W4SIM

Look where I am and I'll be taking it to him at some point next year, summer time hopefully.

Look under the "Official Traders Forum" section on here, he's under Powerzed. Or simply Google "Powerzed Bristol".

Thanks mate, thats a pretty good deal to be fair given that Reyland Motorsport offer just a pair of brackets for £250. I was thinking of getting it to you in Spring/Summer next year to have a look at and maybe see what kind of a poke we can get out it, was thinking of possibly 400bhp mark, and im guessing this little setup of bigger discs should still provide enough stopping power for the ocassional local blast.

Hello all I want to get soem larger brakes on my TT but dont want to spend too much at the same time. Im not too sure how accurate this is so please correct me if i have the wrong end of the stick here. I know there are kits available with larger calipers and discs, but obviously they cost a fair whack as well. The other (cheaper) option was to upgrade the front calipers to 350z brakes which are apparantly straight bolt on calipers, dont know how true "straight bolt on" is??? The 3rd (cheapest) option was to simply get come brackets to move the existing calipers further up, which then enables bigger discs to go on??? Though im thinking with this upgrade the braking force is still the same so does it work? Just for info, I dont plan on taking the car on the track, this is more because the standard brakes look tiny behind the 18" wheels and I was thinking of going one bigger.

Ouch :pinch:

I wonder if this is someone on here??? https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6341425/Driver-DEFENDS-deliberately-parking-ageing-Nissan-two-spaces.html

Thanks for the input Jeff. My current standard shocks and springs are relatively new as a previous owner got brand new oem units and fitted them about 4 years ago, but only about 5,000 miles in that time. So right now it feels quite comfortable, but for me, it just doesnt sit right. Thats why im trying to find a decent balance between looks and comfort. I had a set of Tein coilovers on a Soarer back in 2003, but they were second hand and i had no idea what the mileage was on them on how the previous car had been driven on them. The dampers were not adjustable, only the height. As has been described above, the ride was pretty crashy, but I was younger and could live with it, and back then you were only ever getting the lowered look OR the comfortable ride, not both. But now I dont want that ride again and im sure technology has moved on to make something half decent that fits both criteria? Other car clubs have recommended HSD, Buddy Club and Tein, but AndrewG on here recommended i ask about MeisterR as apparently they're a popular choice with Zed owners. I did think about lowering springs on their own, but you just never know where its going to sit and once there, its always there.

Also, are the LWB and SWB suspensions swappable, or are the rears likely to be a different fit?

Apparently there's still a lot i need to learn :o I have seen a few different numbers for spring rates, but i wouldn't know which is good or bad for my liking. I have assumed that the lower the number the more bouncy the feel, the higher the number the more stiffer it will be??? Again, same with the top mount situation, I just thought the solid rubber or pillow ball were 2 different types and only one fits depending on the vehicle :confused1:

Thank you very much for the opinions gents, very much appreciated. If its of any relevance, and something which i should have perhaps mentioned in my first post, mine is a 1990 TT Manual - SWB.

As has been suggested by a member on here, I thought I would start a new thread on this subject as I was looking at a set of Tein coilovers. I'm looking for something that has adjustable dampers so as not to break my back. While I understand coilovers in their very nature are stiffer, a down side to going low, I also understand that some are pretty decent now. HSD and Buddy Club have been recommended, but they are a fair bit of money, especially for something that's to be driven once in a blue moon and most likely not at all for the next 6 months. Any opinions are welcome, especially on ride stiffness.

Thanks for the opinions already chaps, but will start a new thread on the coilovers.

I will get a few opinions on the MeisterR kits if I can find any. Thanks

I dont know how to attach pictures on this forum, but I can show you links so you can see what im getting and what it needs to look like. This site is just for reference, im not actually purchasing from these guys in the states. But this is what im getting:- https://conceptzperformance.com/tein-street-advance-z-coilover-kit-nissan-300zx-z32-gsn22-91ss2_p_28835.php This is what I want it to look like:- https://conceptzperformance.com/tein-flex-z-coilover-kit-nissan-300zx-z32-best-seller-back-in-stock-vsn22-c1ss3_p_12100.php And Im hoping its not all of this i need:- https://conceptzperformance.com/tein-street-advance-complete-coilover-bushing-kit-use-w-tein-gsn22-21ss2-coilovers-55322-teinkt-c-universal_p_10069.php?quantity=1

Im actually looking at buying some coilovers, and the only thing I would need for a complete assembly would be the shocker tops. Normally I would have to use my old ones, but I'd much rather replace them with new ones. Not only will it make it easy to replace, but im not too sure about using old shocker tops on new suspension. From what I can gather from your diagrams, the fronts would be part 7 and possible 8 if thats the rubber mount. The rears looks like part 13.

