... If it is, what's the best way to find it? Seeing as there are plenty of vacuum pipes to choose from :-(

 

Any help is appreciated guys, and I'll be fixing the dett. sensor prob soon, gonna use my initiative, as can't afford a new look just yet :-)

 

Cheers...

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I had a boost leak. I thought it was an idle problem with the car. once it was warmed up the car woudl start cutting out on me when changing gear or when sitting at lights. mines is a manual. Check you pipes, recircs to see if you haev any leaks

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Are leaks easy to spot? Maybe a bit of soapy water on the joints or something along those lines?

go to your nearest refrigeration company they should have a leak detector gadget ..

i used one once on another car it found leak alright it went nuts all pipes had been repalced but balance bar o rings were shagged just like the hoses the o rings go flat and loose it if car had a plug change id check there ok if sealant has been used get it all of and get new o rings... i also found in my supra turbo the O2 sensors caused this symptom aswell and it drank the juice....

my z is doing a 55 but it runs poor aswell and ive found poor seals on balance bar so getting new o rings tomorrow..

these cars are a nightmare lol

if i start mine cold it runs great, but if i turn it off then back on wilst still cold it acts as if it has warmed up and the idle sits and about 500rpm and keeps stalling but once its warmed up it runs fine again.

 

it's really annoying when you pop to the shop or petrol station and it keeps stalling when you get back in it.

well pete i guess mine is similar i would not floor it at a roundabout as it would stall i have to ease the throttle .

i am currently changing all plugs and connectors to fuel injectors and coilpacks and putting new o rings in aswell i think i will run it then see how it is as im not getting any errors on the ecu ..if still crap ill change all the vaccum pipes and fuel filter and pipes if that dont work im sellin it LOL so watch this space a beautiful z for under 2000 coming soon if it pisses me off anymore lol

I keep my heaters on.. otherwise it stalls when i come to traffic lights etc...

LMAO, i thought i was the only that kept the aircon on to stop it stalling, really embarassing have a nice car like this and then stalling at the light in front of lots of honeys, oh the shame.

 

Still havent figured what the problem is, can someone recomment a good safe leak detector?

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Haha, your right there mate, ain't the coolest of looks is it.... They hear ya comin, think 'ooh, look at him' then it conks out and they mock you :-)

never used one, I find it annoying as hell when it stalls because the steering goes so hard and the brakes go crap too, and because mines an auto i have to put the ****er back into neutral!

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Exactly what happens to me, so many people with the same problem, and no soloution! I'm cracking on with mine on monday, if I've any luck I'll let ya's know! :-)

Well ive just 'cracked' on with mine, i havent got a clu, fiddled with lots of things with the engine RUNNING, seeing if i can make a difference.

 

I've confirmed the following.

 

Not sparking issue, removing connectors DOES make a difference.

Not Injector Issue, removing connectors DOES make a difference.

 

Cant see any air leaks anywhere, i can hear air flowing, but it could be inside the pipes.

 

Can that AIV Valve at the back rear of the engine, the one with the yellow plug, be removed? The the yellow connector is shot AND i can hear a sort of ticking noise around there.

 

Any more suggestion guys?

 

Maybe we should meet up (all us idling guys)

oh well now ive done it now, took off the idle valve, not the screw, the whole thing. Cleaned it out, put 12v to it to test the solenoid, worked fine.

 

put it back in, car isidling at almost 2k. Ive since adjusted the idle screw to every known setting, NO DIFFERENCE.

 

Stuck at 2k RPM.

 

Any idea?

 

The other cylinder thing with the black connector 'socket', what is it? Looks like a sensor.

Additionally, when i tilt the whole thing (when it was off the car) i couldfeeland hear something heavy inside moving. I tried blowing through the pipe to test if the solenoid was closed or not, at one angle i could blow though it fine, tilting the opposite way it seals it p, cant blow through.

 

Is it duff?

 

For reference its not the solenoid that moves when i tilt it, its the other cylinder thingy.

haha, my god, i am thick. just figured out whats missing, there are 2 springs in this pic, i only have one, something shot out of the cylinder thing when i unscrewed it, was so fast i could see what it was, well now i know, goota o hunting round my car park now! grrr.

My apologies for posting 5 times in a row.

 

See above pic.... Should BOTH click when i apply 12V to them? the FICD Valve does click, but the AAC valve doesnt?

i had idle probs so took my valves off and gave them a good soak and clean they were coaked up put back together and it idles alot better.

 

dan.:)

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