Sorry, but i dont know the part numbers.

As the title suggests really, need some shocker top mounts for all 4 corners. The likes of Euro Car Parts dont do them, but i have not tried Nissan yet, although not holding my breath on them given the age of the car. Found a place in the USA but the shipping is nearly as much as the mounts. Any sources more local to home? Many thanks.

Or does anyon recognise it? Was having a serious think about it? Thanks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300-ZX-FAIRLADY-LWB-3-0-TWIN-TURBO-MANUAL-VG30-DETT-1992-BLACK/401589703087?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140107083358%26meid%3Db022a2651de64274b4531c41ca451f24%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D273417083327%26itm%3D401589703087&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

And so the wait continues . . . . . . . . . :rolleyes:

Silica Gel packets, same as what you get in your new shoes. But get the bigger versions here. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICA-GEL-SACHETS-DESICCANT-SACHETS-POUCHES-1g-5g-10g-25g-50g-100g/182226037951?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=484409576929&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

As has also been pointed out, rust is a very very big issue on these. Although I have not been looking for too long, all the ones I have seen have come up with some kind of a rust history, usually in one of the previous MOT's. Im beginning to think there are no Z32's left in this country that will not have been affected by rust at some point or another, even the imports that are coming to 8 years or over. I wanted to start a fresh thread on this subject, as iv been looking at the "Zed World" website and they seem to be pretty decent in repairing rust and corrosion. And the "Z Centre" seem to sell all the common corroded body parts, so is it really all that bad if its got a bit of rust on it, or had rust in the past. https://zcentre.co.uk/index.php/shop/300zx-z32-body-repair-panels http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzai.html

Gentlemen, a LOT of very good points here and a lot of very good advice as well. Just by looking at the above car from the pictures I would have been very serious about buying it as for me personally, the red calipers etc etc do look decent on a white car. But each to their own I guess. I was also the first to admit that looks can be very deceiving on one of these and waited for you guys to advise me better. As it happens, that car is no longer on ebay, so thats out of the window now anyway. The next question was going to be about wether to repair the HICAS system or delete it, but it seems theres a split on that answer as well. But atleast the option is there to delete it, I dont know if the parts are still available to repair it, or how much that would cost.

Thanks Joely, even im not sure how the tester would know that the rear steering is not working, but it is down as an advisory item back in 2014. The leak from the rear is down as an advisory in 2016. Im sure the rear steering is not part of the MOT test, but maybe the tester was an owner or an enthusiast who knew what to look for. This is the car in question:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-TWIN-TURBO-/163220557620?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 It looks very nice, but as we know looks can be very deceiving with these cars. Its also a good 5 hour drive away so not exactly something i can just pop over and have a look at. Any Z specialists on the south coast? Thanks

Hello Looking at buying a Z, but as i odnt know much about them I thought I would ask questions about things I dont understand before i go and look at it. I know rust is a massive issue, and just about all the ones iv seen have some form of rust or another on them, but another recurring theme seems to be the rear steering not working. Firstly, am i right in assuming that the rear steering is the HICAS system? I've just seen a Z for sale, but on previous MOT's its been noted that the rear steering does not work (although the rear wheels are held in a substantially straight line and this not affect steering). Its also been noted on another MOT of the same car that the "Power steering component(s) has slight seepage from a seal rear steering". Looking around on the forum here it seems that some people are getting rid of the rear steering (Deleting). This leads me to 2 conclusions:- 1. It doesn't affect the car too much if the rear steering is not working, the car can still be driven. 2. Its more hassle to repair/replace parts of the system to make it work rather than getting rid of it altogether. Would this be about right? Should i be massively worried about this aspect in car im looking at purchasing? And how do i go about deleting this system? Thanks

Thanks for the input Spiff, I would like to think they are reliable as the old Nissans generally were. I've seen one or two more, for what i think is a decent price, but they've been parked up for a while and when i do a MOT History check its almost always a fail on rust at some point. Like this one which failed on rust on various points in the last few years but seems to be fine this time round, does that make sense? http://www.blackheathmotorgroup.co.uk/used-cars/nissan-300-zx-3-0-v6-twin-turbo-targa-top-201807148441058